Yup. Go run your engine hard for awhile on a track or at an autocross, save up your money for a TII swap, and once your NA engine lets go, swap the TII in.

Or just sell your car and get a TII.

don't worry about HP yet. Do all the suspension and reliability mods and prepare it for TII swap later down the road. When you are ready to swap you'll have everything else prepared.

exhaust and nitrous is what ive heard

im in the same situation too but i decided to just go with the TII engine .I mean i may have a lil lag but that kick will be well worth it

the hp/$ ratio is way off it costs more than its worth to make even decent power (trust me)

take your car drive it learn all u can and then buy a TII oh yea and love it

oh yea and to answer ROEN's ? i have no idea on power never dynoed and i have thought about standalone alot but my wallet and i had a discussion and decided that it would be better to drive this 7 till out of college and then buy the tII and then just go banana's on that

what lag? Fix your car.

I'm thinking the cheapest is to port the intake and to get a intake.

Cheapest? weight reduction. everything else will cost plenty or is not worth wasting your $$ on.

I DD'd my car all last summer with temperatures reaching above 110F at times, we were the hottest spot in the province many times and I have no AC, I didn't die from sweating. Sure AC is more comfortable, but it's not a necessity. I have manual steering and I don't get sore arms or get tired in parking lots because I'm not a panzy.

It all depends on what your tolerance of such things as to how acceptable they are. I love my manual steering (on a 15:1 power rack too) and I wouldn't go back to power. I probably wouldn't add AC either, too much weight, power drag and it compromises cooling.

Guess I'm a pansy. Sitting in traffic for three hours on the freeways of L.A. getting out of work on a Friday trying to get home to your family in 100 degree heat is not my idea of fun.

No need to call me that, I'm just letting the OP know my opinion.

does match porting even do anything??? I wonder why so many ppl do that and the throttle body mod on NA's....

pussy! :icon_no2:

I'm with Tex but you don't need that much HP to thoroughly enjoy the 7.

Did I miss the post where he said if he was building a streetcar or a race car?

I drive the t2 with manual rack, no ac, and sometimes the windows wont go down, and i enjoy every minute of it.

I know. We have people on this thread claiming 240 hp from an NA without nitrous. Some others go the distance to bridgeport a 6-port (WTF?) and still others want him to toss his air pump (meaning goodbye to VDI and 5th/6th port). The OP said he has an s5. He needs his air pump to give him useable power.

To the OP, I suggest doing what a few others here have suggested. Read the FAQ section and do searches on reliability mods and enjoy learning about the 7 and save the money that you will waste trying to beef up your NA and put it towards a TII. I have a s5 that is a trouble-free DD and a s4 TII that I can take to events on weekends. Best of both worlds.

The pansy comment was about the steering, not the AC, and it wasn't really directed at anyone in particular. With the steering it's not that hard at all unless you're stopped or going really, really slow, and even then it's not that bad. I've driven 8+ hours on a converted rack no problem, it's fine at autocrosses, it's fine at the track. I've never found that it tires me out at all. I'll never be convinced to go back to power steering in my FC, but I'd probably leave it on a "normal" car. I agree it's more comfortable with AC, but it's not like everyone died every time it got hot before AC was common.

Your comments were WAAAAAAY over dramatic, and I felt that they needed to be addressed. "You will die of sweat in the summer with no A/C. You'll have sore shoulders from lack of power steering in parking lots." No and no to those two from experience with my car. "You'll be completely pissed at yourself for getting a heavy clutch in traffic. Your flywheel will be a pain getting used to." my dad's car has a stiffer clutch and a light flywheel and everyone stalls it the first try, but you get used to it really quickly and it's not an issue. It makes rev matched downshifting easier to boot. I prefer it to my relatively soft stock clutch and heavy flywheel.

You can bridge a 6-port, but you have to toss out all the other auxillary equipment and do it properly in order to realize the benefits.

240 hp from a streeport? I haven't seen one yet.

240 hp from a bridgeport? Certainly doable.

240 hp from a p-port? Seen it....loud as hell though.

No nitrous in either of the last two cases.

Incorrect.

The simple answer to this question as to a simple next step to add power when you already have an openedup exhaust is to add a piggy back fuel computer and take some fuel out.

10-15 HP for 300 or less and better gas millage to boot.

Rtek 2.0 for an extra 100 and you get better response to boot....

AH-NODE says: DON'T BE AH GURLEE MAHN!

bahhahahhhahahhhahahahaha

I find these kinds of comments really funny...

I have no working A/C, but I've driven in 110F+ Sacramento summers and even hotter 120F+ Vegas summers!

PUSSIES!


-Ted

You do a forum search, as this topic has been covered before.

You already have most everything. You could get a cone intake and put a cold air box around it to get maybe 2-3 HP. But a cone intake + no cold air box = less power than stock intake. You could get 2-3 HP from Royal Purple oil. For comparision your exhaust probably gave you 25HP. You can shave off some weight and/or get a lightened flywheel to go faster without more horsepower. But basically you can't get much unless you do something major & expensive like: a standalone ECU, street port, turbo swap or NOS.

(and other people mentioned headers too, I think)

On a fuel injected RX-7, RB headers plus cat replacement don't add any significant power compared to cat replacement only. It says right on their website. Jeebus people. And theirs are probably the good ones. Next time someone suggests headers I want to see their own personal before/after dyno sheets, with nothing different between the two sheets except the headers. And yeah, I've seen a poorly photoshopped dyno sheets from a certain unnamed vendor. The new dyno is just a scaled up version of the old dyno. The static is the same on both dynos, or in some places the static is shifted or mirrored. Plus a real dyno would show different gains at different rpms, especially if headers followed the harmonics BS that they talk about. Go look at one of them yourself and see.

on a stock port you can reach just over 200 hp to the wheels. there is someone on here that did it i forget who though

Sure you can, with NOS, but seeing as a radical streetport and downdraft Webers only get you a bit above 200 in EP trim, I doubt it can happen on stock ports with NA.

Alright I'll retract my previous posts then, I'm outnumbered on this one.