Who's running peripheral port on their FC?
I've kinda been considering a Peripheral Port on my N/A FC. I was at first leaning toward turboing, but if PP is cheaper/ more reliable, I'll do it. My engine could use a rebuild here soon so if anyone has suggestions on what internals to use that won't decintegrate at 9,000+rpms or what fuel delivery to use (Fuel Injection/Carb) as well as ignition. Also, fill me in with how your setup is for a daily and show some pics. Oh, for all you nazi's ( ;) ), I did search and found NOTHING useful. My exact search words were "peripheral port FC" and I got nothing useful. Thanks.
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uuhhm... PP doesn't belong on the road.
EDIT: on a more serious note, do you have the money to suppor this? |
do it...
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Peripheral port motors get worn out MUCH faster.
Go to RB's site, you can find the internals there that will support over 9k rpms. You'll need standalone, period. Custom manifolds, everything will be customized pretty much. This will cost a lot of money. Oh and is it meant for the street? Probably not, but would I, and other people, still drive it on the street? Hell yah ;) I've always wanted a PP motor thats capapble of going to 10 or 11k rpms, that'd be a fun car :) |
Not streetable
Requires aftermarket EMS or carbs Your NA drivetrain will break. -Ted |
Originally Posted by RETed
Not streetable
Requires aftermarket EMS or carbs Your NA drivetrain will break. -Ted |
It will ultimatly be more expencive then a turbo car as well,...
But i'd try it if i didnt live in cali.. |
Because it has no filler.
Oh, and how much DOES it cost? Compared to a TII swap? |
Much more than a TII swap, that's as much as I can tell you. It's one of those things, if you have to ask you don't wanna know.
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yeah, that what i was gonna say. Your engine wont be happy untill like 9k, due to the valve overlap *i think*. but the brap brap brap is the best sound in the world
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Lesse...
Full rebuild Special apex seals Block filler special sleeves for intake PP better bearings higher oil pressure regulator That's like $4,000 minimum if you're paying a good shop to do the work. MFR PP housings - $1,000+ each x2 Carbs + manifold - $1,000 min Aftermarket EMS + larger fuel injectors + custom intake manifold = $2,000 min It looks like minimum $5,000 just for the engine work. Then you gotta take care of the clutch and auxiliary crap (i.e. underdrive pulleys). To me, it looks like $10,000... -Ted |
Originally Posted by boogerboy
yeah, that what i was gonna say. Your engine wont be happy untill like 9k, due to the valve overlap *i think*. but the brap brap brap is the best sound in the world
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Originally Posted by Dan H
Valve overlap? ;)
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Originally Posted by boogerboy
yeah, that what i was gonna say. Your engine wont be happy untill like 9k, due to the valve overlap *i think*. but the brap brap brap is the best sound in the world
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Originally Posted by eriksseven
do it...
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why would you need all those parts? why couldn't you just use the stock TB if you made a custom UIM/LIM? You'd still have the same amount of air/fuel going in wouldn't you?
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Originally Posted by powrdby13B
why would you need all those parts? why couldn't you just use the stock TB if you made a custom UIM/LIM? You'd still have the same amount of air/fuel going in wouldn't you?
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Read forum first, try to find info, and you wont post that kind of question...
If you dont know how to weld, if you dont know what a PP is, if you dont have rotary knowledge, if you car belong to the road, if you are a student, if you dont have a good job, if you are not part of a racing team, if you dont have spare part, if you dont have time to work on your car, if you dont like to work on your car, if you want a reliable car, if you want to go to the market with your car... forget about it. |
Originally Posted by powrdby13B
why would you need all those parts? why couldn't you just use the stock TB if you made a custom UIM/LIM? You'd still have the same amount of air/fuel going in wouldn't you?
The stock TB is too restrictive for a PP. Please do more research on PP's before asking questions like this. There's are good guidelines on intake and exhaust dimensions posted in here if you do a search. Basically, you need a minimum 3" exhaust system. Think about it - you think the stock TB is going to handle the increase of intake to handle an engine that needs a 3" minimum exhaust system? A properly built PP 13B will make 300hp at the wheels... -Ted |
Why does everything think a peripheral automatically means not for the street? There are different levels of P-port motors, including something as small as a bridge-port/p-port hybrid... Don't assume every P-port is some huge unstreetable monster, you can essentially make the intake openings whatever size you want, to a point, or as small as you want in conjunction with the normal ports of the motor.
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Well the author DID say p-port, not BP-PP hybrid... A true P-Port is unstreetable.
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What size P-port? Like I said there can be different sizes of the port depending on the hole size you cut. And a hybrid p-port is still considered a p-port.
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I saw one on Rob Golden's (Pinapple Racing) REPU. It was a very simple setup with a carb. It ideled at 2k and made power at high rpm. It was cool.
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I have to disagree somewhat with some things your saying RETed...
you can do it ALOT cheaper than you first outlined.. and a stock TB would MORE than handle a PP w.r.t its flow characteristics, although only a nut case would try and use it on one. (manifold design) IMHO a N/A drivetrain wouldn´t immediatly break either, your not increasing the torque of the motor.(at least not by alot). and P-Ports are generally more streetable than bridgeports, not as much bucking, and look how many street car have bridgeports (over here at least..) Personal opinion is all this is really. Personally i would like to have a P-port powered car on the street one day. |
streetability is entirely a pesonal choice,.. you cant say something is unstreetable for someone else...you can warn them as to what it going to be like though.
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