Transmission fluid: Redline vs Royal Purple
 

Who's used them, I've heard nothing but good stuff about both so now I dunno which I should run heh.

Redline shockproof vs redline non-shockproof vs Royal purple synthetic?

Going in an S4 TII tranny and dealing with 400+ hp.

Trying another stock trans? :)
I would suggest you get a carbon clutch this time!


-Ted

I had another S4 TII trans laying around
and I want the car on the road like, now. Yuppies with supras to deal with. :P

I actually have a reasonably gentle clutch - an ACT 2600.

I just want this transmission to last longer than two weeks heh.

Although I can't say anything about Royal Purple tranny fluid, I can say that I use the synthetic engine oil in my FC, and it does a terrific job.

A fellow rotor head here in raleigh has used redline in his fc tranny for the cars entire life. It's a stock 86 GXL w/ 165k on the clock and the tranny is smooth as can be.

For the stock tranny use Redline MT-90, it's what's reccomended for them. I use it and it's good stuff. My tranny had a 2nd gear grinding issue when using conventional fluid and it doesn't any more. I can't say whether Royal Purple is better or worse, but I do know that I only see Redline at the races.

I read through a bunch of forums when picking my tranny oil. Some made for easy shifting, some reduced or eliminated grinding. Only Royal Purple and Neo did both. Redline made shifting easier, and I'm sure it's about as good (and cheaper) on the race track, but users said grinding stayed the same or got worse. Supposedly Royal Purple gives slightly more horsepower than anything else as well, from less friction.

I happened to be making an order from Mazdatrix at the time, and they only have Neo tranny oil. So I'm running Neo now and it shifts as quickly and easily as a child's toy (it didn't before). It won't grind either. Even if I mis-shift it goes <clunk> and bounces off, but it could just be my clutch/tranny is in good shape.

if my car has never used royal purple oil for the trannywould it cause any harm?? same with the engine... would that cause any harm?

Im not running any crazy power like you. But, I run, and Love Redline's MT90 in my 89 N/A.

i use Royal purple in my tranny and rear end and love it a little cheaper than redline... but i also had a 2nd gear grinding and 3rd gear when i put RP all of it went away and throws were alot smoother...
TwEaK

i use syncromesh in my n/a.. got rid of grinds, and i can acutally get it into 3rd at 8k... anyone else use syncromesh? what do u guys think of it?

Synchromesh is too thin and will not protect the transmission.

Redline MT90 is thinner then RoyalPurple Maxgear. No way does Maxgear work better in cold. Its too thick. But, thick=protection so it might protect better. And, thick=power loss.

Redline 75w90NS should protect better then their MT90.

Shockproof heavy might protect the best. But, you'll have to test the shift quality yourself. Some trannies tolerate it. Others don't.

Don't expect a fluid to make up for bad shifting habits or too much power.

I use the Redline superlightweight shock proof in non turbo trannies.

From Pegasus racing:
But for turbo trannies is use light shock proof:
Redline MT 90 also works well, and is the old Redline MTL but meets the GL4 requirements (as our trannies require)

RP has a specific tranny oil and its super thin like 10 weight.

I have ran it its ok but I realy do not like it that much. I prefer to run the RL tranny oil and I run the RP max gear for the rear end as it has an LSD friction aditive in it and well therfor wouldent be recomended in a tranny.

+1

Please stop making dangerous comments like this.

75W90NS is a GL-5 gear oil that contains sulfates in it.
Sulfates will corrode the brass synchronizes in the transmission.
This is BAD.
It will cause the transmission to start crunching during shifts.

MT90 is the recommended fluid for the FC transmission, period.
The Shockproof oils can be substituted.
You can call Redline 1-800 tech line.


-Ted

Best info yet, though someone was correct in saying some transmissions/rear ends don't seem to like shockproof. The rear ends in cars I've ridden in w/shockproof were noisy as hell compared to mine w/regular synthetic.

Run a search on "NEO transmission" and see what people have to say about that stuff. ;)

Here's one thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...o+transmission

Not a dangerous comment, just Lube 101
 

All transmission fluids contain sulfur. Gear oils are buffered to prevent these issues. And, many now use inactive(vs. cheaper older active) sulfur additive packages. GL5 gear oils ARE just safe as GL4 gear oils when not pushed beyond it service life.
Sorry REted, but all that GL5 eating synchros is one of those FEARS that has been overly hyped by the internet!
A GL4 gear oil that has been oxidized and whose additive package is depleted is very corossive and will also eat your synchros. Yet, we all blindly push GL4 gear oils without understanding why. Any fluid pushed beyond it service life is destructive, regardless if it is a GL4 or GL5.

