anyone have this? pics? writeups? any problems?

Another mod i would like to do before spring.

 

lame core... its not an indy car. its easy to do though. one wire to ground one wire to starter switch and battery. put key in turn ignition on and push the button. its stupid though.

 

Fairly sure there's a post in the archives. If not, I KNOW that one has been posted before. Searching for "starter button" should turn it up. Be aware that there were some safety issues with the writeup posted.

Honestly I don't see the point.

 

how about a button that would turn the starter until an rpm was reached?

just push the button and release, no need to time the release.

the starter will stop when the engine catches.

button only works with the key to ignition, and clutch in.

 

yeah I think in one of the lastest Road & Tracks or Automobiles one of the things that were listed as going back out of style were the push button starts, and their comments were something like "thank God, as push button starts are cool for about a week".

 

One of the guys here just had his car done with a new motor. We had some strange wiring problems with the starter and REQUIRED to put in a push button starter button.

Basic Instructions:

Use a Spring loaded push button switch. Worth $10 at Auto Value. If you get the correct size, it will fit say, where the cigarette lighter goes with minimal mods. Might have to increase the size of the opening to accomidate the switch. Theres very few choices to choose from in switch size.

Wire the switch to an ignition scource thats ON when the key is turned to the ON position.

When we wired straight to the battery, the starter switch malfunctioned on ONE occasion and was Stuck pushed IN. So the start was always on. It took about 30 seconds to get the wire OFF the battery. This could have caused SERIOUS DAMAGE to the starter. IF you run directly off the battery, you REQUIRE a cut off switch, or the ability to run faster than a speeding bullet.


I can do a write up of it if anyone wants. I've done it countless times.

 

The switch should never ever ever ever be installed without a relay. The two symptoms you describe are very very common if using the switch direct and it overheated the switch contacts.

Of course with a relay, you don't need to worry about the battery or anything since it would only crank if the key was in the ON position and the Start button was pressed.

 

I put a s2000 button where my cigarette lighter was. You have to trim the button a lot to get it to fit flush and look nice.

http://www.torquecentral.com/attachm...chmentid=13442

I didn't disconnect the key start.. I put it in because the security system would mess with me if the hood was open or some random times and I wanted a way to start without that thing working.

 

can it be done with the key being in the ignition, similar to those remote starters

 

**********The switch should never ever ever ever be installed without a relay. The two symptoms you describe are very very common if using the switch direct and it overheated the switch contacts.***************

I probably just like to argue, but the last time I looked...........thar ain't no relay in the stock cars starting system IF you don't have a Theft Protection Relay (Starter Cut Relay). The power goes from the engine fuse box.......to the ignition key........to the clutch interlock switch..........to a Blue jumper in a connector near the Trai Coil area..........to the starter solenoid.

 

^ The contacts tumblers and current capable of handling in the circuit and wires is far beefier then a 10 dolor momentary switch. A 30amp relay should be used.

I have wrote write ups on this so has wonkothesane as well there is no write-up in the archives.

The FC setup is a little more complicated and requires 2 relays to be done properly in conjunction with the keyed ignition. Unless you run it to the started solenoid.

The flaw in my write-up after doing the mod a few months later drove in the rain and realized the wipers did not work. Problem was you need 2 relays to allow the 12v supply to excite the IG2 wire wile car is ON only and deexcite the IG2 while cranking.

 

Yeah the as mentioned by iceblue, the contacts in most of those "Start" switches is only 10 amps at 12volts (although I did see one that was 15 amps)... either way about 10 amps too low.

So they work for a while, until the contacts weld themselves together if using just the switch and no relay.

 

My bad. Your talking about the aftermarket switches. I see.

And I did buy a one of those mini-fuse adapters. It plugs into an existing fuse in the interior fuse box and has output wire coming off it that you connect to whatever aftermarket device you want to feed.

So I ran this new wire to a aftermarket switch and another wire from the BLUE jumper near the Trai coil area to the same aftermarket switch.

So. Key to ON. Press the aftermarket switch and.........puff. The fuse in the minfuse adapter blow. Ah! It's only a 3amp fuse. So a ten amp goes in, in its place. Press the switch and the starter turns and car starts. Second try .......puff goes the ten amp fuse.

Common sense says ...........go find a twenty amp fuse. New 20a installed. Engine starts several times before, a single click sound of the starter solenoid and then, pufff. Fuse goes out.

Better common sense prevailed and I installed the new starter solenoid that's been sitting on my shelf for at least three years. Car now starts without the click, click, start process. I'm sure it'll go eventually just like the solenoids that were on the rebuilt starters I've installed before.