thats right jackass.. dude why da hell did you call me a jackass? just because i said you had no tools? and you dont im not talking about regular everyday tools i was especifically referring to the flywheel nut wrench, stopeer and removal tool. dude yeah like evryone said is all up to you. and if you are gonna do it be very careful cuz any miscalculations can fuck it up. by the way buy a rear main seal for teh tranny it will prevent it from spilling in the future. also when rebuilding the engine keep teh side seals and corner seals some place where they wont get lost.. I broke 2 side seals and one corner seal doing the rebuild so i had to use my old ones.. also make sure you open the package with the apex seals with scissors and take them out sowly i broke the head of my 3 piece apex seal and had to use superglue to actually be able to put it on the engine.

one of the other reasons i discouraged you from rebuilding was because when you get a rebuidl engine from a reliable mechanic or source such as atkins or kevin landers you dont have to worry about anything.. since you put your trust in them... everyday i find myself asking if i put enough sealnt on the housings or if my rotors will build up enough compression after the rebuild time is over, if i connected the oil pump right or if its with in specs.... in my opinion atkins and kevin actually have the toos required to measure the thickness and width of important parts such as the rotor housings and e-shaft. you will also have to buy a oil pump chain which is about 40 bucks, plus main and stagionary bearings.. and you will cry when you dont have anyone to install those... i had to travel for 2 hours to actually find a place where they coudl install them.

There was only one problem with the rebujild for me. And that was the coolant o rings, I had to rebuild it twice too replace those. But everything else is really easy. A little tip for you, there is no need to glue the apex seals like a few ppl told me.
Also get a extra side seal, corner seal or two. And upgrade to the S6 corner seal springs.
If you do this I would suggest getting the atkins video, just don't take it as gospel.

Well...
 

Heres my take on things

I have never put a rotary motor back togethor. I have taken on out and apart before.

I jsut purchased a $450 winter beater mobile ('88 GXL0 that MAY or MAY NOT have a blown motor. Should I find that the motor is indeed dead. I will be getting the rebuild kit and doing it myself.

HOWEVER, I do have a 3 car garage, a engine hoist, air tools, a milling machine, and a lathe. I figure there is nothing that I can take apart that I can't get back togethor.

Confidence and patience (sp) will get you a long way s IMO

Mike D

I have everything except the flywheel nut remover, but I have a mazda dealer three blocks away and the service manager there will lend it to me for free.

so if i was to rebuild all i need is the engine gasket set let say from mazdatrix and 2mm apex seals?
on mazdatrix and atkins site all i see is 3mm ceramic apex seals.do you guys know a placw where i can get 3mm steel apex seals instead of ceramic?


You can get them from mazdatrix. Under all parts on rotors

But like Mr. Gadget said, your first wise step is getting a rebuild video so you can see first hand what you'll be getting yourself into.

For instance, I fuxored up when I mixed up the front and rear rotors. Its important to keep them in order. The tension bolts all take a degree of skill so you don't slightly tweek the block out the alignment just enough to cause damage.

Also just getting the gasket seal kit is one thing. Putting it on correctly is another. The front cover has a trick to it that if not done correctly will result in poor oil presure.
The oil cooler lines are very brittle and like to break when sneezing...

So you'll also have to replace the parts you might break in the process.

BTW I never used a breaker bar for the flywheele nut.

I used a huge 3/4 inch impact wrench and if memory serves me right a 2 1/8 socket. I got it back on by fabricating an extension pipe for the puny 1 1/2 foot breaker bar I did have.

thanks for thae advice guys.another thing while the rotary is apart are there anything that i can replace or change to further improve engine performance besides port n polish?

Please do not discourage others b/c of your incompetence.
-Breaking side and corner seals is caused by nothing more than sheer neglect.
- Why replace the oil pump chain? Can you name many a significant number of engines that have failed due to an oil pump chain failure? In my experiences, I have never seen it happen.
- How do you not connect an oil pump correctly? it will only bolt on one way.
- The tools required for checking the parts are no better than the home mechanic's if you go with a professional rebuild: dial indicater, micrometer set, straight edge, and set of feeler gauge set. All fo these can be had for under $80 total.
- Almost NO rotaries need to have their bearings replaced during a rebuild. Copper wear is not always an indication the bearing should be replaced.

"Dude, like, yeah" I am not surprised your rebuild failed, you haven't got a clue as to what you are doing. However, just b/c you can't comprehend rebuilding methods and perform them correctly does not mean everyone can't.


$100T2, take it from me, you can do this. Everyone has their first try, and honestly, it is pretty hard to mess up if you set yourself with organization and take your time in assessing wear.
The cases listed above of personal failures are from kids being overzealous and rushed in their assemblies in hopes of getting a fast car as soon as possible, and from sheer ignorance. Follow the FSM and take your time, and you'll be fine.

There a re a lot of other internal modifications that can be done to increase cooling and oiling capabilities of the engine, as well as stregthen the engine for increased rpm capabilities. You simply have to question if your application will require it. There is no sense in polishing the oil passages, adding 3-window bearings, and holley jets in the e-shaft for a street0use 6 port engine.

what are some internal ways to increase cooling?i have s4TII.

Port match the water jackets and groove around the spark plugs. Keep in mind these are both easy to mess up.

Damn straight

Thanks for the support, guys... I figure I have from November until March to get it done, I should be able to handle it in that time... And I've always had confidence in my mechanical abilities... It might have taken a genius to design and build the first rotary, but now it's just the work of a mechanic... Anything one person can build, any of the rest of us can do...

There is no sense in polishing the oil passages, adding 3-window bearings, and holley jets in the e-shaft for a street0use 6 port engine.


I completely agree that one must judge the applications that are going to be used when the new rebuild is installed.

But its not a bad idea to lay the foundations for a motor that will handle a harder load and rpm max with more reliability.

On my next engine I am going to get bearings for greater oil flow and will be putting carb jets in the e-shaft. Along with stiffer oil control ring springs and stiffer corner seal springs etc.

While the engine will be run off bone stock with the exception of the RB down pipe,presielencer etc to begin with...

The reason I'll be doing this first is because when I do get around to putting an atkins supercharge on it I'll have a greater piece of mind that the internal engine components will be able to take the extra power.

Its all in the idea phase so maybe I won't be doing everything I just said, maybe more or less. But than again its all about the forethought of what the engine will be doing later

I certianly don't want to put the super on there and blow the motor up in 10K.

And I also don't want to just rebuild with the stock regularities just so that I can tear her apart again to replace stuff I could have when the engine was already out once before.

sweet dude IM GETTING BANNED!

how much are the gaskets for the rebuild and new housings? (mine are bridgeported and i dont want to spend 1600$ getting it tuned to have my engine have the chance of blowing at any given moment)

Where do you get all your information from? A piston forum? :D :D

I rebuilt mine for under 1000 CDN. With Used housings/rotors. Apex seals are not hard just take very little practice. Buy the video and then decide.