wheel bearings
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,568
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From: CA
wheel bearings
so i guess most of you know there's a sale going on from RAY and hes got a deal for the front bearing with hub
its priced at 130. my question is is it worth spending that to get oem ? because theres a few aftermarket brands that goes a little cheaper for the same unit. however this here is a really good price for OEM. so im kind of curious on whats every ones input
THANKS!!
its priced at 130. my question is is it worth spending that to get oem ? because theres a few aftermarket brands that goes a little cheaper for the same unit. however this here is a really good price for OEM. so im kind of curious on whats every ones input
THANKS!!
I would go with OEM as well. I recently bought these and re-did my front wheel bearings. We also sell these for $120+shipping new. I'd also recommend replacing the wheel bearing nut and cap cover as they are a few bucks.
Another +1 on OEM - Based on the lack of performance and durability of the non-OEM miata wheel bearings / hubs as experienced in Spec Miata racing and track days.
The same applies to brake caliper rebuild kits, master cylinders, clutch master/slave cylinders
The same applies to brake caliper rebuild kits, master cylinders, clutch master/slave cylinders
Aftermarket FD bearings are usually Timken in the front and Koyo in the rear. Both are considered quality manufacturers
There are various available for the Miata and I assume the FD. The ones from the local auto parts stores are often not high quality. The ones that Mazda corp sources for Mazda dealers or through Mazda Motorsports are brand name and made of high quality components all around. Timken and Koyo are indeed quality manufacturers.
I've heard that while the package may say TIMKEN, from fine print and the contents you might discover they've been manufactured by one of their 'suppliers'...to their specifications of course.
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The nice thing about aftermarket options, for the front bearing assembly, is that is slips off of the spindle. This makes replacement easy, even if they have been on the car since new. I bought Timken front and rear bearings. The were marked "made in japan" and that's good enough for me. This is one of those times where I'd rarely say that it doesn't make a difference, but that's an opinion and that's what the OP is looking for.
As stated before, it's advisable to replace the axle nuts when replacing these components. As far as the rear bearing, I can share my experience (also noted in my build thread): If you must change out the rear bearings, I suggest the following: 1. Pop the shafts out of the differential and remove the whole knuckle/shaft assembly. You may want to believe you can get the knuckle off of the shaft with is still attached to one of the control arms, but this is rarely the case. Anyone whose done this will agree. 2. If you have a press, and can chuck this thing up right, do it. Otherwise, bring it to a specialty shop and pay the experts. While it's there, there's no shame in paying them to press the new wheel bearings into the knuckles. I did this, and I have no regrets. Wasn't that much, either. 3. When reinstalling the rear knuckles and shafts, use anti-seize.
As stated before, it's advisable to replace the axle nuts when replacing these components. As far as the rear bearing, I can share my experience (also noted in my build thread): If you must change out the rear bearings, I suggest the following: 1. Pop the shafts out of the differential and remove the whole knuckle/shaft assembly. You may want to believe you can get the knuckle off of the shaft with is still attached to one of the control arms, but this is rarely the case. Anyone whose done this will agree. 2. If you have a press, and can chuck this thing up right, do it. Otherwise, bring it to a specialty shop and pay the experts. While it's there, there's no shame in paying them to press the new wheel bearings into the knuckles. I did this, and I have no regrets. Wasn't that much, either. 3. When reinstalling the rear knuckles and shafts, use anti-seize.
I have had good luck with timken. I actually purchased front Timken wheel bearings and hubs for my rx7. I have used Timken on all my cars and haven't had a problem.
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for the rear of the FD, koyo is the OEM. not sure about the front, its probably either a Koyo, or NSK.
Yep. There was a rash of crappy name brand bearings / hubs in the Spec Miata world some time ago. The box said whatever the top brand name was (I forget) but they failed quickly. Which is why you need to be careful about where you buy them. It is more reliable to get them from a known good source (such as Ray or Mazda Motorsports) that has the known good brand with the proper internal pieces.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,568
Likes: 35
From: CA
thanks guys for all the good input !!
I decided to go with OEM on this purchase since the sale price is at a decent discounted price for somone like me that's not a Mazdamotorsports member . however in the future when the oem price gose back up to normal I'll be buying the timken
I decided to go with OEM on this purchase since the sale price is at a decent discounted price for somone like me that's not a Mazdamotorsports member . however in the future when the oem price gose back up to normal I'll be buying the timken
I'm running TIMKEN hubs and Koyo wheel bearings.
On the TIMKENs, initial quality is excellent, the box / hub says "MADE IN USA" but the bearings are stamped "MADE IN JAPAN" right on the faces.
Only have about 50 miles on them so far, but no complaints thus far.

On the TIMKENs, initial quality is excellent, the box / hub says "MADE IN USA" but the bearings are stamped "MADE IN JAPAN" right on the faces.
Only have about 50 miles on them so far, but no complaints thus far.