Some of these GL4 manual transmission fluids are surprisingly blended very stoutly(as seen in a virgin oil anaylsis), with a GL5 level or higher additive package. Usually the thinner you go, the more AW/EP additives you want to make up for film thickness reduction. But, these GL4 manual tranny fluids are smartly marketed ONLY as a GL4 even though they have very stout additive packages. Marketing tends to cater to the brainless mass of consumers. I know of 2 high end boutique GL4 75w90 gear oils, often mentioned and recommended, with additive packages that would shame a store bought generic mineral GL5 gear oil. That alone should put the higher/lower sulfur argument to rest.

Those bad synchro eating acids formed by the sulfur is caused by fluid oxidation, moisture, and other fluid breakdown related issues. These issues are easiily prevented by changing the gear oil at a reasonable interval. But lazy and cheap RX7 owners don't want to change their gear oil every 2-3 years or 30k miles. Those that don't maintain their transmissions will have issues REGARDLESS of gear oil used.

Note that I don't recommend just any ol' GL5 gear oil. Redline, Motul, Amsoil, Specialtyformulations, RoyalPurple, Neo.....have GL5 gear oils that are recommended and safe for manual transmission usage. I didn't go out and recommend any generic mineral oil that is quick to break down or with a discount addtive package, typically installed by the local jippylube, garage, or cheap ignorant Rx7 owners.
I recommend higher end synthetic based boutique gear oils that aren't 'cost' challenged and typically use the better buffering agents and inactive non corrosive additive packages. These boutique gear oils also used basestocks that do not oxidize quickly and can take the heat/abuse that mineral gear oils can't.

Besides the discount no-name gear oils, the only other problem with GL5 gear oil is that most over the counter gear oils are blended with LSD additives. Any OTC gear oil pre-blended with LSD additives should be avoided in any synchronized transmission. The LSD friction modifiers hinder the synchros ability to work and will lead to poor quality shifting(notchy shifter or crunching gears). At the local autoparts stores, just about every GL5 80w90 is blended with LSD additives. This is the reason why so many have worse shifting with them.

According to my owners manual and factory service manuals, GL4 OR GL5 gear oil can be used. If Mazda isn't afraid of the GL5 additive pack(see how vocal they are against synthetic motor oil), then why should you be?
And, does anyone want to guess what the factory fill is that some of you still are using after 15+ years?

For most people, I will always recommend a GL4 gear oil. Its an idiot proof option since there are only few that are available, none have LSD friction modifiers, usually are synthetic(don't break down quickly), definitely shift the best(lack of LSD additive and blended thinner), and will tolerate that poor maintenance intervals.

For those that want better protection, I'll always recommend a GL5 gear oil LABELLED manual transmission safe or are dual rated, GL4/GL5. These will protect better(GL5 additive pack) and tend to be a little thicker(film thickness important in tranny). You might sacrifice a little shift quality, but that depends on transmission condition and shift style.
My 16 year oil transmission will shift perfectly with ANY gear oil. But, cold overnights make the RP & M1 a little more notchy(but still better then the factory OEM fill from year ago).

Redline Shockproof is best for those that need it. This additive overdosed syrup is a racing fluid. Its best for those looking for a bandaid for a weak transmission or rearend, and for those that disassemble and inspect their components regularly. Problem with shockproof is that you should pick the one that works best. And, I don't see it as an optimum shifting fluid. I also don't care for the 'plating' that I've seen with the Schockproof. It seems to buildup, possibly from the megadose of additives. I'll surmise that the plating buildup, is how it protects.

And, I don't see any fluid as a fix for a broken or weak transmission. Fix, rebuild, and upgrade for your intended usage.

wow

I've learned quite a bit about transmission fluids here now, wow.

Thanks for all the info everyone!

I went with the "Royal Purple" 75w90. It's even purple fluid. Oooh. (it better be since it cost me $40 to fill my tranny!) I'll update this post if I ever have any further transmission issues, though I am not exactly using the transmission for it's design spec (like an extra 2000RPM and extra 250+hp being put through it) so I'm sure this isn't the last time I'll have the tranny out of the car. Also, it's got the LSD additive in it so I don't think it's the "optimum" solution anymore... but their claims are pretty nice so I should see!

