Reaffirming the importance of grounding!
04-24-03, 04:11 PM
#41
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I have a big maze of ground wires going around my engine bay. They all contact one another at some point heh 
I currently have a 4 gauge wire from the stock pos terminal going to my battery in the back of the car, a ground wire going from bat neg to the body of the car at the back, and also running up to the engine bay on the pass side.
But Im going to be taking a second positive from the alt to the pos battery terminal, taking a second negative from the battery to the starter and the coils, and connecting that into the rest of the ground system.
In total Ill probably have 6 new ground points in the engine bay.
I currently have a 4 gauge wire from the stock pos terminal going to my battery in the back of the car, a ground wire going from bat neg to the body of the car at the back, and also running up to the engine bay on the pass side.But Im going to be taking a second positive from the alt to the pos battery terminal, taking a second negative from the battery to the starter and the coils, and connecting that into the rest of the ground system.
In total Ill probably have 6 new ground points in the engine bay.
04-24-03, 04:17 PM
#42
Originally posted by jreynish
I am currious if you took, 24 inches of 1guage wire then connect it to a metal plate plummed with six holes, then from these six holes would be the following with;
4 gage = alternator
= leading coil
= trailing coil
6 gage= block or intake
= tranny most likey one of the mounting points of starter
= Firewall
then after the wires are all conected to the metal plate dip it in a melted plastic and coat it with plastic to keep from corrosion;
This is what i had planned on doing anybody?
I am currious if you took, 24 inches of 1guage wire then connect it to a metal plate plummed with six holes, then from these six holes would be the following with;
4 gage = alternator
= leading coil
= trailing coil
6 gage= block or intake
= tranny most likey one of the mounting points of starter
= Firewall
then after the wires are all conected to the metal plate dip it in a melted plastic and coat it with plastic to keep from corrosion;
This is what i had planned on doing anybody?
Except you obviously need to leave some metal exposed on the plate, otherwise there's no ground.
Last edited by JerryLH3; 04-24-03 at 04:20 PM.
04-24-03, 05:26 PM
#44
Are you sure you don't want to buy it for $152? Or maybe this one for $240:
Just a bit overpriced in my opinion. I bought 2 AWG wire from Lowe's for $0.99/ft. I imagine the entire charging sytem could be rewired with additional grounds for $50.
Just a bit overpriced in my opinion. I bought 2 AWG wire from Lowe's for $0.99/ft. I imagine the entire charging sytem could be rewired with additional grounds for $50.
04-24-03, 06:07 PM
#47
Refined Valley Dude
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Originally posted by Amur_ a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away...
I got a little happy with ground wires on my NA FC, both to help my alternator and to chase the 3800 stumble (which I finally did eliminate.)
Using 6-gauge automotive wire (make sure it's the multi-strand automotive wire - don't use anything else - and don't use anything smaller than 10 gauge) I installed a ground wire:
1) from the negative battery terminal to the chasis (the outer bolt holding the master fuse block in place on front of the strut tower.)
2) from the alternator's tension adjusting bolt to the battery's negative terminal.
3) to replace the ground wire on the backside of the engine (running from the tranny housing to a nut up by the wiper motor.)
4) on the ECU harness in the passenger footwell. But this was a 3800 stumble fix and may not be for you. I don't have the desc. in front of me but a write-up does appear in a few FAQs out there... Also added a ground at the air boost sensor for the 3800 fix (which was what finally nixed it.) I used 12 gauge wire for these two lines, btw.
5) to replace the main engine ground (from behind the plugs/under the oil filter to the chassis.)
6) from the y-pipe (where your exhaust splits to go out to your mufflers) to the chassis. There's supposed to be a factory ground there, but 15 years on the road tends to nuke them.
You might consider adding grounding straps to the back of your car, too. I haven't, but that's because I'm willing to forgoe whatever the benefit is rather than sport attachments that I think look retarded. I don't have tassels on my coat and I'll be damned if I'll have any on my rotary rocket.
Make sure that all your connections are clean. Scrape away paint and remove any dirt or oil. Use an external tooth washer between each connector and the surface, if you can. And tighten the hell out of it. Use a spray-on enamel or good-sized dollop of di-electric grease on all the ground points to inihibit corrosion (if they start to rust they won't be as effective - my boost-sensor ground started to corrode not long after I put it in - I first noticed it when the stubmle started re-appearing! I cleaned it up and nailed it with di-electric grease and she's been fine ever since.)
ttyl,
Amur_
I got a little happy with ground wires on my NA FC, both to help my alternator and to chase the 3800 stumble (which I finally did eliminate.)
Using 6-gauge automotive wire (make sure it's the multi-strand automotive wire - don't use anything else - and don't use anything smaller than 10 gauge) I installed a ground wire:
1) from the negative battery terminal to the chasis (the outer bolt holding the master fuse block in place on front of the strut tower.)
2) from the alternator's tension adjusting bolt to the battery's negative terminal.
3) to replace the ground wire on the backside of the engine (running from the tranny housing to a nut up by the wiper motor.)
