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-   2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/)
-   -   UV Dye Ester Oil OK for A/C Compressor Flushing? (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/uv-dye-ester-oil-ok-c-compressor-flushing-858141/)

Robs86gxl 08-25-09 05:22 PM

one more thing I didnt see if you were putting on a new compressor or not but my first problem with mine was leaking out of the front of the comp. inside the clutch area. So lucky me I had another one just removed.
helps to test charge with nitrogen. will help remove any moisture. and help with finding leaks.
what a pain to work on! i have tried 3 times and not quite there yet. so good luck..

nycgps 08-25-09 05:28 PM


Originally Posted by Robs86gxl (Post 9451879)
it is also helpfull if you have a micrometer while you are pulling vacume if you do get it to hold on the gauges @ -29in. vacume with a mircometer you can be sure it will hold @ 500 microns.
black dragon offers a O ring kit complete for a/c system rebuild.

I have new o-rings.

Im pretty sure its either the high side or the evaporator that has a leak. Cuz thats the only part that I touched ...

It wont hold any vacuum, its all gone in 5 seconds.

Now Im wondering if I can use those 134a with UV dye, plug it into the low port, turn the car & compressor on to find the leaks. it wont fry my compressor right ?

nycgps 08-25-09 05:29 PM


Originally Posted by Robs86gxl (Post 9451904)
one more thing I didnt see if you were putting on a new compressor or not but my first problem with mine was leaking out of the front of the comp. inside the clutch area. So lucky me I had another one just removed.
helps to test charge with nitrogen. will help remove any moisture. and help with finding leaks.
what a pain to work on! i have tried 3 times and not quite there yet. so good luck..

Before I had a really small leak (about 1 hour to loose all the Vacuum),

then I trace it all the way to the high pressure side, so I replaced the tube. then now it has a HUGE leak that wont even hold vacuum for 5 seconds.

I think I might swap the thing back to the old one tomorrow morning and see what happens.

Robs86gxl 08-25-09 05:35 PM

rebuild the hose before you put it back on!!! shop around.. probably around 10 to 15 bucks. for a rebuild.. if not youll have to take it off again...

Robs86gxl 08-25-09 05:40 PM

mineal oil and ester oil do not mix... ever.. the differant refrigerants carry around different oils if you have the wrong oil in the system with the wrong refrigerant it wont work and you could burn out your compressor. you can use the 134 with leak check but sounds like your compressor allready had the ester oil in it.so no big deal unless your going to final charge with r12 and your system is contaminated.

nycgps 08-25-09 06:49 PM

I got all mineral stuff out already.

I tested the A/C when it still had a "small leak". the compressor works and turns on, I had a can of 134a with UV dye. it charged in. its "a little but cool" but hey it had a leak ...

then I took the high line out and ... you know the rest of the story.

Gonna buy another 1-2 cans of the UV dye, I want to know if its the lines or o-rings thats leaking, if not, its probably the evaporator core.

Robs86gxl 08-25-09 08:19 PM

make sure the o rings your using are metric.. fyi.

nycgps 08-25-09 08:25 PM


Originally Posted by Robs86gxl (Post 9452345)
make sure the o rings your using are metric.. fyi.

Its all brand new Mazda stock o-rings.

Im going to buy some new o-rings just in case.

jackhild59 08-25-09 08:27 PM

Ok, you need to pressurize the system slightly with maybe 5-10 psi. You could use some generic R134a or my favorite spray duster, http://www.web-tronics.com/12sudu1524.html- used to clean electronics, keyboards etc. Use that side-can tap to tap the duster. :)

Add 50% dishwashing soap to 50% water and put it in a spray bottle. Squirt this on all your lines, connections etc. You will get lots of bubbles at the leak. Fix the leaks, move on.

And FYI-that duster 152 is the next generation automotive A/C refrigerant that will be replacing R134a. Less than 1/10th the global warming potential, lower head pressures, higher energy efficiency, compatible with all 134a oils etc. It makes a really nice R12 replacement too. Really.

nycgps 08-25-09 08:36 PM


Originally Posted by jackhild59 (Post 9452374)
Ok, you need to pressurize the system slightly with maybe 5-10 psi. You could use some generic R134a or my favorite spray duster, http://www.web-tronics.com/12sudu1524.html- used to clean electronics, keyboards etc. Use that side-can tap to tap the duster. :)

Add 50% dishwashing soap to 50% water and put it in a spray bottle. Squirt this on all your lines, connections etc. You will get lots of bubbles at the leak. Fix the leaks, move on.

And FYI-that duster 152 is the next generation automotive A/C refrigerant that will be replacing R134a. Less than 1/10th the global warming potential, lower head pressures, higher energy efficiency, compatible with all 134a oils etc. It makes a really nice R12 replacement too. Really.

totally forgot the bubble trick

hmm, Im just gonna get some cheap R134a at Autozone. use it to build pressure to find the leak.

Thanks.

jackhild59 08-25-09 08:45 PM


Originally Posted by nycgps (Post 9452394)
totally forgot the bubble trick

hmm, Im just gonna get some cheap R134a at Autozone. use it to build pressure to find the leak.

Thanks.

just bubble a little pressure with the gas, don't need to put in the liquid. Keep in mind you may have more than 1 leak, so don't stop until you check the entire circuit. Spray down the rubber hoses-they develop leaks too.

jackhild59 08-25-09 08:50 PM


Originally Posted by Robs86gxl (Post 9451951)
mineal oil and ester oil do not mix... ever.. the differant refrigerants carry around different oils if you have the wrong oil in the system with the wrong refrigerant it wont work and you could burn out your compressor. you can use the 134 with leak check but sounds like your compressor allready had the ester oil in it.so no big deal unless your going to final charge with r12 and your system is contaminated.

This information is all wrong. ^

Ester and mineral are compatible.
PAG and mineral oil are not compatible.

Ester is compatible with both R134a and R12 (and R152a:)).
Mineral oil is compatible only with R12 (for auto A/C purposes).
PAG is totally incompatible with R12 but is compatible with R134a and R152a:).

nycgps 08-25-09 10:35 PM


Originally Posted by jackhild59 (Post 9452410)
just bubble a little pressure with the gas, don't need to put in the liquid. Keep in mind you may have more than 1 leak, so don't stop until you check the entire circuit. Spray down the rubber hoses-they develop leaks too.


Hmm

So I can keep running the compressor without any Freeze12/R134a/R12 in there ? As long as it has oil in there correct ? Wont it overheat the compressor ?

jackhild59 08-26-09 07:06 AM


Originally Posted by nycgps (Post 9452656)
Hmm

So I can keep running the compressor without any Freeze12/R134a/R12 in there ? As long as it has oil in there correct ? Wont it overheat the compressor ?

Don't run the system while you are leak checking it. Pressurize it with a can of 134a.

nycgps 08-26-09 08:25 AM


Originally Posted by jackhild59 (Post 9453121)
Don't run the system while you are leak checking it. Pressurize it with a can of 134a.

Ok,

Will try to find the leak in a little bit. :) Thanks !

nycgps 08-26-09 02:11 PM

Found the leak.

its actually, LEAKS.

3 leaks found.

one by the thermo switch after the drier.

the other one is on the low side of the condenser tube. -_-

Lucky I got another condenser from forum member in advance, problem is the high side plastic tube have a problem too. need to order parts -_-


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