i dont think it matters UNLESS the restriction is built in to the nipple outlets there, supposedly the later cars have the restriction there and no pills...mine is a 95 and it had pills, so I can't confirm that.... but your right, it should not matter. both of those nipoples see the same pressure

by the way, i though i would upadate where I am on this thread, I installed a power FC a few days ago so I went back to the stock solenoid boost controll setup to test the boost control of the PFC.... then after dooing a pressure test on the 2ndary I noticed it was NOT getting pre-spooled so after I debug that I will see if it fixes the 10-5-10 pattern I am seeing with the PFC.

Here's an update for those of you who were looking at a slightly cheaper way to do Damian's setup. I'm using the JoeP XZ controller with a non-standard lighter spring provided by Joe himself (his web site is at

http://www.joepmbc.com/

and he is a former FD owner). His controllers, while not quite as pretty as the Hallmans, seem to be constructed very well, require no tools to adjust (if you get the newest, the XZ) and I would imagine he will make the lighter spring an available option.

I don't think the spring is quite as light as the Hallman that Damian used, which was why my setup wasn't working when connected as he originally had it. I believe the additional volume required to fill up the lines aft of the wastegate/precontrol actuators allowed the boost to build higher than I wanted it even with the MBC adjusted to the lowest setting. However, when I capped off the wastegate actuator vent the lowest setting gives me a nice friendly 8 psi. I now have to reconnect the precontrol MBC because I didn't figure this out until I had already taken it out of the loop :-(

I'll post more when I have it, but so far this looks like a nice alternative implementation for about 1/2 the price.

Once again I'd like to thank Damian for starting this thread and helping out with good advice, and Joe P for working with me on the alternate spring. And no thanks to Mazda for making those damned lines and nipples so hard to reach! :-)

jds

Ok, just so i am on the same page, when you talk abou the pills. you are talking about the stock brass 'beads' that are inside the lines, as opposed to plasic ones that are in-line, such as by the intake/solinoids.

I actually am not sure what "in-line" plastic things you're referring to, but yes...these are the flow restricting things inside the lines leading from the turbos to the inlet side of the wastegate and precontrol actuators....unless you have the '95 turbos (well, SOME of the '95 turbos) which have the restriction built into the nipples on the turbos.

jds

great info bureau_c....

so when you look for the boost pattern should you be 4th or 5th gear, so you have more time to notice, because my sweeps so fast in the first few gears.

So when you are looking for the boost pattern, which gear do you recommend?

I usually do my testing in 2nd and 3rd gear. I don't have any room around here where I can do many 4th gear runs up to redline!

jds

does this setup mean connecting the two second nipples of the actuators together via a hose?

Assuming by "second nipples" you mean the vent side of the wastegate and precontrol actuators, don't connect them together, just cap them off.

jds

alright, i figured it out.

connect lines from actuators to where the outlet hoses from the electrical solenoids are connected, thus bypassing the solenoids...ohhhh

thanks, raj

alright, i figured it out.

connect lines from actuators to where the outlet hoses from the electrical solenoids are connected, thus bypassing the solenoids...ohhhh

thanks, raj

Well, using JoeP controller valves, connecting the actuator vents as originally suggested did NOT work for me. It seemed to work for Damian. I set mine up as he later set up his, by capping the actuator vents...just like most electronic boost controller solenoids are set up. The more I think about it, the better this method seems. All the extra volume aft of the actuator is bound to affect the response of the wastegate and precontrol, which is exactly what I saw. I couldn't turn the boost down far enough to avoid huge spikes. Once I capped the actuator vents it worked much better...no spiking and I actually have some room to work with between about 7 psi and the stock 10 (I'm not going higher than that right now since my Pettit ECU gave up the ghost and I'm back with a stock ECU temporarily).

jds

interesting info jds, agreed, the setup with the capped ends is probably better, the previous setup i did was simply to try and maintain the stock flow paths, but i realized it was not that important.

I like to hear from the guys that did this mod.

Has anything changed for the worse or better?

Does anyone know anything about these boost controllers that are cheaper?

http://www.boostcontroller.com/products/TL21large.gif

http://boostcontroller.com/index.php...6category%3D13

btw, this thread is worthy of Sticky Status.

http://www.dawesdevices.com/

Another boost controller reseller that I one of the FD guys uses.

ill help bring this thread out of the grave. Does that RX hallman kit for 115 come with two units?

I just did a silicone vac hose change and the 8mm hose i put at the actuators are too big to fit the restrictor pills in (they just roll around inside the hose). what can i do??? What will happen if i just put hoses there with no pills? how will the car run?

With no pills the car will run a 7-5-7 pattern. And you only get one boost controller in the pro-RX kit. I waited and found some that were being sold on the forum, worth every penny IMO.

>>Does that RX hallman kit for 115 come with two units

not that i am aware of, i purchsed two, one for wg one for pc.

Damian, maybe I'm missing something here, but isn't this sentence incorrect?

"Also, i decided to try 'un-looping' them from the stock hose circut, in other words, earlier i just had them tubed like the stock system, but as if they were the solenoids. ..but now I'm trying them with the actuator vents capped off (i know what i just said probably made no sence lol)"

Seems to me your original design had the halmans replacing the stock -pills-, while you bypassed the solenoids. The later design caps off the other nipple on the actuator (the vent i guess) that would have connected up with the solenoids. So there is only one functional hose connected to the actuators, and the halmans are still in the same place, replacing the pills?

I guess maybe it just doesn't matter which side of the actuator causes the resistance or lack there-of so technically it doesn't matter which side has the halmans as long as you remove the pills?

The cold weather here has created new boost spike/creep for me (or maybe i just didn't know before the boost gauge) so I'm hoping to do this asap. I've been staring at vacuum hose diagrams all night trying to figure this out, so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hi jayk,

I am kinda confused on what ur confused on? Their are 3 ways I tested the setup:

1) with the halmans reaplaing the pills and the stock selenoids bypassed
2) with the halmans reaplaing the pills and the other end of the actuators capped
3) no pills but the halmans on the OTHER side of the actuators

Number 1 and 2 the actuators behave the same way (like the pills), restricting how much the actuators sees, number 3 they behave the opposite (like the solenoids), and restrict how much gets vented.

Let me know if you need anymore help.

Thanks!
 

Damian, Thanks!

I repeatedly searched for detailed installation info on MBC's, but nothing like this came up!

This is a great thread with a huge amount of useful info. I'm sure glad it resurfaced!

I think that explains it, #3 was the one confusing me but at 3:00am it was starting to make sense. Just wanted to double-check. Thanks for the quick reply.