4) on the ECU harness in the passenger footwell. But this was a 3800 stumble fix and may not be for you. I don't have the desc. in front of me but a write-up does appear in a few FAQs out there... Also added a ground at the air boost sensor for the 3800 fix (which was what finally nixed it.) I used 12 gauge wire for these two lines, btw.
5) to replace the main engine ground (from behind the plugs/under the oil filter to the chassis.)
6) from the y-pipe (where your exhaust splits to go out to your mufflers) to the chassis. There's supposed to be a factory ground there, but 15 years on the road tends to nuke them.
You might consider adding grounding straps to the back of your car, too. I haven't, but that's because I'm willing to forgoe whatever the benefit is rather than sport attachments that I think look retarded. I don't have tassels on my coat and I'll be damned if I'll have any on my rotary rocket.
Make sure that all your connections are clean. Scrape away paint and remove any dirt or oil. Use an external tooth washer between each connector and the surface, if you can. And tighten the hell out of it. Use a spray-on enamel or good-sized dollop of di-electric grease on all the ground points to inihibit corrosion (if they start to rust they won't be as effective - my boost-sensor ground started to corrode not long after I put it in - I first noticed it when the stubmle started re-appearing! I cleaned it up and nailed it with di-electric grease and she's been fine ever since.)
ttyl,
Amur_
04-24-03, 08:26 PM
#49
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I'll have to take a pic. My terminals have clamps that the main pos and neg cables are held by. These clamps use nuts and bolts and so I crimped ring connectors on the ends of the 'new' ground wires and bolted one end to the neg clamp.
Hope that makes sense. I'll try to get a pic tomorrow.
Hope that makes sense. I'll try to get a pic tomorrow.
04-24-03, 08:38 PM
#50
i recentlly put the HKS ground kit on my car.. i made some minor changes as were the went and added a cupple extras but i def feel some diff... i now have the ecu - both coils- the fire wall - shock tower - exhaust - tranny -- altenator -- the two ground wire's coming out of the engine injector harness
over killl is better than under kill
next i'm going to run one to the fuel pump
over killl is better than under kill
next i'm going to run one to the fuel pump
04-24-03, 08:48 PM
#51
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Originally posted by Amur_
I'll have to take a pic. My terminals have clamps that the main pos and neg cables are held by. These clamps use nuts and bolts and so I crimped ring connectors on the ends of the 'new' ground wires and bolted one end to the neg clamp.
Hope that makes sense. I'll try to get a pic tomorrow.
I'll have to take a pic. My terminals have clamps that the main pos and neg cables are held by. These clamps use nuts and bolts and so I crimped ring connectors on the ends of the 'new' ground wires and bolted one end to the neg clamp.
Hope that makes sense. I'll try to get a pic tomorrow.
04-25-03, 07:30 AM
#54
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I found another thread that answer my question. Man, all of a sudden everyone is one a grounding kick. Here's the link with pictures. The pics are a bit fuzzy, but you get the points.
grounding thread with pics
grounding thread with pics
04-25-03, 07:57 AM
#55
This pic explains how Amur added and extra ground wire to the battery terminals:
It's on page two of this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...d&pagenumber=1
It's on page two of this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...d&pagenumber=1
04-25-03, 11:32 AM
#56
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just to be safe though, id be using 4 gauge ground wires you guys..
depending what type of current is sent through it to get to a solid ground, chances are anything smaller than 4 or 6 gauge will melt prematurely..
if the ground isnt strong, and you attach a ground wire to a location WITH a solid ground, it SHOULD be a beefy piece of wire.. other wise it will look for a solid ground, and go through this teency wire to get there, and before you know it, its melted and your back to square one..
depending what type of current is sent through it to get to a solid ground, chances are anything smaller than 4 or 6 gauge will melt prematurely..
if the ground isnt strong, and you attach a ground wire to a location WITH a solid ground, it SHOULD be a beefy piece of wire.. other wise it will look for a solid ground, and go through this teency wire to get there, and before you know it, its melted and your back to square one..
04-25-03, 11:34 AM
#57
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essentially what im saying is - dont go ghetto and make "solid grounds" with tiny wires you found in the garage - buy decent 4 or 6 gauge wires to make decent grounds
(but dont pay out the *** for it.. $CDN i paid 9.90 for a 44" long 4 gauge ground wire WITH terminals on the ends at a regular auto store)
(but dont pay out the *** for it.. $CDN i paid 9.90 for a 44" long 4 gauge ground wire WITH terminals on the ends at a regular auto store)
04-25-03, 06:05 PM
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the best ground to run is from the negative battery terminal to the big nut that is right behind the rear spark plug on the engine block. it is one of the nuts that holds the tranny to the block. makes a huge difference
01-06-04, 04:14 AM
#60
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Just curious, what are the benefits of multi-strand wires? How do they differ in performance and/or functionality than regular wire? (and why?)
....not challenging anyone's opinion, I am just curious as to the reasons behind it.
....not challenging anyone's opinion, I am just curious as to the reasons behind it.
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