rebuild help
 

Im about to do rebuild my 13b and this is my first rebuild. so i dont know exactly what internal parts i need. the problem with the engine is the oil rings but i dont know what else must be bought besides that.

figure it out when you tear it apart and spec everything out.

or order the master kit for just about anything questionable.

If you have questions feel free to ask. I just did mine.. and its running strong. If you want to know what you can reuse and what to not reuse just ask.. most important parts that need to be new is the inner and outer jacket seals. side seal springs. and apex springs. and oil conrol Orings. but you should cheack all parts and bearings to make sure they are not worn to bad,
Depending on what has failed on your engine!

Im going to inspect it anyway but my issue is bad oil rings it smokes a lot. I know you ^^^ know more than me about this im just learning but why would i replace the apex seal springs if all i really need is the oil rings. The Jacket seals are the ones on the housings right? I went to the atkins and mazdatrix website but i got confused there looking at parts.

You dont have too.. but if you pull the engine apart You want to make sure the compression is back up or better than it has been. I had the same problem with my engine. it was the Oil control rings. BUT i replaced other parts.. Since i have it apart. So it will last longer. How many miles this engine have? if you have it apart might as well make sure your apex seals are within spec.. and the springs always get weak due to heat. So its not a bad thing to replace springs

Things you MUST replace when rebuilding any rotary:
*Water seals
...The end XD

Things you SHOULD replace:
*...No idea until it's taken apart

:)
A friend and I rebuilt a 188K S5 NA engine and reused literally everything except the water seals and one broken plate, and it's run perfectly ever since. [Well, AFAIK - it got stolen a week or two ago... >_<]

I bought it rebuilt. Im not sure but according to the guy it had just a couple of thousand miles. My guess is they did the rebuild wrong.

really all you need to do is pull everything apart, organize it so you can locate parts easy and it makes everything go back together faster, and then look at every part and look for possible adnormalitys that could be a cause for replacement. well your in the guts of the engine you mind as well replace all the seals and gaskets too. i myself have never rebuilt a rotory but i have rebuilt a few 4bangers and V8's, the process is all the same.

I had rebuilt mine recently..... https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/87-na-streetport-rebuild-967170/
I bought a video from Atkinsrotory about rebuilding the motor and a video from Mazdatrix about porting. There are also a lot of good video's from aaroncake (On Youtube) that really came in handy! You never know what you are in for until you get in there. Good Luck!

Check out Aaron cakes videos before you purchase the atkins rebuild video. Ive heard good things about the atkins video but why spend the money when. Aaroncakes video basically goes over it all and its free. That's the only video i used for my first rebuild and admitidly I was intimidated, but with the video iI was a little mor confident.

A few pointers i have from my first experience:
-have the fsm on hand like a preacher has his bible. ESPECIALLY if you are reusing parts.

-Spec all parts you plan to use as per fsM standards. I know some guys say some tolerances to be more or less than fsm standards but thatll give you a better baseline for specs.

-if resuing parts, ORGINIZATION AND CLEANLINESS IS KEY. You cant spec out a dirty part. And if reusing seals, they need to go in the exact same place as when removed.

-when in doubt, replace it. A new seal is a drop in the bucket compared to having to take your engine out again and rebuild it again just because those oil control rings you suspected as bad,failed like you thought it would and decided to gamble.

-when you go to rebuild the engine, make sure you have everything you need and do it all at one time. Don't assemble one rotor housing and rotor and leave it for a day or 2 and then come back and finish. Things get lost this way, or you put the seals out of order or any number of things could happen.

-for a first assembly I reccomend a helping hand. Dropping in the intermediate plate is a pain for the first time.


That's about all I can think of for now. Quite a few things i stated have been posted here before as well. I also recomend replacing all coolant seals and oil control seals. They arent very expensive especially for the piece of mind. Atkins sells the whole soft seal kit for like $157.

I saw your thread. Nice build man

Thanks for your input on this. I have the video from aaroncakes plus the haynes book. that should be more than enough. I should do it in a couple of days since my brother and uncle are going to help me do it. I am trying to find all the parts locally because this month is not good to be ordering stuff online. takes too long to be delivered

quite the opposite, many of the parts i sent out this month arrived ahead of schedule, in some cases overnight with standard shipping.

Thanks

I am thinking about porting the exhaust up a bit. exactly what will i gain by making the exhaust close a bit later?

more overlap.

the higher you go the lumpier the idle, less fuel efficient and more exhaust to intake mixing. all for maybe nothing, perhaps even reduced performance. porting more into the intake stroke is already almost maximized in the stock port location.

Im just curious about porting, so if going up is not good then why people do it? Or even go down

the port location is fine, the point is to get more surface area opened up. not to go more up or down with the port.