So I’m restoring my late father’s RX7 convertible I found.

Redid fuel tank/pump/lines/filter

spark plugs
(wires on order)

And tonight I tried to start for the first time since probably 2009.
No fires or any attempt at starting. It cranked and cranked.

About 3 attempts at around 10 seconds. Then waited. Tried like 9 times. Nothing.

it was too late, but going to try again tomorrow. Then check to see if fuel made it to the filter/rail.

But how long should it take to prime and get fuel to the rail? I need to be patient, but so excited. lol.

 

Good question.... In the passenger strut tower area is a yellow connector. With the terminals bridged, the key in the first position will prime the system.
What I did is, remove the fuel line to the engine coming off the fuel filter. Place the end in a small glass jar. Bridge the yellow connector and then turn the key as quickly as possible from off to the first position.
If you do this before the hose is removed for a longer period of time, when the hose is removed, you will get a little bit of fuel that will leak out of the hose when removing it. Be careful with the extra fuel, position a thick rag below the hose to collect the loose fuel.

If you have an S5 it is slightly different, I think. The Air Flow Meter connects to something that disables the fuel pump if it is faulty.
Someone please chime in with details, thanks. I seem to have forgotten.

Next is spark, I assume that you know how to check for that. If you haven't pulled apart the air intake yet, I would. Just check for aminal nets or food hordes.

Edit: Make certain that you have strong and well charged battery. Having a low rotating speed at starting will keep these engines from starting, at least from my experience.

 

Thanks for the tips and advice. Hoping today to do what you said. Going to take fuel line off the filter and see I’m getting fuel there.
Then just keep moving down the line.

Could the injectors also be clogged? That’s another thought.

We’ll keep chipping away at it and get it going fellas!

Appreciate y’all

 

Actually you might be correct. Earlier when I first joined the forum I asked a question about one of my sensors being unplugged when I opened the hood the first time. Yellow one.

I’m leaving it unplugged for now.

But hopefully today, I’ll pull the fuel line off and just see if I’m getting gas to the front. New fuel pump. Maybe I crossed my lines? I’ll double double check.

Thanks

 

Just pulled the fuel line off after the filter and confirmed we have fuel.

So I think the next steps will be checking for spark. New plug wires on order.

Brand new battery. Fully charged.

Will keep narrowing it down here.

 

Fuel from the pump goes to the forward connection. The return line is towards the firewall.

I think I have read on here just a little oil in the spark plug holes is recommended with and engine that hasn't started in a bit. It helps build compression and lubricates.

 

Earlier in the project we squirted some marvel mystery oil in there and did. Some periodic hand rotations and a few starter rotations.

I didn’t get to it tonight, but hopefully tomorrow I will pull the plugs and check for spark. That will be our next focus I think.

 

Confirmed we have good spark.

So I went to un-bury the injectors and didn’t realize how easy they were to get to after just removing the elbow into the manifold.

And yes. They’re oozing rust. So I’m gonna say quite confidently they’ll need replaced!

 

Those are your secondaries. The ones used in starting the car are buried under the intake.
With those, outside rust won't kill them.If the injectors twist very easily in the housing, you need new rubber parts. Just send them out to have then cleaned and rebuilt.There is a test procedure for the injectors. You might just need to apply 12vdc and listen for a click. Don't quote me, due some research.

Also, if you smell fuel when cranking, it's time for a de flooding and a compression test. Not necessarily in that order. You could have intake issues too.

Get some codes, if there are any too. before you go ripping into injectors, IMHO. S4 is different though, I think.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...des-s5-176590/

 

Well I don’t smell gas when we’ve attempted starting.

So, I thought this was the main rail and injectors. I gotta take off the whole top to get to the injectors below the 4 aluminum “pipes” ?

Also, got a wire and tried doing the check codes thing.
I can’t even get the check engine light to come on? With and without the wire!?

 

Try the de flood procedure. It usually works fairly quickly. However, you have probably loaded the chamber pretty good by now. The process is on here, a lot over the years.

What I have done is to remove the plug wires and wait few hours. With the EGR fuse and maybe one more? Turn the car over and wait again. Just repeat until you think the gas would have evaporated. Then ad a little bit of oil to each spark plug hole, just don't overdue it. I would try a compression test first with the fuse(s) removed though.

