Hey guys,
I'm trying to upgrade my axles and after getting some help I got the bar out of one but the other one is stuck. I took it to a shop that specializes in drive-trans and they soaked in in whatever they soak it in and tried to get the bar out with no luck. So I asked them to remove the cv joint from the spindle (as this didn't want to release either). They said they put 20,000 lbs of force and it and not a budge.
So as soon as I can I'm going to pick it up from them and my plan is to get 5 gal of wd-40 and a bucket I can place the assembly in and let it soak for a week and try to get the bar out again. I noticed the stock bar has a snap ring on top to keep it from going to far in to the cv joint, I'm going to get that off and try to bang the bar in some to get the inside snap ring to release.
If you guys have a better idea please let me know. The car has been sitting for a while so I'm sure its kinda rusty in there.

 

My axles were frozen in the spindles as well. I soaked them in bp blaster for about a day. I had 32 tons and a acetylene torch on them before it came apart. Went off like a gun shot. I had to replace both wheel bearings after because the heat transfer fried the seals in them. Good luck!

 

That's what I'm trying to avoid is replacing the bearings. But seriously 32 tons! its crazy how much rust can hold lol.

 

No matter what, IMO if you are putting 10tons of lateral force on a bearing it should be replaced. Its integrity has already been compromised. Heat them up dunk in water and press out.

Dont be cheap, buy new bearings and replace them.

 

Ok but, what if I mess up the cv joint? Where can I buy a new one at? I'd prefer to not buy all new axles if I can get the parts separately. I've scoured the net and haven't gotten anything useful I just keep getting the boots. I haven't called Ray yet I'm sure he can get them but probably only the whole axle.

 

if you need axles and spindles i have used ones for sale

 

Use PB Blaster, WD40 is not a penetrating oil.

-Geoff

 

This stuff is much better than PB blaster. But it is more expensive

 

i am doing this right now and cant get the rear driver side off the spindle. PB blasted for 5 days and used a puller, no dice. Got a torch today and heated it up for about 10 mins each time didn't move a millimeter. Any other solutions? Im seriously thinking about taking out the whole drive shaft,hub,axle and replacing it completely. Feel completely defeated today.

 

Oxy acetylene torch and a steel sledge hammer to ring it off with the whole spindle on a work bench clamped down. I left the nut threaded on to avoid mushrooming it.

 

Kind of like ringing the stock flywheel off, but Much harder.

 

air hammer? (if you have a compressor that is) Works everytime =) **knock on woods**

-AzEKnightz

 

Heated it up real good today and took a sledge hammer to it. No luck. Axle nut is pretty bent up now. I think my only solution is to replace the whole assembly. Havent tried the air hammer yet but right now I am pretty doubtful.

 

Axle nuts have to be replaced anyways. I took it to a machine shop and they beat the hell out of it for 20 min and it finally came out. Is yours still on the car? If so I would highly recommend removing the entire spindle with the axle and put it on a bench.

 

Yes its still on the car. I think I'll try that next. Thanks for the help.

 

Having the same problem with the driver side axle.

Took it off the car and put it in my little 12 ton press - didn't budge.

Just took it to a shop where we used a 40 ton press and acetylene torch - still didn't budge.

This is not from a rusty car, don't know why the corrosion on this axle would be so hard to break free.

Got some dry ice, going set that on the axle for awhile and then whack it a few times with a big hammer,

Any other ideas?

 

If using a 40ton and it didnt budge. Get a new knuckle and be over with. Not worth the extra headache.

-AzEKnightz

 

Knuckle + Spindle + Bearing + Axle