Rtek 1.7+TD06-20g=AFR: 12.0:1!?
 

Tested my rtek 1.7+TD06-20g combo today with my wideband and i had around 12.0@10psi.

Good or bad??
The car pulled like crazy!!!!! and ran very smooth and nice!

Mods:

-Greddy TD06-20G externally gated
-walbro
-SAFC2
-3" turboback
-Custom TID
-Fully modded TB
-720cc secondaries
-STOCK TMIC AT THE TESTING TIME
-Wideband
(PLX-M300)
-Blitz dual SBC-type S
-Removed emissions
-Blitz super sound
-No ABS and so on

And by the way..... G-tech says about 275hp at the crank :-P

that is good.

12.0:1 sounds about right for 10psi, at least on a "safe" tune.

-=Russ=-

okey...good to hear. Allthou I just tuned it to about 11.5 just to be safe.

But what is the lean limit when tuning a rotary at about 10-11psi?
12.2-12.5??

I won't lean out more then 12.0 anyway.... I'am just courius :-D

good god your running that turbo with an rtek :wtf: crazy shit man! Let us know how it turns out in a few weeks :) I think ottoman was wanting info on the same setup because he was thinking about going this rout but everyone was saying to go full standalone with that turbo. Holy shit and only 720cc secondaries??? Oh damn and all on tmic???? Boy you got bigger balls then me :biggrin:

it doesnt matter if it ison a retek,orstockecu, or just afc, or emanage
12AFR IS 12AFR

how hard isit to understand? there is nothing wrong with what he is doing...

i personally would put bigger secondaries in there.. try to get it down to 11.5 at least.. you should at least be there at 10psi. id aim for that but good to hear its working for you for now

the stock ecu and even the rteck chipped ecu is made to handle only so much to a point and that turbo is good for well over stock levels so first a 550/720cc combo is not going to support enough fuel for that turbo also a tmic with that turbo is just asking for high intake temps and lastly the STOCK ecu with only an rtek chip is not going to give him the kind of timming control he is going to need for that turbo. Yes 12 is 12afr but thats only part of the equation.

uhhhh
you can go pretty far with a stock ECU as long he has his fuel right. his timing should be around there too - not optimal,but around there.
it will work great.

high intake temp? are you saying a different ECU woudl lower the intaketemp?

a 550/720 combo is obviously enough for 10 psi - esp when he had already tuned to 11.5

why do you have to bash his setup when you have NO EXPERIENCE with what he is doing?


there are many ways to do it - obviously, yours isnt the only...
there is a guy local here who made 433rwhp with stock ecu, aic, fmic, tuning, and a t04s
the stock ecu can definately go far if it gets some support from piggies and bandages

FMIC is allmost done!!

And yes....now am i running at 10PSI@11.6:1 AFR all the way to the redline.

Can't wait to fit my FMIC and 720/1000 combo and get it tuned with both EGT and wideband...just to get some proof of what you can accomplish with stock ECU.

I am going to fit microtech in the winter aswell so don't worry, and by the way..... i will probably rebuild and port my engine so i am not to afraid with my engine

What is the stock AFR? 14.7? I assume that's stoich... But 12 is pretty rich isn't it?

Or is that only for WOT?

lol speak of the devil and he shall appear...


according to Ted.. he said "be careful"

the 720/550 combo is good to roughly 310 RWHP... so u still have some head room to go...


p.s. my eyes lit up when i saw this thread.. cuz i'm in the exact same boat

SAFC2+rtek 1.7 except i have a greddy front mount

i'll be watching this one for awhile :)

I think everyone without an EMS is in the same boat, lol.

I will keep you updated!!

And remember one thing.....not that i am sure it mathers but this test was done with the SWEDISH version och the 99octane pump gas "shell v-power" and with 10degrees celsius in the verý foggy air :-D ..just for the record

Also remember that the rtek 1.7 does retard timing a little not a lot but it does retard timing a little as an fyi

I don't believe the RTEK guys designed their product to use such a BIG turbo like that - please consult them about it first!

Second, if that 12.0 is a true reading, it's TOO LEAN.
Yeah, it'll feel good, but you're going to eventually pop the motor - check the spark plugs.
I'd be scared to run anything above 11.5, and I would rather have it at least low 11's like 11.2 or lower.


-Ted

*cough* 100octane.

is that RON PON or MON

cuz japan is supposedly 100 as well.. but it's not =USA 100


btw i forgot to ask
on the stock turbo boosted to around 12psi.. on the AFC the AFM % reds 99%!


what's your reading?

hes from swedon running 100 octane gasoline
ted is wrong.... *Isigh* i guess when peoplek are overly conident, they make alot of mistakes...

12.0:1 is not safe. anywhere UNDER 12.0:1 is usually safe, but you're skating on detonation at 12.0:1

why do you have a big 20g and a stock remapped ECU? get a smaller turbo or an EMS and some more fuel.

edit: ok then, keep that 100+ octane fuel in there 24/7 i guess... ???

if you where actually reading my thread rather than trying to bash me for "bashing his setup" then you would understand why I think his intake temps are going to be high. Read my post again I named three things I felt he needed to change, lets go over this again class.

top mounted intercooler
ecu
injectors

Now the top mounted intercooler as we all know is not very efficiant when it comes to much more over stock especially with a big bad turbo like that one. also his injectors only support 300 or so hp and he is deffinatley going to be over 300hp. also his ecu for timming and other things that a standalone does so much better. So now that I just retyped my last post now you may get what I was getting at but odds are probably not. Anyways He has fixed his intercooler and injector setup so now who knows may work just fine. If anything I hope his setup works great for ottomans sake and for my own because I don't have a standalone either and I will soon be running a large streetport with a bnr stage III on rtek / fmic / and 550/890cc combo.

