well i guess my last thread didnt work

guys i know, ive searched and read up and switched setups like a million times and i just cant get anything to help. I purchased a Turbo XS high performance boost controller

http://www.boostcontroller.com/index...6category%3D26

and a Joe P manual boost controller

http://www.boostcontroller.com/index...26category%3D4

to work as my wastegate controller and pre-spool controller as per damian's write-up.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...+boost+control

i just cannot seem to keep boost below stock levels.
I currently have a dp, racing beat dual catback, and apex'i intake. I installed the controllers because i was going to install the intakes and knew that boost spikes would follow.

I have set up directly as shown on damians diagram with both bypassing the stock solenoids and running the lines to them and also capping both lines coming out of the actuators for the wastegate and prespool.

Stock pills were also kept in the lines running to the solenoids from the actuators.

I have been trying the setups with the turbo xs on the wastegate line and the Joe P controller on the pre-spool line, both are completely set to the lowest setting. The turbo xs controller on both the fine adj and coarse adj ***** and the Joe P to the point where one more turn would unscrew the valve.

Any and all help is appreciated. TIA

Ted

 

my boost was ranging from 7psi on the primary with the 2ndary at 14+ psi with one setup and then 11.5psi with a spike and 2ndary at 14+

i never got on it full throttle with any setups becuz the boost seemed like it would keep rising and i dont want a blown motor. Any suggestions or diff setups. I dotn want to get an electronic because ive already shelled out the oney for these Manual controllers.

Thanks

 

Port the wastegate/ or restrict the exhaust

 

Ok.. Both the Turboxs and the Joe P MBC are "bleed" type controllers. Meaning they bleed pressure at the controllers, so to use these you need to cap the lines from the actuators to the solenoids and make sure the lines from the turbos to the actuators are clear and as short as possable. Or do what I did.. Put the stock pill back in the stock location for the pre-control, hook the pre-control solenoid back up, plug the bleed hole in the Joe P MBC (use the light spring) install the MBC inbetween the turbo and the wastegate actuator. bypass the wastegate solenoid as in damians diagram but put the waste gate pill in the bypass line. Open the MBC untill you can just hear the ball rattle when you shake it. Now drive it and watch the boost carefully! you should have a 10 8 7 pattern. you can slowly turn the MBC in to increase the secondary boost to 10lbs.. Be carefull!!

 

gadd thanks alot man, ill try that, so with your suggestion i am only going to use 1 of the controllers...correct this if im wrong.

turbo-------Joe P MBC (plugged bleed hole)------wastegate actuator--------(bypassed solenoid)
(but install pill in the line)
(that originally went to the)
(solenoid)

turbo-------stock pill--------------pre-spool actuator------------stock solenoid


hopefully that turns out right.....also the turbos already have a ported wastegate( bought from a member that already had it done) but with only a dp and catback it didnt seem necessary and even with an intake too does boost creep really show up, i know spikes should but i still have a stock cat and thought boost creep only became an issue with a high-flow cat or a MP.

But i will try the setup suggested by Gadd and will report back. Thanks again man for your time.

 

but there arent supposed to be any capped lines from the actuators in the setup you suggested Gadd, correct?

 

Which of damians diagrams did you follow? If I remember correctly a couple threads into his post he posted an alternate setup that worked better and completely bypassed the solenoids. This works for me with intake, dp, and catback, no spiking, no creeping, perfect 10-8-10 boost pattern.

turbo ------- Joe P MBC ------ wastegate actuator ----- cap other nipple off actuator

turbo ------- Joe P MBC ------ pre-spool actuator ----- cap other nipple off actuator

This removes the pills and solenoids from the equation entirely so it ends up nice and simple. I actually tuned my mbc's without the downpipe, then installed the downpipe and didn't have to re-tune the mbc's at all to keep 10-8-10.

 

JAYK,

I did mine the same except for home-made boost controllers - great results!

 

wow. no offense, but i can't believe someone would spend that much money on a manual boost controller. you can buy a used profec for about another $50 and have reliable boost that you can control from within the cockpit and don't have to readjust when the weather gets cooler.

Now what do you mean when you said:
"Stock pills were also kept in the lines running to the solenoids from the actuators."

The stock pills are normally in the 2 short lines not going up to the solenoids.

 

Personally I like the home-made or joep controllers because of their simplicity, I don't think I'd want lines running back and forth to the cabin, not to mention yet another awkward gizmo in the cabin. Although I do agree about the more expensive mbc's, I couldn't justify buying a hallman priced unit.

In any case, like DaveW said, the cheapo mbc's are easy to install and give great results! The weather has swung from 10 degrees to 70 degrees here over the past couple months, plus I've installed a downpipe, and I haven't had to adjust anything under the hood.