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pilot bearing removal
Whats the easiest way to remove a pilot bearing if you dont have a bearing puller? Autozone dosent have the right style, and im trying not to spend 100$ on the tool from mazdatrix.
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die grinder works just fine.
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Autozone puller has worked for me, I have used it at least 4 times.
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it really depends on how deep the bearing is installed in the e-shaft. i have had to cut out more than i have been able to get out with the bearing pullers.
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I'll try to use the puller first then resort to the die grinder. Is it important to put in a new seal, because the clutch kit i got didnt come with one.
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no, i rarely use the seal because they only last for a few K miles before they get brittle and the seal is compromised anyways(causing potential other problems like seal material getting into the bearing). just be sure to clean all the debris out of the e-shaft area and input shaft before reassembling. also be sure to lube it up, but don't pack it full of grease, too much isn't good and will collect clutch dust.
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ok thanks for the advice i was dreading paying 10$ shipping on 2$ seal.
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Autozone puller has always worked for me.
I just pulled a bearing and seal that had about 120,000 miles on them and the seal was mint. I would always use the seal. personal preference i guess. |
It's not a $100 tool to pull the pilot bearing unless you buy the Mazdatrix puller.
Here is my thread- https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ng#post8871977 Also, why are you buying $2 part/$10 freight from Mazdatrix that you can buy at NAPA for....$2? You can buy pilot bearings, pilot bearing seals, throwout bearings etc from companies that sell autoparts. You can also buy transmission seals and rear engine seals at Napa, Orielly etc. Great Idea to replace those while you are in there. Someone is going to post up and say that the only truly usable bearings and seals have to come from Mazdatrix/Atkins/Pineapple etc. Do you really think that Mazda's general parts are all that exotic? :rolleyes: |
Originally Posted by Karack
(Post 9752445)
it really depends on how deep the bearing is installed in the e-shaft. i have had to cut out more than i have been able to get out with the bearing pullers.
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I borrowed the mazda tool from a friend when I did mine and it came out like cake...
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done it with the autozone puller 3 times. Used a grinder to shave it down a bit and put a diff oring on it but it works like a champ
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I used the autozone puller. I just had to grind down the teeth so it would fit inside the pilot bearing.
Whats the best way to gauge the depth the new bearing and seal should installed? |
I used a dremel.
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I used a dremel too.
Be patient and it will grind through the wall. It's stainless steel so take your time and eventually will go through. Then I used a screw driver to pry it out. If the pilot bearing is too far deep, there won't be any lip for the removal fork to grab on to. So on next install, don't tap it in all the all down. |
Yeah dremel works just fine. lol. 3 times so far in my cars and went very smooth and fast. Just be SUPER careful. Not bad @ all.
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I have the Mazda's official tool.
Completely painless. |
I'd also recommend getting the mazda's offical tool, I tried using the auto zone version (it was already cut down n stuff but it was useless in the end because the people at auto zone don't take care of their shit)
I used other ways to take out a pilot bearing (like a ghetto rigged coat rack), pain in the ass working under the car trying to stick it in and having enough grip to pull it out the mazda tool rules, in n out in under a minute |
fill the hole with grease pack it in use a socket with papers stuffed in it and hit it with a hammer the grease will push the bearing out.
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I've tried the grease method on other cars. It has never done anything more than just make a mess.
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Made my own puller similar to the "official Mazda" tool. Works great.
Jackhild-- Did you ever resolve the question of pilot bearing seat depth? |
I used a rented puller, but you have to make sure that the arms of the puller are very rigid, and use the kind that threads onto a slide hammer.
This is the exact tool that worked well for me: http://greatnecktools.com/product_in...ecialty-engine |
I gave a $100 deposit plus $20 for shipping and their time to another forum member...they shipped the Mazda tool to me, I yanked the bearing in 6 seconds, mailed it back, got my deposit back. $20 well spent.
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Originally Posted by The Shaolin
(Post 9762826)
I gave a $100 deposit plus $20 for shipping and their time to another forum member...they shipped the Mazda tool to me, I yanked the bearing in 6 seconds, mailed it back, got my deposit back. $20 well spent.
it seems expensive like a hundred bucks. still bought it and it really saved me tons of time, it works on FC and FE. One day I will get a FD and Im pretty sure it works for that too. |
Originally Posted by lov-2-rev
(Post 9762715)
Made my own puller similar to the "official Mazda" tool. Works great.
Jackhild-- Did you ever resolve the question of pilot bearing seat depth? I set the pilot bearing in just deep enough that the pilot bearing seal was flush with the end of the eshaft. There is a mazda tool, but I think I used a socket. |
Mazdatrix came out with a tool for installing the pilot bearing as well.
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Originally Posted by jackhild59
(Post 9763890)
I set the pilot bearing in just deep enough that the pilot bearing seal was flush with the end of the eshaft. There is a mazda tool, but I think I used a socket.
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idk about all you guys but harbor freight sells a blind hole bearing puller...works AWESOME, best $40 i ever spent :) basically the same as the mazda tool only not as compact ...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95987 enjoy ;) |
quick trick i use to get the new bearing in....heat the end of the eccentric shaft with a torch to expand the metal...then do work and install the bearing...obviously you don't want the end to be blazing hot but enough so that you can get the bearing in a little easier...now is the time to install a new rear main seal and transmission front/rear seals....they are cheap enough you might as well do it
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Autozone Puller failed on me miserably, worked at it for 2 hours.
Then I tried this. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/pilot-tool-533854/ [Buttsjim's post.] And it took it right out. I had to buy the machine screw but cheaper than a pilot bearing puller that I probably wouldn't use too often. |
I tried Autozone's puller before (the Free Loan a Tool one right?) , their puller was too big for the bearing.
Mazda all the way :) |
Most of the tools that auto parts stores lend out are worn. If the pilot bearing pullers jaws are worn, then it will be a whore to use.
Honestly I've Dremeled them out and used the bearing puller. After using a NEW bearing puller, I will never use the Dremel again. The Dremel is fine to remove a damaged bearing outside of the car, but when the engine is in the car, the proper tool is the only way to go. Just tap the new bearing in place with a hammer and the appropriately sized socket. Same with the seal. Lube everything well in bearing grease first and make sure the bore doesn't have any burs. |
I broke down and bought the tool, I was doing this so often I figured it was worth it. I think it was $75 and I've ended up having at least 5 people borrow it from me.
Buy one and be instantly popular with your local RX-7 crowd! :)
Originally Posted by eage8
(Post 9752902)
I borrowed the mazda tool from a friend when I did mine and it came out like cake...
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