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-   -   Rust rust rust.... bent caliper mounts, seized rotors HELP! (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/rust-rust-rust-bent-caliper-mounts-seized-rotors-help-1031021/)

NYsNumba1Man 03-31-13 02:16 PM

Rust rust rust.... bent caliper mounts, seized rotors HELP!
 
Hey whats up guys, I have an s4 GXL and decided to do a complete brake system overhaul and i've gotten stuck.

The rears were decently straight forward. Replaced the rear calipers, pads, rotors, lines. Came to the front. Its my belief that the rotors on the car were the original 25 year old rotors (my brakes are terrible) The screws holding the rotor on were seized so i drilled them off and tried hammering the rotor for about... 2 hours. Neither were budging at all with my hammering and prying so i came up with the idea of putting the caliper bolts on by themselves and tighten them to the point they start pushing the rotor off. That with prying and hammering i got one rotor off but when i was trying to put the new caliper on it i realized i bent the mounts slightly and they aren't going on. What can i do about that? I can't afford to buy 2 new front hubs now.... and i bet those are rusted to shit too. I'm trying to find some DIYs or something but i can't find anything for the FCs


Also does someone have a correctly loaded FC caliper picture? Some idiot RTVd my old caliper pins so they wouldn't slide out and i don't want to do that. i want to properly use the pins i got with the new calipers. Any DIYs or tips? please i want to get this taken care of ASAP because my cars currently sitting without any front calipers

Thanks in advance!

DC5Daniel 03-31-13 02:28 PM

Man...that stinks to hear. It sucks that the mounts bent, hard to believe the rotor didn't budge before then! IMO you will never be able to get the mounts aligned 100% perfect again, so there is no harm in attempting to "persuade" them into submission before being stuck with replacing them. I know you said you couldn't afford new hubs right now, but they can be obtained very cheaply from the classifieds forum or local part out. Good luck.

NYsNumba1Man 03-31-13 02:29 PM

To give you the idea of how much rust i'm talking about. I spent about 10 hours total trying to get everything off

https://24.media.tumblr.com/e280e9bb...jxtno1_500.jpg

https://24.media.tumblr.com/bfccbc67...jxtno1_500.jpg

https://25.media.tumblr.com/f8f5d6fe...jxtno1_500.jpg

https://25.media.tumblr.com/b08fc255...jxtno1_500.jpg

The backs came out so clean and so easy
https://25.media.tumblr.com/da01e40d...jxtno1_500.jpg

Hatchet Jack 03-31-13 08:46 PM

Man, I hate rust. Those knuckles are probably done now, so I'd use them as much as possible to get the rotors off. Maybe try turning in those bolts again for pressure, then peel back the rotor shroud enough to hit on the rotor with a sledge hammer if you've not done so already.

On my caliper pins on the front, I put a small bit of antiseize on them where they contact the aluminum calipers. I also lightly painted the bleeder threads with anitseize, making sure it wasn't near the inside of the screw. I didn't get carried away with the stuff; it's just to prevent dross from making stuff stick.

NYsNumba1Man 03-31-13 08:58 PM

Where can i get new knuckles from? I'm afraid if i get them off some guy parting out they'll be just as messed up. These cars are getting to be 20-25 and i'm sure everyone elses cars are rusting and seizing up and bent

Hatchet Jack 03-31-13 09:19 PM

Well, there's always custom knuckles for more steering angle if that's your thing. Those might cost a bit, though. You could find a rotary junkyard nearest you. They'd hook you up.

Just a random thought, you could try straightening them out as best you can then have a machine shop or a buddy mill the important side flat as long as it doesn't take too much material out. I can't quite remember what the knuckles look like, so I don't know if this is feasible or not. On the other hand, this is a pretty important structure of the vehicle, so maybe the cheapest way out isn't the best... up to you!

