s5 motor in s4?
s5 motor in s4?
Basically looking for a couple answers, I've recently picked up a s4 gxl, that supposedly has a bad coolant seal, the car has been sitting for about 2 years, and I have not tried starting it, or even thought to pull the motor yet, I've found a s5 motor, but it doesnt have an engine harness, or transmission. Can I swap a na s5 engine into my s4 using my s4 engine harness/trans? If not, what is needed to make a s5 engine work?
you can just drop it in as is and just rewire the s5 injectors
( bypass the ballast resister if the car is an early s4 with low ohm injectors originally )
thus avoiding any drama with timing cover swaps and a whole bag of labour time
you will find the EOMP will be parked in one spot and you may have to premix
or you can hook up the aftermarket EOMP stepper controller from oz and run it from signal from the unused s5 wide range TPS or from a map sensor
that was part of the reason the EOMP controller came about..to be able to drop the s5 engine into an s4 without molesting it or paying the shop hundreds to swap the timing cover and various gaskets
( bypass the ballast resister if the car is an early s4 with low ohm injectors originally )
thus avoiding any drama with timing cover swaps and a whole bag of labour time
you will find the EOMP will be parked in one spot and you may have to premix
or you can hook up the aftermarket EOMP stepper controller from oz and run it from signal from the unused s5 wide range TPS or from a map sensor
that was part of the reason the EOMP controller came about..to be able to drop the s5 engine into an s4 without molesting it or paying the shop hundreds to swap the timing cover and various gaskets
sorry, rotary noob here, eomp? i seem like this would be easier to do rahter than breaking into the motor. Which is the right way to do this? i'm not trying to build anything more than a daily driver, so i can build my fd more for a dedicated track car.
In other words always Use all s4 parts on s4 car. exept flywheel Strip down the block and just use the s5 block and s5 flywheel. I am not sure if you can mix s4 and s5 flywheels. But i would keep the s5 flywheel cause its waited for that engine. But i would use all s4 parts other than that. front cover omp lines injectors
Last edited by rx7_FREAKKK; Oct 6, 2012 at 08:17 PM.
right on, from the link 87 t-66 posted, i must keep the s5 flywheel with the s5 motor. looks like i'm just going to follow the write up in the link he posted, and look further into how to properly take off the front cover without causing any damage to the motor.
the s4 ecu will run the hi ohm injectors no problem
.. late s4 actually have high ohm injectors and a wiring loom that deletes the ballast pack on the earlier car,, both use the same ecu
speaking strickly for the turbo cars-
deleteing the injector ballast pack on the 86/87 FC , changing the injector clips so they suit s5 ,and wiring the eomp controller ( which isnt hard,, easier than a stereo and the new versions are almost plug in ) is ALL you need to do
the s4 ecu and electrics will drive this block no issues, despite a small up in compression ratio,, everything else is the same beyond the turbo scroll flap control that will be redundant on the s5 engine
speaking strickly for the NA engine .. the s5 NA has manifold staging controls that the s4 lacks ,, the s4 ecu will be lost trying to control them
in this situ many choose to refit either the s5 electronics ( which can be very involved including dash ) or refit the s4 manifolds to the s5 block
- which has one pitfall.. as the LIM will need to be modded to cover the ACV port beneath the primary runners ( which is on the s5 block but not on the s4 )
.. late s4 actually have high ohm injectors and a wiring loom that deletes the ballast pack on the earlier car,, both use the same ecu
speaking strickly for the turbo cars-
deleteing the injector ballast pack on the 86/87 FC , changing the injector clips so they suit s5 ,and wiring the eomp controller ( which isnt hard,, easier than a stereo and the new versions are almost plug in ) is ALL you need to do
the s4 ecu and electrics will drive this block no issues, despite a small up in compression ratio,, everything else is the same beyond the turbo scroll flap control that will be redundant on the s5 engine
speaking strickly for the NA engine .. the s5 NA has manifold staging controls that the s4 lacks ,, the s4 ecu will be lost trying to control them
in this situ many choose to refit either the s5 electronics ( which can be very involved including dash ) or refit the s4 manifolds to the s5 block
- which has one pitfall.. as the LIM will need to be modded to cover the ACV port beneath the primary runners ( which is on the s5 block but not on the s4 )
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If the engine has the flywheel on it,just Plop the whole thing in.
