I am in a similar situation here. I got a 86 gxl i picked up for like a few hundred bucks and got a jdm s5 block on sale. no harness/ecu.

i have the option to buy a blown s4 t2 set up. what would be the best option? transfer the s4 manifold, harness etc over to the s5 block?

If you dont have any TII ECU and harness you will have to get one. If you get blown S4 TII with ECU and harness, it will be much easier to use just JDM shortblock an put everything else from s4 motor, including fuel rails, front cover with OMP, water pump, manifolds etc. I would consider keeping S5 turbo and turbo manifold, but you have to get S4 airbox etc ...

Your answer to everything is standalone.

Hey, I'm having a little trouble with one of the battery lines. There is an "extra" line (meaning I don't know where it goes) around the starter area under the car. It is black with a yellow strip, and I think that it's a ground. It's not too far away from the starter cable either. Does anyone know where it goes?

okay, last question was stupid, but now I actually have one that I need help with. I have rewired the fuel pump and everything, but the only problem now is that I cant get the engine to stay started. It will turn over, and then kill over about a second later. <BR>
Is it bad fuel, idle or what?

common rebuild problems:
low compression: push start
switched primary and secondary fuel rails: switch them back
vacuum leak: will be hard to find with a non-running engine, i'd check blockoff plates and all the lines and clamps and what not.
sounds you like you might also have a bad AFM or a poorly hooked up AFM. I have an S5 T2 one for sale if you think that might be the problem.

I'm in the middle of the same swap, but I'll be using a standalone, so good luck!

If it seems to run quite smoothly and than dies quickly, it is usually AFM. During starting, fuel pump is switched on directly by starter circuit. After start, pump runs only when it gets switched by AFM. Try to check if fuel pums stops sooner than motor (use voltmeter, bulb, led or whatever).

I followed the wiring diagram that I found at this site http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/rewire.htm
but the only problem is that I don't have the relay that usually goes with the turbo car. Instead, I just hooked up the 1K connection from the ECU to the "Power Out" on the "bought relay" -> + connection on the pump.
It seems to me that the message isn't being sent from the ecu to the pump. I figure that I will open up the ecu hold again and check the connection, but will I also need to find a TII relay?
Also, does anyone know what size of bolt and thread to use on the three screws that connect the turbo to the downpipe?

1K selects speed of the pump, it switches from 12volts to 9volts. if you dont have resitor pack with relay from TII you dont need to use 1K at all. Prehaps you will have a bit larger fuel consumption while cruising.
Use original power wire to switch the relay.

Fixed the problem, I've got the whole thing up and running now, well kind of. I still have to get a mid-pipe to connect the cat to the downpipe.
I have another quick question. On the JDM wiring harness, I didn't see any of the hook ups for the windshield wiper motor and also I have lost the glow behind my dials after the transition. and if that wan't enough, I have also lost the abuility to fully open my sunroof. It open to the first stage, but won't roll back to full open. Any help on these problems would be appreciated.

Im on the same situation here, bought a 88 se with a jdm T2 and wiring harness and same n374 ecu. was only 600 bucks from a friend. only engine and trans are installed.

this threads 3 years old

time for a revival of the thread!