NYsNumba1Man 03-31-13 09:40 PM

No junkyards around here have any rx7s...ever hahaha

I appreciate your help though

Hatchet Jack 03-31-13 09:55 PM


Originally Posted by NYsNumba1Man (Post 11424595)
No junkyards around here have any rx7s...ever hahaha

I appreciate your help though

There's Rhinehart's Auto Parts in Pa. I've not dealt with them, but they say they'll ship out their stuff. I found them on the Craigslist. I'd think quite a few rotary salvage yards would ship out their stuff, being a specialty market and all. Keep in mind, beggars can't be choosers; something I don't like...

NYsNumba1Man 03-31-13 10:00 PM

The sad truth...

midnightbluefc 03-31-13 10:14 PM

i just swapped out my old 24 year old brake lines for new SS ones and man they were rusted and fused together soo bad i had to soak them in PB blaster over night for 2 days and torched those sluts off...luckily the 10mm fittings didnt strip... well, 1 kinda did. nothing some new channel lock pliers count fix..:)

NYsNumba1Man 03-31-13 11:20 PM

Hopefully i wont have as much trouble with my new ss lines. Did they really help with pedal feel/firmness?

clokker 03-31-13 11:31 PM


Originally Posted by NYsNumba1Man (Post 11424713)
Did they really help with pedal feel/firmness?

Not any more than a new rubber hose would have.

midnightbluefc 03-31-13 11:41 PM

i haven't actually drove it yet i just started working on it yesterday. and as clokker said it shouldn't make that much of a difference i just got them because i was gonna change my rotors and brakes i figured id change them now. plus im glad i changed them out. the old ones where looking kinda frail.

misterstyx69 04-01-13 12:31 AM

so,just to get this correct,did this happen because the rotors were seized to the hubs and you tried to get the hub and rotor to separate by using the caliper bolts?
If your rotors are still stuck to the hubs PM me,I can tell ya how to get them off with a grinder.it's tedious but it won't wreck the hub.

NYsNumba1Man 04-01-13 01:11 AM


Originally Posted by midnightbluefc (Post 11424733)
i haven't actually drove it yet i just started working on it yesterday. and as clokker said it shouldn't make that much of a difference i just got them because i was gonna change my rotors and brakes i figured id change them now. plus im glad i changed them out. the old ones where looking kinda frail.

This is the same mentality I had, so i went with the goodridge lines



Originally Posted by misterstyx69 (Post 11424776)
so,just to get this correct,did this happen because the rotors were seized to the hubs and you tried to get the hub and rotor to separate by using the caliper bolts?
If your rotors are still stuck to the hubs PM me,I can tell ya how to get them off with a grinder.it's tedious but it won't wreck the hub.


Yes, precisely. You sir have a PM

NYsNumba1Man 04-01-13 03:49 PM

So worst case scenario i'm going to find some new front knuckles

Couple questions

Is there a difference between s4 and s5 knuckles? Can i buy 4 lug knuckles and swap my 5 lug hubs onto them? The caliper mounts for them are all the same right?

misterstyx69 04-01-13 06:25 PM

they are the same.If you don't want to screw with the brake dustshields then just use yours from your 5 lug setup.
the 4 lug needs to be "massaged" a wee bit.
I put the 5 lug hubs/rotors/calipers on a 4 lug setup without any mods( other than bending the dustshield back a tad.)

NYsNumba1Man 04-01-13 06:27 PM

Alright thanks, if I can't get the mounts straightened out with a blowtorch and some hammering looks like I'm buying some new knuckles

misterstyx69 04-01-13 11:51 PM


Originally Posted by NYsNumba1Man (Post 11425541)
Alright thanks, if I can't get the mounts straightened out with a blowtorch and some hammering looks like I'm buying some new knuckles

Honestly I wouldn't even trust them now.
If you do not get them Straight or back to the original position,then the caliper will sit all Cock-eyed to your rotor and will give you Nothing but Problems.

NYsNumba1Man 04-02-13 02:35 PM

3 Attachment(s)
After some PB, a sledgehammer, and a wire wheel....

Attachment 494622

Cleannnnn.



Attachment 494623

Rears ready for bleeding



Attachment 494624

Dat camber


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