You might not like the advice but perhaps you should detail where each wire(by color) is going to where. This would be the easiest method as opposed to me or any other poster guessing where each wire you have goes to.

Aside from that, the first turn of the headlight switch "must" cause there to be power on the Red/Black wire and the Red/Green wire at CR-02 ( connector to the switch).

Go to the Hazard Flasher unit and "if" you have the Black/Blue wire connected to the right pin and the Black ground wire connected to the correct pin then that leaves 5 pins unspoken for. Then if the pin where the G/R wire would go had voltage on it, which can be jumpered from the B/L wire, that would force one of these unspoken for pins to have voltage. This wire should be the G/B wire and if it has voltage then the left hazard lights should turn on. Same thing goes for the G/Y wire. Jumper voltage to the pin at the the Hazard unit that should house the G/Y wire and another pin should have voltage on it. This pin would normally be connected to the G/W wire and this would cause the right hazards to illuminate. Don't worry about which pin should be connected to the Light Green wire just focus on the other 6 wires. And you would want to disconnect connector X-17 so as to prevent any interference coming from the Turn Switch.

i hate to do this but i think it might be best to start over. the 2nd headlight switch harness matches my first one before i started messing with it. i believe it was correct from the get go. here is how the replacement harness is pinned and i am going to throw the other one in the trash. i REALLY appreciate you helping me on this. :blush: :wallbash:

CR1

B/G X R/W W/G [ ] R/L R/B G/R G/W
B/L R/Y B/R R R/Y X R/G G/Y B

HEADLIGHT SWITCH CONNECTOR

X R/Y R/L [ ] X R/W B/G
R/G W/G R/B B R X B/L B/R

TURN SWITCH CONNECTOR

X B [ ] B/R G/Y
G/W X R/G R/W G/R R/Y

I would suggest you do as stated in my last post and get the units such as the Hazard Flasher Unit working which is basically at the end of the wiring and once you do that you can work your way backwards to the Turn Signal Switch as example, instead of starting at the beginning. If you are not 100% certain what wires go to the pins of the Hazard unit as an example then it makes it that more difficult to diagnose things if you start at what would appear to be the beginning..

I am not getting voltage on the B/L wire. This is with the key out of the ignition, and none of the cluster surround switches hooked up.

LG [ ] G/Y G/W
G/B B/L G/R B

i am not getting voltage on any pins connected to the cpu flasher connector. (with the key out, and no gauge cluster surround switches connected)

That particular wire is powered by the Hazard fuse 24/7 which is then powered by the BTN fuse.

i am getting battery voltage to the firewall side of the BTN fuse. there is no wire in the connector on the other side of the fuse?

i am getting voltage across the BTN fuse. there is no wire on the front bumper side of it but i looked at a couple other fuse blocks i had and they all are the same.

Normally there would be a White/Red wire coming out of the Engine fuse box that runs to the Interior fuse box and powers all of the BTN fuses. Is this the wire you believe is missing?

i am not getting voltage at the hazard fuse.

here is a pic of the connector that goes into the fuse box for the BTN fuse. there is no wire connected where the BTN fuse is. i looked at a couple spare fuse boxes i have and none of them have a wire there.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...531_200135.jpg

That pic is of the two wires that are for the EGI fuse I believe. There is only one wire from the battery that powers up all the Engine box fuses in case you weren't aware of this.

well i am a fucking idiot. i thought the EGI fuse was the one closest to the engine. my cover was on backwards and there was no BTN fuse. all is working now.

:dunce:

...

And what do you mean all is working. You referring to the Hazaed fuse or more.

everything but the turn signals seems to be working. the hazards work, headlights, fog lights, gauge cluster lights, dimmer...

i think i know whats wrong with the turn signals...one second.

That's an improvement. I remember early on you couldn't find your meter and that was when I mentioned the B/L wire needing constant voltage so this prevented the wire from being checked and thus leading to a whole bunch of confusion. Oh well.

the turn signals are not working. all other functions work. the switch does illuminate.

when i try to use the turn signals, the lights in the cluster do not flash either. when i turn my lights on, the turn signal bulbs do illuminate.

they work fine with the hazards on.

Try jumpering voltage to the pin at the Hazard unit in the CPU plug that should be connected to the G/R wire or G/Y wire and it should force voltage onto another pin. This will tell you which wire goes to the pin that had the voltage forced to it. And the B/l wire needs to be connected to the proper CPU pin for this to work. And the ground wire also needs to connected properly.

so run a jumper from the battery to the back side of the G/R or G/Y wire at the CPU flasher unit and leave the connector on the CPU while doing this?

or depin the B/L and B wires, connect them to the cpu flasher unit and run a jumper from the battery to the pins on the CPU flasher unit for the G/R or G/Y wires? (having only 3 wires connected at the CPU flasher unit)

You need to disconnect the plug to the Turn Switch and then go to the Hazard CPU plug and jumper voltage from the B/L to the G/R wire or the G/Y wire and see which lights illumnate as the gauge blue indicator light and one side of the turn signal lights will also illuminate. See what you can create.

As long as the plug to the Turn Switch is disconnected you don't need to do this. Just plug the Hazard CPU unit in and the unit will be powered by the B/L wire.

If G/R receives power then so should G/B and if G/Y receives power then so should G/W.

G/R causes the left side turn signal to work, G/Y causes the right side turn signal to work.

That tells you that all the wires connected to the CPU are good I would think. Now you need to disconnect the plug to the Turn Switch and check for voltage on the B/R wire w/key to on. If present, then jumper the B/R to the G/R and see if you get the very same result as you just got in the test at the CPU. Do the same thing w/respect to the B/R and G/Y.