To clarify, the inaccurate coolant temp gauge is the s5 version, it has 3 settings: "below operating temp, operating temp, and goodbye coolant seals". The s4 temp gauge on the other hand is linear and reads just fine. 1/4 = operating temp, roughly 185°, 1/2 is a little warm = roughly 200°, 3\4 is warmer than you want it to be = roughly 215°, I've never maxed it out but its safe to say its 225+

Fortunately, the inaccurate and useless s5 gauge is the one that's easy to replace, and the linear, actually useful s4 gauge is slightly more difficult to replace.

Edit:
Since you slipped in another post before I finished...

Sounds like a good plan (provided u find an s5 cluster that's not pink ), you can mount egt, ait (not really sure why you would need a gauge for that) and afr in an idiot light pod and relocate the lights, if you want to keep them down to the radio area. That would make for a very clean setup w/great visibility.

 

Yeah, as mine is an s4, I've never had much of a problem with the coolant gauge. I am curious, though, is the problem with the s5 the gauge of the sender? So hypothetically if I kept the stock s4 sender and used the s5 gauge, would it still suck?

 

Fairly certain the voltage range is different, so it would be linear, but it would be wrong. I had a friend who swapped an s5 motor into an s4 chassis and couldn't figure out why his car "never warned up" lol

 

Good stuff, James. Thanks for taking the time. I'm debating what to do for my gauges now. I do have the PFC commander which I'm thinking may alleviate the need for additional gauges (water temp in particular).

 

Sorry to bring back an old thread, but it's relevant I promise!

I'm doing an S5 cluster, and wanted to know what you guys did for wiring. (The most I've done on an FC is Icemark's Parking Light relay mod)

Did you guys extend the wiring harnesses or tap into a trace on the cluster? Would that be at all safe to even attempt, or do these guys draw a bit more power than the cluster is designed to?

Looking at Sharingan's build thread, the Prosports appear to be wired for always on (with key ON) illuminated operation (Kudos! Looks better that way)

I imagine that the White (Ignition 12V+) and Orange (12V+ Dashboard lighting) wires are tied together (at the end?) and go to ignition 12V+
Though I don't know what the preferred source for that is... (something on the main fuse box in the engine bay..?)

Red (battery +) goes all the way to the battery?
Black (engine ground) goes all the way to the engine?
For these two, if they do go all the way there, did you use a hanger and push them through the stock firewall wiring plug bundle?

Oh, also Sharingan >> Could you attach your pictures to a post, your original link has died.

 

I haven't been around here in awhile...

In my case, at the time I made mine, I wasn't too good at soldering, so tapping into the stock PCB wasn't going to happen. Instead I used my dremel to widen the hole for a lower backlight illumination bulb that would have been obscured anyway, I ran the harnesses out through there.