so i got my 89 N/A running, had a probem with fuel and replaced the pump and solved the problem. Now a new problem, my add coolant light and buzzer go off. i can add coolant then i noticed i was leakin. I cannot find the leak. It seems to be coming from the coolant overflow tank which is quite full. checked the radiator and hoses. None are leaking, and the radiator is not clogged. got things back together, but i am running without a thermostat. That's not really bad on these is it? I know that my friend that has and FD had a similar problem and replaced the radiator cap, and that helped him. And when I was heading home today the collant light and buzzer came on and i reved it up while driving and they went off.

Now I've also got a problem when i'm driving once it warms up ..if i slow down, the engine light comes on and idle drops to 1000 then 500...then around 100, and dies. If I push it into nuetral and rev it up it will stay running, and the light goes off the instant i hit the pedal. but it will not hold an idle. When it dies, I can start it right back up and it will idle around 1100. Then the idle is still sparatic, reving up and down. I did a lil tet on the TPS and it seems to be good. Possibly o2 sensor?

If you guys have any ideas, it would help me out a lot. I'm trying to learn as much as i can here. Thanks ahead of time.

 

I would check the compression ASAP, sounds like you might have a blown water seal. a little of the compression is going into the water and pushing it out the overflow tank.

 

o2 Sensor would not even come close to affecting your performance dude. The ECU uses them to scan at retarded points it mostly uses the MAF to change air/fuel.

 

+1 on the compression check

 

Stop driving your car without a thermostat. You are just asking to brick your engine.

With that said, pinhole leaks can cause coolant to exit into the overflow when the engine is warm, but not allow it to return as it just sucks air through the pinhole instead of developing a vacuum to pop open the rad cap return plug

 

Did you check the TPS along its full range, looking for dead spots along it? You can make a TPS and an engine code checker, and see what the engine light means.

+1 on compression check, and you can start it cold, rad cap off, and look for tiny bubbles. Maybe take a video for us to see.

BTW, always good to have full car info in your sig.

 

thanks guys

i've got pretty good compression in both rotors still. my gauge isn't accurate tho

k i'll put a new one in. and i'l double check some of the hoses in the rear and like heater lines.

I'm not sure if i got it full range. i've looked at the TPS tester and engine light, but i could only find an S4 TPS tester. havne't seen one for s5. and the engine light is just a simple jumper, right?


and its just a stock N/A no mods yet

 

Sorry, mang., I was talking S4 one the TPS and Engine light...not sure if the same applies to S5.

...paging S5 people...