I've seen it done with my own eyes.
I can't even count the number of times I've come across an FC owner who threw regular gear lube into the trans and complain why it was crunching all the time...
I guess the catch is that the fluid (GL-4 or GL-5) will explicitly state that it's okay for use on "modern synchromesh transmissions".
Not all of them state this.
I have never seen a GL-5 rated fluid that's okay for use in transmissions.
Anyone know of any?
All the transmission fluids I've come across were just GL-4 rated.

GL-4 versus GL-5 is just a gear-load rating.
Nothing more; nothing less.
It doesn't imply anything about being capatible with bronze synchronizers.
Sulfur is used to increase the load-bearing capacbilities.
You can smell it when you open the bottle up.
If it's smells stink, don't use it in your transmission, period.
I dunno if it's a buffer or sulfur is not added, by GL-4 fluids that are made for transmission use do not stink.

I would never throw Redline 75W90NS into my transmission.
In fact, Redline tech will tell you the same thing.
This is what you claimed - this is what I was bitching at.
If Redline tech says don't do it, I dunno why you want go against their recommendations.
This is not some Internet myth - you are just plain wrong.


-Ted

heh

I've been using GL-5 all this time, I thought it was the shit I was suppossed to be using.

The smelly stuff, yeah. My transmissions have always shifted fine though. *shrug*

Royal purple seems to be working well! It also doesn't stink.

I always avoid smelly motor oils - generally it seems to me that only the really quality ones don't smell bad.

Slightly off-topic... is this the fluid that is supposed to go into our LSDs? Not sure if I've been told the right info.

"75W90" is the proper fluid if you're running the stock clutch-type LSD.
"75W90NS" is the proper fluid for *NO* LSD.


-Ted

Good choice.
Drop Redline and go RoyalPurple.

Any thoughts on Mobile1's Full Synthetic Gear Oil?

i just bought some royal purple 75w90 for my transmission today so i'll let you guys know my opinion on saturday after i get it put in there and my motor swapped in.

usage time, heat, and mositure, kill your synchros
 

Sulfur isn't the only additive used to make GL4 or GL5 gear oils. Moly, ZDDP, Boron, Calcium, Magesium, Teflon, Graphite, Chlorinated compounds, Esters, and numerous other chemicals can be used to increase the load carrying capability of a fluid.

Smell of a gear oil doesn't tell you if the additive package is buffered or not, is inactive or not...... Smell doesn't prove anything.

With ANY diff, I'd recommend a fluid with LSD additive even if it isn't needed. There are other benefits to the LSD additive chemistry. The friction modifiers are high end products. An open diff using a LSD additve equipped gear oil will actually run cooler, have less power loss through it, and should last longer. With an LSD, the more additive you use, the more it will slip, the less torque bias it will have. So, if you want a grippier LSD, don't use the additive or a fluid with it already. Most stock old worn out LSD clutch type diffs might benefit from less or no LSD additive. But, avoid chatter since that will create wear in the clutches. The LSD additive amount can be tailored to the condition of your rearend's LSD. Use just enough to prevent chatter or binding. Thats difficult to do if the fluid is already overdosed with LSD additive. Notice that my recommendations are opposite of what is commonly done. Use a full dose of LSD additive in an open diff. Use as little as needed in a LSD equipped diff.

These are some of the GL5 gear oils that should be considered for added protection over a GL4 gear oil in a manual transmission without negatively affecting the shift quality or synchro life. Lets quote some websites. Notice that they mention GL4, GL5, gearboxes synchronizers, manual transmissions or transaxles, OR easier shifting,

Redline 75w90NS--This GL-5-type geal oil doesn't contain the friction modifiers for limited-slip hypoid differentials. This makes the transmission synchronizers come to equal speeds more quickly, allowing faster shifting and much easier low-temperature shifting.

NEO 75w90HD--NEO 75W-90 HD meets the requirements for GL-4 grade even where manufacturers discourage the use of a GL-5 product. It is recommended for front wheel drive transaxle use where GL-4 performance is specified.

Motul Motylgear 75w90--For all gearboxes and hypoid rear axles without limited slip systems. Performance Standards: API GL4 and GL5 / MIL-L-2105D. Very easy gear shifting.

Motul Gear 300 75w90--Performance Standards: API GL4 and GL5 / MIL-L-2105D. For all gearboxes and hypoid rear axles without limited slip systems. Very easy gear shifting.

