Trying to use what I have to make a beautiful soundstage . I have Boston Acoustic SL 60 component set for the front and rear . I'm not worried about fitting . I'm wondering about hooking the cross over to the front dash speakers . As well the dash speakers will be replaced by Boston acoustics and powered by a 700 + watt rms 4 channel . The bass is going to be a 2000 watt power Boston Acoustic Spg555 . Any suggestions would be much appreciated

 

This is what i do for a living (wish it paid more!).

I havent done any research as to the actual product you are installing, but this is JUST from a sound stage standpoint of my experience.

If you have speakers pointed 90* away from each other, and are running crossovers on both, sometimes you'll get sound cancellation. In this scenario, you lose mid bass from the drivers.

For example: Lets say you install these speakers in to the car with crossovers, and you are lacking midbass, open the doors and you get more bass....you have a speaker phasing issue.

My suggestion is to play with it. Of course, run the tweeters and crossovers up front, but do keep an open mind and try the rears without a crossover and just running the mid-woofers without tweets. Try running both with crossovers and tweets, then just bypass the crossover and tweets on the back and see if it sounds better. I have had several instances where just deleting the crossover on the rears and just running the woofers full range sounded FAR better than having the tweets and crossover. I even had to do this in my own car.

 

I agree , I am just using six speakers . No tweets however , I want to try the 4inch dash speakers as "tweeters" . I know Ill lose directionality of it but I'll get a better stage I think , if I power them through the crossover

 

Mmmm, not sure if that'll work as the crossovers are going to be only delivering the highest frequency to the drivers, sou you may be under utilizing the 4 in woofers cone area.

Are these 4 inch speakers coaxial? If they are, you are wasting time.

 

our cars are tiny. I have just an older type r 10" in a truck box for bass powered by an MRP-500, and PLENTY of bass with lots more room to go on the amp and deck. Still running stock speakers all around off factory amp, and it sounds great. But if youre going big bass you are going to need good AMPED speakers to hear the music. As far as "soundstage", you, as the driver will only notice sound infront of you(ie, door/dash speakers). You could get away with a nice amped component set, driver in door, tweet on dash, or in mirror triangle.

EDIT: im also very biased towards Alpine, as that's what my shop deals in. Some nice Type S Components up front, and some simple coax out back will do you good with a nice amp

 

I just found out that 8 inch subs fit perfectly in the rear strut towers!
I got 6x9's in the bin lids too,so that combo is kind of sufficient for my taste.
up front I have some crappy 4x7 and 4 inch under the dash but they are underpowered.
I still Think that a nice 6 inch in the doors will bring that area some nice sound though.

 

I already installed 6.5 sl 60s in th doors , and have the same in the rear . Now the stock head unit is on its way to a landfill as the AE sucked hardcore . Bad soldering for sure . My issue is impedance . I ran 12 door speakers at 25ohm mono in my exploder . The soundstage was perfect just not stereo due to a 2 channel gt28 . Boston is my favorite of all so its my first and last choice . Ill have to try the 8" mister that wil get rid of a ton of weight , well kinda spgs weigh 26lbs , but still . Thanks guys

 

12 doors speakers?...
a bit excessive me thinks. so a "perfect" soundstage? but not in stereo? lol also how did you manage/why would you run at 25ohms?

 

Build kickpanels... or a-pillar pods... only solution for you.

 

In my experience, on fc3s the (4in) speakers on the dash will ruin your soundstage. I've never been a fan of tweeter (or highs) in the rear, they take away from staging.

If you are dead set in running speakers on the rears, I would do what jjwalker said, run mid lows/lows or a full range (I would use 8ohms speakers for a full range setup)

It all comes down to lots of testing, but the easiest way to get there is as MIDNFauciUSN said, make a kickpanel, and test everything without any sounds coming from the back, and build from there.

 

I just set up a system in an 89. components in the door with the tweeter between the door lock and vent. It sounds beautiful. I didn't use the 4 inch dash spots. I guess I could but it sounds great now.
I did put coaxials in the rear towers and a microsub in the bin. The soundstage is still right up front.
Nak head unit

 

I'm running all Boston also. I've got a convertible so my setup is considerably different. That being said, I have 6.5 Pro components up front, 4in Pro mids in the rear (90-91) convertible have speaker boxes behind the seats, an 8 Pro sub in a fiberglass box under the convertible cover/rear deck. I have a set of spare 5in Pro mids also. Eventually I'll build small enclosures and put them where the 4s are. I'll put the 4s under the dash. I use my small speakers for fill with the amp dedicated to them with gains pretty far down. I wouldn't suggest trying to use a 4 as a tweet, but I'm a purist. I think if a 4in speaker would make a good tweeter they'd be selling them as tweets :P

The Pro 8 is a fantastic sub for it's size, if you can fine one. Obviously it's not going to peal pavement with SPL, so if that's your thing simply use it for fill between your low sub and your mids. But it has the tightest and most accurate sound I've heard in a big speaker. It fits in what would be your storage bin perfectly..provided you build a box for it.

 

Yep. There's a reason why all of the USACi and IASCA cars run kick panels, and a reason why rear speakers aren't allowed.

1. They work
2. Rear speakers destroy any sense of an actual stage

 

^ This guy knows what I am talking about

 

This is what I run...
1990 Rx7 vert.

Alpine MRP-F300 4 channel amp. 50w RMS at 4ohm.
Alpine SPS 610's in the front foors with the crossover set to high pass 80hz+
Diamond audio aluminum 6x9 components. Not using the crossover nor the tweeter. Wired directly to amplifier and ran full range

This setup sounds wonderful. Getting all my high's and mids from the front, and the 6z9's ran at full range supplement the front with mid bass and mid and the lower spectrum of highs.

I had phasing issues with running the crossovers and the tweets was just too much and sounded bad. I didn't think going full range on a 6x9 speaker would sound this good, but it definitely does, and provides a nice rear fill without sounding like you being blasted from front to back. Ideally, I'd run the front on full range as well, but they like to rattle my door panel (dynamat didn't help).