make a Block off plate for the Oil metering pump location.Run a "premix" of 1ounce 2 stroke to one gallon of gas to compensate for the "OMP(Oil metering pump) deletion.
take off the Upper manifold and remove the s5 injectors and replace the with the s4 fuel injectors.
Change the small pencil like sender(coolant temp) under the oil pedestal(oil filter) as it may not be compatible with the harness,To S4.(off the old engine).
I think that should get you going.
make a Block off plate for the Oil metering pump location.Run a "premix" of 1ounce 2 stroke to one gallon of gas to compensate for the "OMP(Oil metering pump) deletion.
take off the Upper manifold and remove the s5 injectors and replace the with the s4 fuel injectors.
Change the small pencil like sender(coolant temp) under the oil pedestal(oil filter) as it may not be compatible with the harness,To S4.(off the old engine).
I think that should get you going.
could i just cut the s4 harness to accept the s5 sender? the engine harness on the s5 is all kinds of cut up, but has all the sensors on it. apparently it had a standalone, but the standalone got stolen, then the PO sold it to the guy who is selling the the motor, and now the trans but apparently its unknown what is done to the motor. guess if it starts brapin i should look into better engine management, lets hope it runs first though lol. for the price, i had to take the gamble. so now i have another question, will a s5 trans bolt up to a s4 drive shaft?
Water temp sensor - just buy an aftermarket one that has a 1/8th npt sender and put it in the stock place. It'll be more accurate and the computer doesn't need the stock one only the thermosensor and temp switch.
I did turbo s5 into s4, rewiring required: tps, o2 sensor, bac valve, injectors. I removed all the emissions and blocked off the omp and premixed. One other problem you may run into would be throttle cable bracket.the s5 one on the engine was by far in the wrong place but luckily I had another manifold with different style bracket lying around and it went straight on.
I did turbo s5 into s4, rewiring required: tps, o2 sensor, bac valve, injectors. I removed all the emissions and blocked off the omp and premixed. One other problem you may run into would be throttle cable bracket.the s5 one on the engine was by far in the wrong place but luckily I had another manifold with different style bracket lying around and it went straight on.
ok, well i still have my complete s4 motor, so i guess i can use parts off that as needed. i'm not trying to make it fast, just get it running, and hopefully running reliably. i have my fd for the go fast stuff, just looking to make a clean daily out of the fc. it has mint original paint, and interrior. just, for the price, as long as the s5 motor is good, it'll be cheaper getting it, instead of buying a rebuild kit/replace any damaged parts.
I just did this swap. The easiest route is to just get a standalone ecu. I got a Haltech sprint RE for mine. That way you don't have to take 2 engines apart to make 1 run. Have it wired in by someone and fire it up
This way will save you a lot of time and headache. It was gonna cost me about the same to get everything spliced in as it did to just buy a Haltech and get it wired in. I think I paid about 100-200 more this way but I have a standalone...
This way will save you a lot of time and headache. It was gonna cost me about the same to get everything spliced in as it did to just buy a Haltech and get it wired in. I think I paid about 100-200 more this way but I have a standalone...
And as far as the Oil metering pump.
Run premixed gas. Or.
They sell an adapter that will make your electric one run like a mechanical one.
Oil inject. Pump Adpt
There's also a way to use the s4 omp but I think you'd need your Upper intake manifold from an s4 also, not sure on that route.
Run premixed gas. Or.
They sell an adapter that will make your electric one run like a mechanical one.
Oil inject. Pump Adpt
There's also a way to use the s4 omp but I think you'd need your Upper intake manifold from an s4 also, not sure on that route.