RoyalPurple Maxgear 75w90--Max-Gear is formulated to improve the efficiency of rear end assemblies and manual transmissions. API GL-4 / GL-5 Certified.

Specialtyformulations MTL-R 75w90--MTL-R is manufactured using the finest Group IV (PAO) and Group V base oils and is recommended for manual transmissions and transaxles specifying a GL4/GL5 75w90 lubricant.

Pennzoil 75w90 GL5 synthetic--PENNZOIL® SYNTHETIC SAE 75W-90 GL-5 is designed primarily for the lubrication of differentials and manual transmissions requiring an API GL-5 gear lubricant.

Torco RTF 75w90--Recommended for manual transmissions, transaxles and marine outdrive units where an SAE 75W90, 80W90
or 90 is specified. RTF is specially formulated to exceed the load-carrying and extreme pressure wear protection properties of higher viscosity GL-5 or GL-6 gear oils. RTF provides anti-score
protection for high speed, high load and high torque shock-loading conditions, while allowing smooth operation of synchronizers.

Castrol Syntrax/Mulitrax 75w90--Castrol Syntrax is a synthetic SAE75W-90 manual transmission fluid with outstanding thermal stability and synchronizer performance. Castrol Syntrax is particularly recommended for transaxle applications with combined transmission and hypoid differentials Exceeds API GL5.

Lubro-Moly Vollsynthese 75w90-- Allows for easier shifting and quieter operation. Gives outstanding wear and corrosion protection. For manual transmissions, transaxles, and rear axles where GL5 is specified.

And to quote Mazda, please read your owner's manual and factory service manual's fluid recommendations for your vehicle's transmission. SURPRISE. GL4 OR GL5!

75w90NS works extremely well in my transmission, protects better then the GL4 MT90, without any synchro issues while shifting well. 75w90 works great in my open diff rearend.

And, my gear oils get dumped every 30k OR 3 years. So, even if I used a bad sulfur loaded gear oil, it will not have been used long enough to oxidize, wear out the additive package, or take in enough moisture to form acids. Time, heat, and moisture are your synchronizer's enemy. Sulfur is the scapegoat for owners abuse, neglect, and pathetic maintenance habits.

Switching your tranny oil from X to Y should never cause any problems, unless Y is bad in and of itself.

I believe Royal Purple Max Gear contains sulphur, which will dissolve your (bronze?) synchros. Use RP Synchromax in the tranny, RP Max Gear in the differential. This is what RP recommends, in fact. In general never use transmission oil with sulphur in an RX-7. Usually the GL5 stuff has sulphur but the GL4 stuff (a lower standard) doesn't have sulphur. The reason is because sulphur improves the oil to meet the higher standard. That's one of the reasons I think saying Royal Purple or any thin oil doesn't protect as well as some thicker oil from a different brand is a load of bull. Being thicker will help an oil coat the gears better (just like the way honey coats better than water), but that is one of multiple factors contributing to protection.

http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/13.pdf
Redline whitepaper on manual transmission fluids...


-Ted

wow, what a discussion from such a simple question. I belive I saw a similar question before about motor oil.

What I know is that I use redline mt-90. It seems to do the job just fine, I change it every fifteen grand, and the tranny doesn't seem to be falling apart - my synchros seem fine.

So... yeah.....


damn.

I can't imagine why royal purp would be bad, but I dunno if it's as nice as redline. If you want to save a few pennies, I doubt it would be a horrible decision. A decent synthetic oil is better than cheapie-cheap organic.

That Redline pdf recommends MTL in place of 75W to 85W, MT-90 in place of 90W. And it is engineered for high enough friction to engage the gears; so much for trying to use synthetics to lower friction.

Interestingly enough, that Redline pdf did go into great detail about how Redline lets you shift easier. - Just like the users reported on the various forums I read. AND it does not recommend extending oil drain intervals because, even though the oil lasts longer, metal shavings still build up just as fast. - The same forum users reported unchanged or sometimes increased grinding on Redline.

IMO Royal Purple and Neo are better than Redline for a daily-driver because users reported easier shifting AND reduced grinding. A lot of the "cheap" synthetics reduced grinding but didn't make shifting any easier. In fact, I'd reluctantly choose Mobil 1 or some other "cheap" synthetic over Redline. I'd hate the slow shifting but I'd hate the possibility of replacing my tranny early even more. Unless somebody can tell me that this grinding is nothing to worry about???

