Batter Relocation questions
1) Should I have an worries about using a sealed lead acid unit (for interior usage)?
2) Almost all the options require the loss of an entire cargo bin, right? 3) What would you recommend for cutting the bin, that looks like thick plastic? 4) Are there any noice issues? I removed the existing bins, and see the insulation underneath, I guess I will just mount the battery tray on top of that... 5) The kit I have, a Petitt unit, requires drilling for mounting bolts, then applying nuts on the bottom. The fuel line appears to run behind the driver side bin, right? |
# 1=no #2 right #3=remove bin cut with jig saw or box knife or die grinder-cut off wheel ,not that hard # 4 just think it out do not make stupid mistakes. # 5 =the fuel lines are on the drivers side. the Petitt kit is a wast of money, use bigger and better wire and make your own battery tray -hold down.better and cheeper.
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#1 why dont you go with a dry battery if you already are gonna have to buy a new one?
#2 no you dont need to cut up the box, you can always relocate it to the rear hatch, right behind the removable divider thing, under the rear strut tower bar. #3 rotozip #4 i have no idea #5 yep, just like what duboisr said |
I would think that a dry cell would be the best choice(It's what I have).
The bin can be cut with a Dremel or a small hand saw(jig saw type blade). I mounted my batttery in the passenger side bin after I cut out the bottom of the bin. No wires or fuel lines there. Very easy to drill through about 1/4" metal there. I have had no increased noise but I have an R1(supposedly has less insulation) |
Dremel, of course. I have one, but I usually don't think about it....
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So, I take it that the emission of toxic fumes from a lead acid battery is a myth? Or is it just such a small concentration that it ends up being ppm or ppb?
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I vented mine to the outsided with some small holes just above the battery. Cut out the bin with a dremel tool and fiberglass disk. The cut off blades are too fragile and hang up on the thick plastic. I will try and get some pics soon.
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U can also place the battery in the rear hatch area. I can take a pic and post it later if you like.
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Originally posted by blackscorpio U can also place the battery in the rear hatch area. I can take a pic and post it later if you like. |
Most competition sanctioning bodies (and US highway safety regulations)don't allow any type of wet cell battery in the passenger compartment, unless it is in a Sealed enclosure that is vented to the outside of the vehicle. Some exempt OPTIMA type batteries from this requirement. so in general if you choose any type of wet cell for instalation inside the pass compartment put it in a Marine type sealed box and add a vent hose to the outside, the vent should be at least 1/2" ID.
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Originally posted by YayeR please do. |
Duboisr - Did you have the Pettit battery kit? I was looking at it in theri catalog and liked it. M2 does not have a pic of theirs (maybe the same).
Black Scorpio Battery enhanced pic https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=1151374 |
NO I do not . One of Garfinkle s customers form Ga had it for Gar to install with many other things. The wire is in his tool box to this day. He used larger fine wire cable and better ends, ect . He also runs several ground cables , this is very important.
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Originally posted by redrotorR1 So, I take it that the emission of toxic fumes from a lead acid battery is a myth? Or is it just such a small concentration that it ends up being ppm or ppb? I believe it's hydrogen gas(I should know this since I was a chem major). You do not want hydrogen gas accumulating in your passenger compartment. :devil: But it is a small amount. |
hydrogen gas is good. It makes the car lighter. If it wasnt good they wouldnt have used them in the zeplins.
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zeplins....like the HINDENBURG?!!!
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Mr Stock is right - Lead Acid batteries vent Hydrogen during their charge cycle - Hydrogen in certain concentrations is HIGHLY EXPLOSIVE (something like 3x the energy per pound than Gasoline) It is the fuel that sent man to the MOON and powers the Space Shuttle's Main engines
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My input:
http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/batrelo.htm A note though...my install was a bit more complex due to the roll bar. And some anecdotal responses to the originators questions. - do NOT use a wet cell battery in the car because 1)hydrogen generation and 2)if you are every in a rollover and the battery punctures or ruptures you're gonna get battery acid everywhere including possibly on you! - I used a dremel for cutting the bin plastic - fuel lines are on the drivers side. I placed my battery in the pax bin to better offset the drivers weight - rear hatch is ok but it places the battery kinda high IMO. Best to keep the center of gravity as low as possible. FWIW Regards, Crispy |
Originally posted by blackscorpio Here ya go. |
Originally posted by YayeR shit.. thats where my subs are :doh: |
Originally posted by blackscorpio Here ya go. |
OK OK OK.
I sent the Pettit kit back to them. I want to go with an Optima or other dry cell in a setup like BlackScorpios. That way I can keep both bins, and the rear cargo area is so freaking useless anyways. BlackScorpio, what was your equipment breakdown, how did you secure the battery, and I assume you went along the driver side doorsill to get to the firewall? |
Originally posted by 7-sins Blacksorpio, did you make that kit yourself? I like that setup but how is the battery bolted down? |
It looks like both positive and negative terminals are exposed, so you can't take the chance of having anything metallic, or containing liquids which might spill in your trunk :)
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Originally posted by PVerdieck It looks like both positive and negative terminals are exposed, so you can't take the chance of having anything metallic, or containing liquids which might spill in your trunk :) |
Does someone make a type 51 battery that is dry (or gel)?
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this guy never got enough credit. One of the few links I saved during the quest to get my 7
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...my+own+battery |
At the drag strip recently, one car from our group was not allowed to run because he did not have an emergency cut-off switch mounted outside the car. This was only a requirement since the battery had been relocated to inside the car. I would assume that this is a fairly common requirement at drag strips and road racing tracks. Road racing tracks usually require that the battery is bolted down to prevent it from flying around and killing someone in an accident and that the positive terminal has a cover on it to prevent shorts.
Put it in the passenger bin. It keeps the CG low, improves the weight distribution, and reduces the polar moment of inertia. -Max |
Put it in the passenger bin. It keeps the CG low, improves the weight distribution, and reduces the polar moment of inertia. :) Crispy |
is the wiring for the M2 kit good?
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by the sounds of it we can relocate the battery to the bins and not have to worry about putitng a kill switch. where else if anywhere can we mount the battery so we dont have to put a kill switch. i think its GAY and puts a huge hole in my car. if miatas have them in their trunks and dont need a kill switch then why cant we. is it cause they have already been certified by the DOT
kris |
The trunk isn't the passenger compartment.
OK. I got a Hawker Odyssey because I didn't want to lose bin utility, and was going to just miniaturize. Since then I have change my mind yet again and will switch to Optima in passenger bin. I think 100 for the billet aluminum hold downs sounds way too high... |
what is a reasonable price for a shop to charge to relocate the battery to the pass bin. plus the price of a dry cell.
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OK. I went with a Odyssey PC-680, and found reasonably priced hold downs for it...
Ordered battery from here: http://www.batterymart.com/battery.mv?p=ODY-PC680 found tray here: http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/cat....cfm?focus=166 Since this is a small battery (3 1/16 x 7 x 6 5/8), it brings up a couple of possibilities 1) mounting between bin and frame 2) mount in part of bin, leaving some accessible for storage |
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