M2 Medium IC installation questions
Looking to install a M2 medium IC I picked up after talking with Rich and Heath from Sakebomb garage. This is to address high IATs (near 70C during dyno tuning!).
I have installed Sakebomb's AEM water meth kit (running only distilled water) but still noticed my IATs creeping up to just over 60C after some spirited driving and then stopping at a light. The car has the stock intake system and BNR Stage 3 turbos installed. I am afraid that on a track day, hard driving would heat soak the stock IC and IATs will come up to unsafe levels. M2's no longer around but from pictures of other setups and forum searches, looks like I'll have to do the following for the installation of the medium IC: .
Here is the picture of the IC pipe I have currently. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1dda2bc12.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f054d2f61.jpeg |
Did some more searching and found some answers:
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I think you might want to just look for an M2 intake. They come up for sale now and then. Not personally familiar with the M2 but looking at the crossover section it doesn’t look like it’ll work around an air pump. To make it fit the efini Y why not cut the flange off the efini crossover and have it re-welded to your crossover...if/when it fits the air pump.
How much boost do you plan on running with the BNR’s? |
Originally Posted by zli944
(Post 12382350)
Did some more searching and found some answers:
I was not OK with just laying the IC on the crossmember. I bought a strip of 1"x1/8" 3003 Aluminum, mocked up & bent some tabs from the IC sides to the x-member and paid a fabricator friend to weld the mounting tabs on. You can see the DS tab in the image below. The IC bolts directly to the x-member with M6 screws/nuts. I made a small bracket to hold the duct in place using the original IC mount holes. Used M6 hardware with O-rings so it didn't crack the FG duct when tightened. I tried to make mine work with the air pump, but eventually ditched it. I am sure it can be done, but I was making/flaring my own pipes out of bends I bought online and ran out of patience/time/material. The problem with the efini pipe is that the flange is too high. Once you bolt another flange/nipple onto it you have no room for a silicone elbow. If you cut off the y pipe flange and just welded the outlet nipple in place of the flange it could work. I don't think it's worth the trouble for "moar flow". The M2 intake fits OK. The aluminum does heat soak from the radiator so I am having to add that gold thermal barrier to it over the winter. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...77f9b4258.jpeg |
@Sgtblue
Thanks for the feedback. Regarding the intake, I ended up getting the HKS RS. It seems like it offers the best clearances in terms of space. I just got tuned at Sakebomb and should be getting around 12 PSI (270 bhp). It's a safe number that my current setup can support (stock port, fuel pump, injectors). I had considered cutting up the crossover tube as a last resort since it would be irreversible, I may not have another choice because looking at the Y-pipe outlet, the studs aren't evened up on either side and look to be a little bit offset. |
@alexdimen
Thanks for the advice with the install. If convenient, could you provide more pictures of your battery setup? What brand is the battery and how is the positive terminal with fuseblock mounted? Are you using a bracket? I was resigned to having to relocate my battery to my storage bins in the rear but would love to keep it in the engine bay like you have.
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Here is my setup using a custom mounted and ducted large SMIC setup. I did have to relocate my battery to my trunk. I'm running an optima redtop and I have found no issues with it there. The piping is 2.75" from outlet to elbow. I mocked it up a bit too exact and didn't leave enough room to assemble / dissemble as easy as I'd like. The mounting for the core seems VERY solid and I have noticed no movement or rubbing since I installed it. I fabricated a plate with angled brackets to push the bottom of the IC towards the engine, welded standoffs to the bottom of the IC and used rubber isolators between the two. The top section of the duct acts as a bracket itself, bolting just in front of the radiator where it draws fresh air. That setup, coupled with the M2 box rarely sees cruising intake temps 10° above ambient and rarely 20° above when driving hard.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e136028792.jpg |
congrats on a nice choice re your IC. it will be worth the fixturing needed. attempting to make power thru the stock IC is a path to getting to know an engine builder too well. you are lucky your motor is O K after making 140/158 F IATs. the medium ASP is an excellent choice for 300-400 power levels. a big thumbs up to alexdimen and DPeanut.
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Originally Posted by zli944
(Post 12382076)
Apparently, there were originally two versions of the IC piping (turbo to IC), one that that will fit the air pump. Is the one picture below the one that will fit the air pump? I've tried mocking it up and it seems to fit but again, I suppose it may depend on how I connect to the Y-pipe.
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TurboJeff made that pipe if memory serves, Kevin was all about removing emissions and going non-sequential.
Those pipes are probably hard to come by at this point. Dale |
Originally Posted by DaleClark
(Post 12387912)
TurboJeff made that pipe if memory serves, Kevin was all about removing emissions and going non-sequential.
Those pipes are probably hard to come by at this point. Dale |
M2 may be my favorite early aftermarket parts company. The hood they designed with their larger intercooler may be the best setup ever. Air came into and through the IC and was then forced up and out of the matching hood vents.
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