can somebody post up specs and where they got they're seals from? I know McMaster-Carr sells them, but I can't navigate that site for the life of me.

thanks!

 

Never heard of them.
Do you have a reference for them?
If they were available, I would think they would be ungodly expensive!

I know McMaster-Carr has a teflon-encapsulated silicone o-ring that can work though...


-Ted

 

If you're talking about the inner and outer water seal "o-rings", I tried an aftermarket silicone set that was supposed to be good for 500 degrees, and they disintegrated on me. I ended up getting them directly from Mazda.

 

Oem Ftw

 

OEM seals tends to go kaput after a single overheat (have fun rebuilding).

There has to be something better out there...

Teflon has an operating temperature of like 500 degrees, which is twice what even the worst overheat would be. I think the problem might be the joint that holds the ends of the loop together coming apart at high temp? Maybe it would be better if they had some of higher temperature bond? Or stapled them together (as long as the staple was almost flush)?

Or maybe they just need to have a one-peice injection mold for the coolant seals?

 

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/o-ring_kits.htm

 

i am ordering some of the seals from McMaster-Carr, i have used the ones from RA so soon i will know if they are the same ones.

part # is: 9319K239

just do a search and they should come up for $9.94 each, you will need 4 for a single rebuild and also will need to pick up a set of 4 outer coolant seals from mazda but they are only about $6 each from the dealer then you will need all the relevant torsion bolt gaskets, oil seal o-rings, springs, apex seals etc. for the rebuild completion.

personally i like the OEM seals for longevity but i do have a preference to the McMaster Carr seals for repeat use for performance engines since you can reuse them, unfortunately i have noticed they have leaked water into the combustion chamber on more than one occasion which is why i doubt i will use them in my rebuilds but the motor has hit over 240*F which i don't know that the OEM seals could handle that heat range so i guess it is a tradeoff since they are obviously more durable of a coolant seal. i premix so a little water in there now and then won't hurt it much but it is a rather disturbing thought if i happened to let the engine sit for anything more than a few days without having been run to clear it out.

i will be testing them more on full bridge n/a applications once i have time to do my frankenstein n/a build for my 510 project car.

 

let us know about the RA ones. are these o-rings trim to fit? (mcmaster-carr)

 

the RA ones were not, they were just slightly smaller than the stock metric sized seals but fit just fine when you warm them up to about 100F or so in water, just don't overdo it. after warming them i installed them with hylomar in the coolant seal groove and laid a rotor housing on top to keep it in the groove for about an hour. just before reassembly remove the rotor housing and reassemble the motor quickly before the seals begin to move from the channel. i really only suggest professional builders use them as a number of people have pinched these seals while reassembling unkowingly. you must be relatively quick at putting the engine together, it usually takes me about 45 minutes to fully assemble a short block and that is a high time estimate, if i pushed myself probably about 15 minutes.

 

jesus, McMaster-Carr has some fast shipping!

i orderer them last night and i found a shipping slip on my door this afternoon and i didn't even order them overnight.

 

Ben, were the McMaster-Carr seals the same as RA's? Did they have a better fit compared to RA's?

 

It is not the seal that fails on over heat, it is the exspantion of metals sheering the ring.

First rule of thumb of any combustion engin, Dont over heat it!