You might get away with the de flooding procedure only. However, I would try the compression test first. You could be chasing your tail and needlessly removing injectors, etc. And yes, you need to remove a good bit to get to the primary's.

If you smell fuel you shouldn't need any starting fluid. It won't hurt to try though.

If you have an S4 the procedure is different for checking codes. My brain isn't working so, i can't remember what an 88 is. i think S4. If so, I pointed you in the wrong direction, sorry about that.

Edit: I read to quickly, no fuel smell then...... try starting fluid.

 

https://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ERROR...meric%20value.

This is the test procedure that you need for the 88 ECU, sorry about that.

If you do some searches here, you might find some threads in how to test injectors, wiring and ECU beyond the light test.

There are a couple things or more that could be wrong before clogged or otherwise faulty injectors. Like wiring or the ECU.​​​​​​

 

I’ll check into the deflooding procedure.
I’m just thinking more about the injectors being clogged with ethanol. Should’ve seen the fuel tank when I drained the fuel out. My assumption is the injectors look the same on the inside.

Don’t worry. I redid my fuel tank. lol.

 

Nice work on the tank.
I would try some starting fluid and/or compression testing before tearing apart the intake(s). If You have blown engine, all of the time with the intake will be for not. Also, with a good engine, you might just have massive vacuum leaks. So, a vacuum pressure checker would be handy too.

 

After being so old, the water temp sensor behind the alternator and air mass flow meter will both go out of spec. Replace these.

They have a big impact on being able to start cold.

Your intake looks like a 86 to 88 S4 version.

 

I keep forgetting about the pesky temp sensor. Thanks again.

 

Sounds good. I’ll get a can of starting fluid too.

I’ll do some searches here for part # guides etc.

But yeah, sounds like replacing sensors is gonna be easier than digging out these primary injectors!

 

Just had an epiphany after your suggestion about the mass air flow sensor. Mine might not be plugged it and is sitting off to the side at the moment! I took all that out when I got the car.

Will certainly look first thing when I get home.

 

Correct. 88 convertible.

 

Got a can of starter fluid and sprayed some into the intake manifold, and I actually got a moment where it ran for a moment!

I did another shot and got another moment. That was all I got into today.

The MAF sensor hasn’t been touched. I thought maybe we unplugged it, but just took out the air filter.

Well hopefully get it. 🙏

 

Just for grins and giggles. Did the whole routine of taking out plugs. Adding some marvel mystery oil, doing some cycles.

Then while a friend cranked, I did some shots of starter fluid.

Got about 10 seconds of running, but that was all entirely off the ether. There’s no fuel getting through.

So again, my guts are telling me it’s time to take off the intake manifold, and get the primary and secondary injectors replaced.

The timing and everything sounded good for that brief moment.
Then we had to get out of the garage because of all the white smoke. lol.

 

Given the way that gas tank looked, you're probably right about the injectors!! Yikes! Still, how do the plugs look? While they do seem to light starting fluid, still check that they're not wet, or too dry.

 

Well a quick update:

Ordered new injectors from Fuel Injector Connection.com. They got here in like 2 days!
Meabwhile I had taken off the intake manifold and was waiting on the new gasket to arrive. It showed up Saturday.

So this evening I’ve been reattaching everything. Probably close to 20 things I had marked down to reconnect. It honestly wasn’t that bad.

But the new injectors are in. The battery is currently charging. And I’m waiting on my son to get home so he can witness the start attempt.

Here’s my old injectors. New ones are much much better looking. And don’t smell like that bad gas smell!

 

Post Injector install update:

We’re getting a little closer.
Car is acting like it wants to start now. Will get the revs to jump up to 2-3000 rpm.

Then die. Mayyybe got 2 seconds each time.

I did that about 8 times and decided to stop for now.

I already got new plugs installed, and I just got new wires. Will do them next.

But now I think I need to go back through and check things. Starting where? MAF sensor? Can those be repaired or replaced?
Another thought was the security system? Pull that module and check the board?

 

It seems like it is hitting the accelerated warmup and dies. Mine does the same thing. I just tap the gas pedal until it sort of stays running mostly, with an extremely low idle speed.

If that is the case, start with the TPS adjustment or vacuumed leaks. I am getting close to doing this myself.

Also, can you verify if the cats or cats is or isn't clogged. That will cause issues, too. There are more things but that's where I would start. Your AFM is in the mix too.

Let us know what you find, thanks.