I tried looking and no clear answers =\

Does the optima redtop batteries fit the rear bins w/o cutting. Theres a optima 6v battery would that work? its 3" x 10", except i dunno where to get these

will Group 51 batteries work without cutting the bin?

the guy at autozone said the duralast gold 51r is a good cheap battery i can probably use since it has 500 CCA and its pretty narrow he says.

So any info will be helpful thanks. and i know the oddesey batteries will work but im on a budget and i need it soon so i cant order it online. and everywhere i call is $135+ Im looking to spend anywhere from $60-110 on the battery

 

The HAWK batteries that are used in conjunction with TurboJeff's battery tray's will fit fine.

 

isnt hawk odessey?

 

Yeah, but being on a budget and doing something right isn't always a good idea. The hawk battery has been tested in starting in FD's and are great. Why spend the money on a cheaper battery when you may have to get another battery down the road to a problem that may be associated with it. I'm not saying other batteries will work, just trying to shed some light on your project.

 

ah i need to explain.

as to why spend money on a cheaper battery that might cause problems down the road is causae i need the battery to get my car running because i have to drive to hot import nights because im showing next weekend. So i need a battery i can drop in there and hook it up and go. When i have more time after id probably get a nice battery and make a bracket for it and everything. And since i still have to do get a downpipe made i really dont have the funds for a nice hawk battery.

 

So just seat it behind the passenger seat and becareful.

 

haha i already ran the wires. but i heard the westco miata battery fits with no cutting. i think im going to get that. and that should work.

 

measure the bottom of the bin (smallest dimension) and then just go battery shopping. Goodluck.

 

thanks

 

Go with the 51r in autozones middle grade, not the gold. I used to work for autozone, go with the middle grade.

The hawker batteries are nice but of all the folks that own one were I live, we all go through one about every 18 months. Other folks have had better reults than us. It depends on your driving. If you go to the hawker site, they will tell you to run the car for 20-40 minutes after a start or you will slowly kill the battery. When you only live 10 miles from work, you can see why we kill batteries. Anyway...something to think about.

http://www.odysseyfactory.com/shortlife.htm

 

Hmm...will the 51 r fit with no cutting?

does the westco one really fit with no cutting?

 

BTW, in your first post you mentioned a "6v" battery. If that's 6 volts, it bigtime won't work - our cars use 12 volt batteries.

I'd go with a 51r, especially if you're planning on getting a different battery setup at some point. You can get one cheap from most any local parts store - no sense spending a bunch of money or mail-ordering a battery if you're not using it for a permanent setup.

Dale

 

Not to hijack the thread, but I'm confused by "no cutting". Is the intent to just place the battery in a bin and let it bang around in there?

I'm relocating an Odyssey 680 to my bins and have been wrestling with the issue of whether I really want to cut the rectangle out of the bottom of the bin so that I can securely mount the battery to the floor.

I'll be taking mine to the track (DE only) so my plan has been to cut the rectangle then secure the battery to the floor with a couple long threaded rods and plates. Is this a reasonable approach? I don't need to pass specific SCCA tech inspections, but do need to pass a general DE tech inspection.

 

The Westco battry is glassmat. You will have to find out if that is sealed.

Autozone, costco, etc ...you want to breath that stuff, risk explosion, you didn't read all the threads.

Battery must be tied down, which does not mean locking the passenger bin.

Battery must be "sealed" or it must be boxed and vented to the outside.

Jeff's battery tray is made for the 51R, not Hawk. Since the bin cruves at one end, there is cutting needed. Although just wedging in one corner isn't realy tied down. You can cut the bottom of the bin and screw or weld down a tray. You also need that extra inch for the posts to clear the bin lid or it won't close.

Summit battery tray

 

Dale, I'm glad you said that.. I was about to flame this guy... Its scary!! People owning 3rd gen and don't know the basics..

I don't know a single production car that use 6V battery... Not alone our cars..

To answer your question, Most full size batteries, or any optima batteries (which I recommend optima since its a seal battery and could be mounted inside your car) you will have to cut the bottom of the bin.. Maybe with 51R you don't.. But you would have to take the bin out in order to install it correctly, so, why not cut it when you have it out.

Also, make sure to put a fuse on the positive near the terminal.. So, for some reason you short out, the fuse will cut the power instead of BAD stuff happening to your car..

Make sure to use lowest guage wires possible.. I don't recommend using anything higher than 4G. Also, instead of drilling a hole in the firewall, you could take the fender out and go thru a pre-made hole by the door and the fender. This will bring the wire inside the car, and straight back to the bins.

Don't short cut any steps.. This wire is quite important! Also, make sure to wrap the wires where you think it might rub over time and expose..

 

Quick tip on the wire... after shopping around and being less than excited about the extremely stiff and expensive 2G wire they sell at Home Depot etc, I thought of an extra set of unused jumper cables I had. I split the wires, removed the clamps, and have ended up with a couple lengths of very nice quality, flexible, heavy gauge wire.

Of course the quality of jumper cables can vary significantly...

 

Actually if you go to a welding supply store you can get 2 gauge wire for a dollar a foot. I got 18 feet just to be safe, so thats $18...I don't know how poor you are, but $18 for that much 2 gauge wire isn't too much, and it's very flexible as well as shielded. I used a 200 amp circuit breaker on my install.

 

Alrighty i ran 2g wire to the back. and i have 2 grounds going to the back of the driver side chair. So the 51R does require cutting....but only a little bit? like on the corner where it curves in?

and how do i run a fuse or circuit breaker, and how much is it usually and where can i get it from?

Thanks for all the helpful info guys.

 

I'm not sure about the battery, but you should put the fuse no more then 6 to 12 inches away from the battery on the power cable. It's pretty self explanitory, you put a ring terminal on one side that goes to the battery and you put another ring terminal on the other side that goes to the front of the car.
Edit: the breaker cost me $30



thats the one i'm using, only 200 amp...not 140



Edit again:

if you want the DOs and DON'Ts of a battery relocation read this thread
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=relocation

 

So the 51R does require cutting....but only a little bit? like on the corner where it curves in?

 

I have my Optima 51R temporarily droped in the bin, just to drive it like you want. You can't close the lid, but it does stay in without moving about. I have the 150amp stinger curcuit braker from Darvex.com and they are on ebay also. I had problems getting a good ground. The car would not start until I solved that.