I don't think his setup is about someone being right or wrong. It is all about margin for error.

So, we still need to know if the Swedish 99 Octane is Pump Octane? Because 99 Research Octane basically equals 94 PON. In other words, it's just regular gas, not anything fancy.

Look....i AM GOING TO FIT THE MICROTECH and the fmic is already mounted as we speak!
But when i did the tests i tuned it with the SAFC to about 11.6 later that night.

1000cc injectors is fitted on the secondary fuel rail and the 720's is moved to the primary...this for about 20 minutes ago.

I think it is 99 octane RON!?..not sure thou.
Spark plugs indicated a LITTLE LITTLE bit to lean...still brown not wite but to "light brown" if you understand me.

And by the way... the wastgate vacumhose popped off at one time with boostclimb to about 1 bar... AFR in the mid 13's THATS BAD but i did a compression test and still 115psi all the way around. Engine still alive (lucky one i know)

Next month i will fit the microtech and get it tuned on a dyno!
New figures then :-D

Actually, that's way too lean if we're talking on boost.
The color you describe sounds like normal spark plugs you pull...which have been running 14.7 closed-loop stoic under cruising.
The spark plugs should come out a little flat black to indicate it's running slightly rich.
The extra gas is to prevent detonation under boost - it's not for more power.
"Ideal" power is around 12.7 to 12.8 (for non-turbo), but boosted engines are too dangerous to be running that kinda AFR's, so the richer mixtures are recommended.


-Ted

just want to add...the sparkplugs were brand new!
Only been in the engine for about 30 minutes MAX.
I guess they will get darker the more you drive??

Ted, I'm wondering how reading the spark plugs relates to a (supposedly) correctly tuned car. My car is tuned lean for cruising (14.7-15.3 AFR), but under boost I am around 11.4-11.5 AFR.

My car sees a lot more cruise than boost, so the plugs (NGK Iridiums) are usually a dark tan color near the electrode and a darker brown near the threads. That sound about right?

(Before my car was tuned, they used to be almost wet black).

Thanks.

Yeah, old hot rodders trick.
This is easier down the drag strip. :)
You run the car hard and shut the engine off, and let the car coast.
This is not exactly convenient on the street!
But you get the idea...

Even driving around, if you're boosting most of the time, it takes a while for those rich deposits to burn off...

What you looking for mostly is the *absence* of leaning.
No white center insulator...
No beads of metal anywhere on the tip of the spark plug...
At least this is telling you you're not hurting the motor! :)


-Ted

ted, lets make love

You're note Asian... be prepared for rejection!

Nothing an extreme makeover can't fix....

i am 100% USDM baby

Technically, so are a lot of Asian cars... er...people.

Just wondering, but would the narrow-band A/F gauge they sell on RX7.com be enough for tuning a 13BT? At least without a massive turbo setup...

Just how high can you go on a piggyback anyway? hehe

don't bother a narrowband!

piggyback....honestly if you want to be safe... nothing bigger then a small hybrid!

I KNOW my setup is no good but i don't care since i am going te do a rebuild before i get my microtech tuned in the spring 2006. Don't wanna blow my turbo thou...

Incorrect. That car had a custom reprogrammed stock ECU with the AFM converted to blow-through, two additional injectors, and 34efi extra injector controller that was programmed via wideband and laptop. The guy that made it also has lots of experience tuning RX-7s.

and how is that different than what i said? :uhh:


are you trying to be cute or you just cant read?

How about it isn't a stock ecu anymore?

Look, the MAF is converted to blow-through and is relocated, the ECU has been taken out of the car and the ignition and timing curves have been altered and modified by an aftermarket company (not Mazda). Can i go to a Mazda dealership and get a UPRD/G-force reprogrammed ECU with blow-through AFM compatibility and have a "stock" car?

I guess hybrid turbos are still stock turbos, too, right? Seems like you're really stuck on names.

The fact is, the guy is running a chipped (read: NOT STOCK) ECU with a turbo setup different from what the chip is used for. That's what people are going "uhh..." about. Sure, he could fuck with his SAFC-II to change the AFRs, but the fact is that he's still running a base fuel/ignition map meant for a car with a different setup, and it WOULD run better with a custom chip/full standalone. He CAN continue with this car, this way, as long as he keeps his AFRs where they are now, but he's not maximizing its potential.

Noooo the ECU is stock, the programming that's on the chip isn't ;)

Why do you say "converted" to blow-thru AFM?

Then the ECU isn't stock, nor is the chip usually, since they're not very easily reprogrammed.

Yeah, sorry, I'm into Asian women.
Since you're not Asian or a woman, that means doubly rejected? :eek:

Man, I'm dropping too many of my "secrets" - I dunno if you guys are catching all of that. :D
Maybe I should shut up now!


-Ted

We reprogram the stock chips all day long :P

Programming the chips isn't hard, however desoldering the board and installing a socket with which you can make the chip easily insertable and removable is another story altogether ;)

exactly! :) stock ecu! :smiley309
btw, i ordered the CS rear strut bar... when do you thinkm it iwll be shipped out? :)

Ah, I figured they would use non-electronic erasables on there, requiring a similar atmel replacement, oh well, it's still a ways from 'stock'. I still don't see the point, if you're crafty you can get a full blown standalone for under $250 that will provide you with a whole lot more ability!



For you Ted, he would be!

Since it's for you?


NEVER!

Actually Ted on a N/A vehicle optimum power is created at 13.5:1 AFR given all other aspects of the engine are tuned properly.