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-   3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) (https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/)
-   -   Chassis Electrical Simplification (https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/chassis-electrical-simplification-327837/)

the_glass_man Jun 11, 2006 08:42 PM


Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Looks like fun. Personally I enjoy having a running/driving/boosting FD ;)

It runs good boss. Don't you worry! :D

dubulup Jun 11, 2006 08:49 PM

I installed a painless kit, however I epoxy'd the relay blocks and battery fuse block together and rewired to do what I wanted it to do.

halfway done this page of the thread and a video using pop-ups on the next page.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...4&page=6&pp=15

the_glass_man Jun 11, 2006 09:34 PM


Originally Posted by dubulup
I installed a painless kit, however I epoxy'd the relay blocks and battery fuse block together and rewired to do what I wanted it to do.

halfway done this page of the thread and a video using pop-ups on the next page.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...4&page=6&pp=15

Did you use the 18 circuit kit? Any closer shots of your schematic? You're my inspiration!

dubulup Jun 11, 2006 11:27 PM

yes, the 18 circuit. But I didn't like how the entire fuse block was protected by a 50AMP fuse. So, I rewired the back...to the stock "battery" fuse block. This way I was able to fuse sections of the block. I did this to insure the water pump and other life lines weren't in danger of something else blowing the circuit. Also the tail/park lamps weren't fused, I thought that was weird...I just rewired something I wasn't using, I believe it was power antenna.

Sorry, no more close ups...just follow the WSM, and you can build you own. If you want me to look over it, email me a copy and I'll give my input.

Oh, and you'll be able to use your PFC...if you chose this route.

I made the harness maintainable, which was probably the hardest part. I have stock connectors from the stock harness, connecting the painless kit to the rear harness (brakes, AMP, fuel pump controller, tails, turns, etc), and to the front harness (turns, parks, actuators, head, water pump, fans, etc). This is important so you don't have to cut any wires to remove again (this car was going to full paint again) . I had to make sure the connectors 1) would fit thru any hole needed to run, and 2) had enough pins to run the signals required.

I used larger MSD style connectors to run the power to the engine bay to the big loads like headlight actuators, water pump, and fans. I ran all power down the drivers side and all signals down the passenger side. It was a really sick project, where I'd wake up in the middle of the night wondering about the BR/W wire and how I was going to make such and such operate.

I hope I didn't talk you out of this, your car already looks gutted, and its not as hard as I probably described it...I did enjoy the project. Probably dropped 10lbs in wires. Everything is very very slim and streamlined...


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