small engine problem
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From: Southfield, MI
hey huys i have an 88 vert that i bought recently, i have a some questions, searched some. the car starts perfect, but when it warms up it starts like idling fine and then it goes brup and keeps on idling then does it again kinda like misfiring, any help on that? it is missing one muffler on the right side, would that make it do that? and the other question is that my idle is at about 1500 rpms, i havent tried adjusting the idle, but how would i check if i have a vacuum leak and know were its coming from? thanks in advance guys
hey huys i have an 88 vert that i bought recently, i have a some questions, searched some. the car starts perfect, but when it warms up it starts like idling fine and then it goes brup and keeps on idling then does it again kinda like misfiring, any help on that? it is missing one muffler on the right side, would that make it do that? and the other question is that my idle is at about 1500 rpms, i havent tried adjusting the idle, but how would i check if i have a vacuum leak and know were its coming from? thanks in advance guys
A small blurp at constant throttle can be expected to a tiny extent. The idea being that the overlap of the peripheral exhaust port and the intake puts too much exhaust for that occasional ignition.
If it's normal, you won't hear it under load.
If it's normal, you won't hear it under load.
This probably isn't your problem, but when I bought my current car the PO had disconnected the coolant lines to the thermowax on the back of the TB, he said he got the idle down to 1200, but couldn't get it lower.
Like I said, most likely not your problem, but you said the idle adjust wouldn't work, so one other thing to check.
Like I said, most likely not your problem, but you said the idle adjust wouldn't work, so one other thing to check.
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Southfield, MI
This probably isn't your problem, but when I bought my current car the PO had disconnected the coolant lines to the thermowax on the back of the TB, he said he got the idle down to 1200, but couldn't get it lower.
Like I said, most likely not your problem, but you said the idle adjust wouldn't work, so one other thing to check.
Like I said, most likely not your problem, but you said the idle adjust wouldn't work, so one other thing to check.
Setting the TPS
These are instructions to set the TPS which I had previously written for another poster. It's the most used by board members and sets the TPS to factory standards. These instructions assume the user has little to no knowledge of doing this procedure.
: Turn on car and warm up enginge to full operating temp. 15 to 20 minutes or so of driving time should do the job where as just idling the car is a "very slow"way to warm the engine up. If weather conditions are cold then drive for a longer period of time. Five to ten minutes more should do.
Start procedure as follows:
: The hood needs to be open and the lid off the top of the battery needs to be removed.
: With the engine running and make sure all accessories in car such as a/c, heater, radio and so on are off.
: With the screwdriver in hand and multimeter also, place the red lead from the multimeter into the TPS plug where the green with red stripe wire is. Make sure the red metal pin of the multimeter is snuggly tight into the back of the green with red striped wire. The plug you focus on is the plug that is part of the harness (side) which then leads to connecting to the actual TPS device. So you have the plug which is part of the tps and the other plug that plugs into it. You want the "other" plug as the plug in which you place the red lead from the voltmeter.
: Place the black lead of the multimeter on the negative terminal of your battery. This is the ground terminal. The battery will have a negative or minus symbol on top. This is your ground terminal. You don't use the positive terminal of the battery for this particular test.
: Turn on multimeter to measure volts(dcv) and get a reading. It should be 1 volt.
: use screwdriver to set the voltage if it is not 1 volt. Place screwdriver on the screw(one inch in length) which is just in front and to the side of the TPS. This screw which you are looking for is a flat head screw and it is surrounded by a spring located next to the throttle linkage. Turn screw and the voltage will either increase or decrease to reach 1 volt. Make sure as to not put anymore pressure on the screw or it will be pushed down due to the linkage and you will get a faulty voltage reading so turn this adjustment screw very very lightly. Your Tps is now set.
Setting this sensor to one volt comes from the factory service manual but it might not be that perfect setting you are looking for. At least you could use this setting as a base to work off if you feel you can fine tune it even more "if possible."
These are instructions to set the TPS which I had previously written for another poster. It's the most used by board members and sets the TPS to factory standards. These instructions assume the user has little to no knowledge of doing this procedure.
: Turn on car and warm up enginge to full operating temp. 15 to 20 minutes or so of driving time should do the job where as just idling the car is a "very slow"way to warm the engine up. If weather conditions are cold then drive for a longer period of time. Five to ten minutes more should do.
Start procedure as follows:
: The hood needs to be open and the lid off the top of the battery needs to be removed.
: With the engine running and make sure all accessories in car such as a/c, heater, radio and so on are off.
: With the screwdriver in hand and multimeter also, place the red lead from the multimeter into the TPS plug where the green with red stripe wire is. Make sure the red metal pin of the multimeter is snuggly tight into the back of the green with red striped wire. The plug you focus on is the plug that is part of the harness (side) which then leads to connecting to the actual TPS device. So you have the plug which is part of the tps and the other plug that plugs into it. You want the "other" plug as the plug in which you place the red lead from the voltmeter.
: Place the black lead of the multimeter on the negative terminal of your battery. This is the ground terminal. The battery will have a negative or minus symbol on top. This is your ground terminal. You don't use the positive terminal of the battery for this particular test.
: Turn on multimeter to measure volts(dcv) and get a reading. It should be 1 volt.
: use screwdriver to set the voltage if it is not 1 volt. Place screwdriver on the screw(one inch in length) which is just in front and to the side of the TPS. This screw which you are looking for is a flat head screw and it is surrounded by a spring located next to the throttle linkage. Turn screw and the voltage will either increase or decrease to reach 1 volt. Make sure as to not put anymore pressure on the screw or it will be pushed down due to the linkage and you will get a faulty voltage reading so turn this adjustment screw very very lightly. Your Tps is now set.
Setting this sensor to one volt comes from the factory service manual but it might not be that perfect setting you are looking for. At least you could use this setting as a base to work off if you feel you can fine tune it even more "if possible."
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Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
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From: Southfield, MI
i checked the tps and it has no resistance, meaning that the resistor inside the tps is burnt. now when i go wot in neutral the ecu cuts the fuel at 4.5k, then in first it gets up to 3k and then it starts stumbling. now would a broken tps cause that symptom?
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