I've used Redline in multiple RWD and FWD transmissions without issues. And, those same trannies were switched over from other fluids that weren't optimal. I find that the Neo and RoyalP fluids are not optimal in cold weather. Thicker will quiet down a tranny a little. Neo and RP are thicker then Redline easily by 20%. The thicker fluids shift slower. Because it gives the synchros more time, they seem to engage quicker and easier. The thinner Redline might actually allow you to shift quicker then the syncronizers capability. The further north you go, the more I'll recommend the use of Redline or the Amsoil gear oil. If you are in the warmer side of the country, you're probably better off with the Neo or RP. The RP is also friction modified for LSD(probably lightly). To me, that would be a less optimal fluid compared to ANY non-frictioned modified gear oil. But, the RP did shift better then the Mobil1, Valvoline, and Castrol gear oils, which are, I believe, all LSD additived and based on the older additive smelly technology that everyone is afraid of.

Shavings with a boutique oil do not buildup as fast when compared to a mineral oil. The last MT90 UOA that I saw had about 25k miles and there was no reason not to run the fluid to 50k. I've seen 10k synchromesh UOAs that looked horrible. So, those of you running Pennzoil or GM synchromesh, remove it. MTL easily trumps syncromesh.

If you have grinding, fix your transmission. Even the worst new gear oil shouldn't cause grinding. At 15-20 years old and most easily over 100k miles with pathetic maintenance, there aren't too many sound Rx-7 manual transmissions out there.

deadRX7Conv: According to the info Redline released (RETed's post), half of what you wrote isn't true. As for the other half, I dunno.

Exactly what isn't true?

Read the Redline pdf file. For example:
- Redline says it improves shifting by making better use of the synchros, not by out-doing them.
- Redline says metal shavings build up just as fast with their oil as with other oils.
- Redline does not recommend extending oil drain intervals for this reason (even though the oil itself will otherwise be in better shape).

Being thinner is in fact what makes an oil shift quicker, according to Redline. But based on all the other inaccuracies I'd have to check for myself before believing Redline or RP or Neo or X is thinner. And if thicker oils quiet the tranny grinding, an oil should be able to shift quick (thin) OR "quiet" the grinding (thick), not both like RP & Neo (thick AND thin??).

why is that so the strength of the clutch can destroy the tranny?? common sense, mr tranny keeps blowing up so ill get a stronger clutch!!!??? NEGATIVE BUDDY

btw redline shockproof all the way in the tranny and the diff, quited down my tranny and makes shifting smoother

i use redline in my tranny and i can say it does the job..... i have no experience with royal purple but you cant go wrong with redline

I should mention that Redline is wonderful stuff. I'm not ragging on Redline when I prefer another oil.

Sorry, but I've seen UOAs of Redline gear oils compared to other gear oils and wear did not buildup at the same rate. Otherwise why the fock would you use Redline if it didn't protect better? Why use this highend PAO/POE based well additized GL4 gear oil? Why use ANY highend fluid if the wear wasn't reduced?
And, I never recommend extended oil change intervals with any fluid. But, some fluids are definitely better for those who are negligent.

Yep, being thinner and not friction modified is what makes one gear oil better then the other. I never said redline outdid the synchros. But, it is an enabler enabling the driver to do so. Some trannies are just tired. Anyone who complains about Redline MT90 shift crunching and claims that RP shifted better, has an issue. I was actually defending Redline. IMO, the thicker oil is slower to shift. That might be the reason why the thicker oil doesn't crunch. Hint, more synchro time. It was a theory. I personally have never seen RP shift faster then Redline. But, I do notice that some trannies don't like being muscled with certain fluids. You can muscle crunch any transmission with any fluid. But, the thicker fluids will require more muscle. Maybe that is why the RP or Neo crunch less. The owner ends up with a slower shift but can't actually tell or feel that it slower. And, the lack of the crunch does feel so much better.
Wake up. If your synchros are shot, and you push them too quickly, you will crunch. Try it. That thick gear oil gives that worn synchro all the time in the world to shift, by slowing the driver down just enough. Redline, might actually be too thin and increases the driver's shift speed, hence the crunch that some experience with it, which goes away with a thicker fluid like Neo or RP. This is why I recommend the thicker fluid for southern climates. Too thin and crunch crunch all the time with worn synchros. Up north, weather is overly cold. This is where Redline shines best. Its flows really well and doesn't overly slow your shifter like mineral oil or thicker oils. I've driven trucks using 250wt gear oil. And, when cold, it took two hands off the wheel and some brute force to row that shifter. But, that thing was smooth and quiet. It howled like a banshee and crunched like nuts on 90wt. Baby shifting was required. That last time I saw one of the owners, he was changing out to a 140wt to help with the cold shift issue, not enough muscle available.
So, you decide whats better, a fluid that crunches and is the fastest(thinnest), or a fluid that doesn't(because its a little thicker/slower). I know that rebuilding isn't an option for most owners which would be my 1st recommendation.

