Try disconnecting the plug to the fuel pump and then follow that with trying to use starter fluid but do it a few different times in series and then reconnect the fuel pump back up. If your engine is indeed flooded then sometimes it requires the above to clear all the excess fuel out of the rotor housing. If you don't disconnect the fuel pump when adding starter fluid then you risk flooding it even more than it possibly is already.

will do once my battery recharges a bit. Also is there a way to adjust the tps without warming the car up. perhaps that may be an issue as well. Hell IDK just frustrated at this point. ive driven the car 1500 miles in 2 years. i just want to enjoy the car for a bit.

To adjust the TPS you would press down on the lever below the thermowax so the roller pin releases from the cam so the primary plate is as closed as it goes and then adjust the TPS. You also might want to rely on jump starting the car so the electrical system is getting enough juice as opposed to relying on a recharged battery.

ok TPS was way off. but i figured that. car still no starty. im gona leave it for a while before i roll it down a hill. and to let the battery charge overnight. its been cranking a lot today and has weakend. but so far:

1. TPS adjusted (to best i can without car warm)
2.Timed properly
3.has spark or wouldnt want to start with starting fluid
4.deflooded 10000x
5.checked maf
6.checked resistor
7.checked relay.

WTF am I missing? sorry just cussing at the car and myself

ok just to make sure fuel lines are in the right order ( which im sure they are) the one from the fuel filter goes to lower fuel rail and other goes to upper fuel rail correct?

My American NA engine has the fuel line going to the top line and the return line is connected to the lower line. JDM's are reversed.

About the fuel lines...

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...51&postcount=6

ok went to wally world and got a few cans of starting fluid. came home hooked battery back up. sprayed some fluid in and unplugged TPS. started up and ran for approx 5-7 second then died. Im assuming due to being out of fuel (starting fluid). give any indication as to what that could be? Ill try plugging the TPS back in and see if i get same result.

Are you sure you have the fuel hoses hooked up correctly? A simple way to check would be to disconnect the end of the return line hose closest to the firewall and place the rubber hose end into a jug. Then turn the key to on. Then jumper the fuel check connector and the jug should quickly fill up w/gasoline. If it doesn't then you either have the hoses connected improperly or their is blockage somewhere in the fuel lines or the pump isn't pumping.

ya i double checked them this morning. the line from fuel filter goes to lower fuel rail------>upper fuel rail------>to hard return line by firewall

im going to run and put a coulple bucks work of gas n my gas can and add some gas just in case. The gauge does say "E" but should have enough in it. but just in case im going to run and get 2 gal worth. If i was to be out of gas this whole time id start a thread so all of rx7club could flame me without a suit on. lol but the plugs are wet everytime ive pulled them

Just check for proper fuel flow as suggested and this will help eliminate certain things.

ok i diconnected the return line. cranked it over and fuel came out. Hooked it back up. It has to be a fuel issue. cause when i spray starting fluid in it starts for a couple seconds. then dies once its out of starting fluid. I just cant figure out y it wont burn the gas the same way.

At the smallest plug to the ECU are 4 Green wires. The LightGreen wire (pin3E) and the LightGreen/Black wire (pin 3C) should have battery voltage w/key to on and w/key to start the voltage should drop. If the voltage drops then the primaries are receiving the ground signal and should be firing if the B/Y wire that powers the injectors has voltage w/key to on.

ok i went and tested the wires:

3E=0 when key in on pos. and roughly .40 when cranking motor
3C=12v when key in on pos and 8v when cranking.

ok well ya i had the same thing with starting fluid and mine was timging related...anyways, im going to go ahead and assume when u took your harness out that you marked each injector plug and injector so you knew which one went where correct?

back to the basics you have fuel, have you used a fuel pressure gauge to see what its really seeing for pressure? spark we know the timing is correct and it is infact firing.
you have tested your air flow meter and know its working.

next i think would be to check fuel pressure and also check to see if the injectors are
firing

ok well u may be on to something with plugs on the injectors. as stated in original post i didnt label the harness. so there is a good chance that maybe the injector plugs may be on wrong. i remember checking it prior to putting on the manifold but it would explain it not starting unless using starting fluid. but flooding everytime i try to start it as normal.

anyone have a link to which wire colors go to which injectors?

3E should test out just like 3C so something is wrong there.

Any suggestions on how to fix? ill go retest them as well jst to be sure.

ok just restested it and same result. 3E was 0

3E is the front primary so if it has a ground then it is open w/key to on and would likely be flooding the front rotor. The Light Green wire at pin 3E gets its battery voltage w/key to on from the ECU so that might be the issue. So disconnect the small ECU plug housing this wire and see if you can take the reading w/key to on from the ECU's pin 3E itself to see if there is battery voltage or not.

EDIT: Also make sure the wire above is not pulled back in the small ECU plug and not making proper contact w/the ECU.

there was very little battery voltage. .4 volts. it was the same all the way across the pins though. the plug still had voltage with key on except 3E.

Which pins are you talking about and did you try to take the reading from the ECU itself and not the small plug?

From the FSM:
Front Primary=Light Green 3E
Rear Primary=Light Green w/Blue Stripe 3C
Front Secondary=Light Green w/White Stripe 3H
Rear Secondary=Light Green w/Red Stripe 3F

With the key on, you can ground each of those wires and listen for the injector click as it opens and closes.

basically i went through the same process i went through earlier just without the plug. i just tested the ecu with no plug.

ok i read the same thing but my wire colors are brown not green