I'm aware of the FD3S having a accelerated warmup system on them, but apparently the JDM FC3S do as well. I broke a tab off my IAC (Intake Air sensor) thus throwing it in loop. 3k rpm...

Attempting to solder a tab back on seems to too just burn out the small resistor.

I don't see much on these forums for jdm s5 motors but, it looks like i'll find out some more...

Unless someone else knows a good answer; nothing else to cause this on a FC. BAC/TPS wouldn't go to warm up temps. Would have the opposite effect and just die on idle, versus a high stable idle.

Usually most members would get a rom tune or a EMS, which overwrite and avoid the AWS.

 

Post some pictures I have some JDM S5 engine parts

 

"JDM" engines are almost the same as any other, so there's not really much to say aside from a few minor differences.

Why not just replace the sensor?

 

I wish replacing stuff was simple as finding a retailer in cow town. Silly sensor like that will take roughly 2 weeks from the states to me.

Easy Fix:?
1.Notably I think my BAC valve is stuck open as well so that might be the other option as 1st gear and throttle blip don't close it.

2.Replace 30 dollar sensor and block off plate with a new coolant line replacing the BAC transfer pipe.

Might as well ask while I'm here any Canadian vendors selling gaskets and sensors, Mr Aaron.

 

Thought I'd offer I do have a JDM BAC and IAT sensor, as Aaron said not sure if they differ at all from the US models, everything else off the engine has been good working order

 

Well, the difference is in model numbers, not sure if spec are identical.

N374 parts arn't on usdm I believe. None the less I found a Air intake temp sensor off a mpv, and I don't have A/C so i'll just use my Rising rpm block off plates which are collecting dust.

If a problem still exists it's going to be TPS related but I doubt that is my issue if tps: as it works aside the accelerated warm up (pedal response)

Still no one has proof or evidence on the definitive parts which are related to the AWS system on a series five. I believe it's just related to the AIT.

 

sure we do, we have the Japanese service manuals, we have the wiring diagrams, and we have the parts catalogs. the JDM cars did not have AWS.

the AWS is the 13-720D up near the top

 

Ok, lets see what I found out today - (13-720)- doesn't seem to be a part I've had on my blocks or friends.

Bac is closed so it's not a case of being stuck open, the AIT I installed is reading at -36C which is incorrect?> Should be at 36C as the coolant is at 34C unless usually reads in the -(negative) range due to style of sensor?

That leaves me a little stumped.

 

I'll idle it into my garage this friday/saturday.

I'll Take off my BAC --- plug my intercooler outlet -- Block off plate --- New coolant line to replace the two on the UIM.

I'll look under and over my setup for loose vacuum lines. Nothing under my Upper now except hard lines and oil injectors + the rails. maybe look into my Air intake temperature wiring futher down to see if something is happening.

I don't see or read this issue anywhere, Can't see a reason for 1,100RPM- re-do fuel system and then it's stuck at 3,000RPM warmup cycle without any outs. (1st gear, throttle blip ect..)

Unless someone can supply any tips on what would cause it too do so I'll be plugging away. I don't see why it would get stuck- even after warmup would result in same situation. Unless someone here would advise using the Idle adjuster screw.

 

I'm not 100% sure, but I've had coolant issues- could this be throttle body related as I had it suspended in several ways, handing bouncing up side down.

A good example would be when I started it up mid winter to get it running and it started and stopped in like 4 seconds and sometime later would start up and stop after I walked away.

Electronically I've never had issues on this harness.

 

Closing thread my issue was the BAC, not responding due to the IAC reading negative readings as (-33C) - Cause sensor at fault - no replacements available in US/CAN Must be replaced with a JDM sensor as reversing the connector isn't an option.

The thermowax was also at fault as with the BAC plug removed the issue remained while running as 12V source removed will dis-engage the actuator and close vacuum source: which never seemed to happen and if it did the ecu did not respond with warmup cycle being turned off).

So- The car idles fine and is easily adjusted via Throttle-body mod and runs poor without a tune.