Sorry dude, taking stuff out of context and calling them inaccuracies is pretty foolish. Maybe you should more carefully read what I wrote.

And,
Where does Redline say that their fluids buildup shavings just as fast?
Where do they say that their gear oil is not recommended for extended changes?
Hows does Redline make better use of the synchros?

You stupid fuck.
If you have no idea what you're talking about, don't be starting shit.
Do your homework before flying your mouth off like that, cause you look pretty stupid with your foot in your mouth.


-Ted

I'm not blasting you or anything, but I'm curious about why this is so?
Manual transmissions don't have valve bodies or hydraulic actuation, so where does the thicker = slower shifting?
Or is it just all the film strength on the gears that do it?
Pardon my ignorance on this matter.


-Ted

Extreme example on viscosity:
Stir a cup of water. Stir a cup of honey. Which spoon can you spin faster?
The spoon is equivalent to all the moving parts, that need to work through that resistance, in your transmission.
You spend too much time in Hawaii. Spend a winter in Maine. You'd be how surprised how slow a shifter can move in the cold. The old, why is my tranny hard to shift in the cold, situation rears thick oil's ugly head every time. The thicker the fluid is, the slower you shift, as all the moving parts 'wade' through that gear oil, whether you notice it or not. That might be the reason why some experience the crunch with Redline, or with their overused sheared-thin gear oil. The oil might be too thin for a tired and worn transmission allowing the owner to shift too quickly.
Usually, if a solution is found in a fluid, then there is something mechanical that needs to be addressed.
My transmission shifts perfectly with ANY gear oil. But, I prefer the Redline because it is the best for my situation, short summers. And when it doesn't, I'll rebuild or fix it, and not look for a solution in a bottle.
Any who finds a temporary solution in the bottle, has either used the wrong fluid or has overused their fluid to begin with.

Redline says the thinner oil slips in between parts easier, which lets the synchros mate up quicker.

I'm gonna let people's reading comprehension skills sort out the rest.

Or try method B: Flip a coin. They're both great oils and I won't mind if people pick the lesser one. Actually, I won't mind so much if people put bad oil in their trannies. Well, not the people who get arrogant about it anyway.

new trans is still working perfectly!

Only have gone about 200 miles though, and I'm staying out of the power in 5th for the most part.

tell me exactly what you meen then by telling him to get a carbon clutch.
the only advantages of haveing a carbon clutch and high pressure pressure plate, is for the clutch to grab harder, and grabbing harder is going to increase the shock load on the transmission, therefore causing the some problem if not more problems then he had in the first place. so please dont tell me to do my fucking research, i know a little bit about what i said or i wouldnt have posted at all. just cuz i donthave 22,000 posts doenst make me a dumbass!!

I use redline 75-90NS mixed with super light weight shock proof. It is the only thing i've tried that provides a grind free normal speed 1-2 shift. My tranny was particularly bad when i bought the car though.

Carbon disc engage more progressively.
The hotter it gets - the more it grabs.
Basically, the more you slip it, the better it grabs.
Import racers have been doing this the past few years, and broken transmissions are almost totally eliminated.
The shock of all the torque is reduced.
The carbon clutch will slip initially, but the torque transfer is more mild.
Almost all the top drag Hondas run carbon clutches.

This has nothing to do with my post count.
This has everything to do with you being ignorant on the subject.


-Ted

so im sorry! i read everything! and didnt see what oil was best.

which was the outcome?

redline? Oh one more thing... what about a non-turbo tranny? which oil would be best for mine? I think i posted on this thread a long time ago but forgot about it til now.

I recently changed the transmission fluid on my car. The transmission was rebuilt less than a year ago. I was having trouble downshifting to 2nd and would bounce off of 3rd unless I was granny shifting. I replaced the gear oil with Royal Purple Max Gear. I no longer have any problems with shifting or grinding.

I don't know what was in the transmission before I changed it, but it was red in color.