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Pics of painted intake parts, etc. 3rd gen upper intake conversion
I took some pics of my parts that I painted w/ VHT "Flame Proof" 1500 deg paint before I put them in the Bake Oven. I hope they cure w/ out incident!
Heres the first pic that shows most the lot. The UIM and TB are 93+, the LIM is 89+, the WP housing is 87-88 as is the fuel rail. The IC is the "smaller" Isuzu NPR IC modded to "top" fed inlet/outlet for duty as a "horizontal mount IC"; like most the Japanese JGTC race cars I have seen use use. The polished parts were painted w/ clear the dull parts painted w/ "flat aluminum." |
very nice
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Here is a close up of that 89+ LIM. As you can see I cut off the EGR passage, ACV and had the EGR port, the small ACV passages and the EGR's primary port intrusion welded up. I thought it looked cleaner than block off plates and wouldn't be obvious to the un-rotary trained eye emissions stuff was taken off. :-P
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Here is the LIM's port to engine face. I cut a bit off that center bolt boss that intrudes into the primary runners, cut out the afore mentioned EGR intrusion, portmatched the runners to the gasket (once it was cut to match the street ported engine ports), polished the runners full length- roughing out below the 2ndary injectors though, and matched the LIM to 3rd gen UIM ports.
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Top end of that LIM, shows the ports modded to fit w/ 3rd gen UIM.
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Close up; maybe we can see some of that smoothness?
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Here is the bottom of the 3rd gen UIM. You can see how I milled the holes to match up to the 89+ LIM studs (which is much closer to 93+ than 87-88 pattern is!)- and also how I ported the runners to match the 89+ LIM. Note I had material welded onto the mounting flange area for more sealing surface- it gets very thin between the two primary ports when matching!
The UIM runners are polished full length as well and the secondary throttle plates removed and bridge ported out. I cut off some of the solenoid valve boss that is in the Primaries shared throat to match the manifold contour and tapped the hole there for the Haltech's air temp sensor. |
The whole UIM bottom, showing cut solenoid boss.
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UIM from the front- showing the cut bridge and polish job
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This is the face of the polished 3rd gen TB
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Here is the rear of that TB. I ported the 2ndary bores to a smooth taper- and of course, everything is gasket matched.
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The modded NPR IC. I have 2.5" inlet and 2.75" outlet welded onto the "top" (back really, as its horizontal mount) and ported out the end tanks to remove the casting "bosses" or "webs" and of course polished the insides!
The horizontal mount IC minimizes lag due to being less than a foot from the turbo and TB intake elbow, has only one bend in the piping, does not block airflow to the radiator, is further back for weight and is vented by the low pressure area on the front of the hood. Good street/ roadrace set-up; I think. |
A look down the IC outlet
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Lots of detail work there. That lower intake looks great!
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I polished the primary fuel rail, coolant neck and top. Just got carried away cleaning them up :-).
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wow, amazing job! how long did it take? and would it be any diffrent fer a S4 engine?
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Thanks! I am definitely going minimal-ist. Last night I was all exited because I found I could hide the passenger side wiring harness in the former wiper fluid reservoir area. No wires or anything on the whole passenger side engine bay untill the Haltech harness goes in now!
Heres my polished end tank Griffin 26"x19" radiator that fits onto a carbon fiber box section behind/ below the IC w/ a Flex-a-light Blackmagic fan (that simply bolts on w/ the supplied hardware! BTW). To get it to fit between the IC and sway bar I am mounting the stock position oil cooler more vertical, the 2nd stock oil cooler will be above the 1st! |
Well, my car is Series 4. The engine is S5 "block" w/ S4 rotors. If you mean adapting the 3rd gen UIM to S4 LIM-that would be much harder as you cannot simply mill the holes out; they are very far off. It would probably have to be done w/ an adapter plate like Garage Vanna uses. I picked up my S5 LIM cheap- you could as well (plus the 2ndary runners are a little bigger in S5 LIM.)
Last pic is the waterpump housing. I used a grinder for the texture and then clear coated it like the polished parts. I like the look. My LIM actually has the same texture (started when I ground off EGR/ACV bosses), but I painted it to match the UIM. |
It did take a while to do all that, but I did it at breaks and lunch time at work while I was waiting for Rob to build my engine. Best part is I have been so obscessive working on my car I got a 35Lb weight reduction- on me, so it helps whatever car I'm in! :-P
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Very well DONE!!!!!. What is ROB doing to your engine?
Tell him to stop and finish my transmission!!!!! Mods: make this a sticky!!!! |
Nice work T2! Now maybe you can keep up with that red '57 3800 sitting in my drive! Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk!
Yamazuki :D |
thank you drive through please:
I took some pics of my parts that I painted w/ VHT "Flame Proof" 1500 deg paint before I put them in the Bake Oven. I hope they cure w/ out incident! Heres the first pic that shows most the lot. The UIM and TB are 93+, the LIM is 89+, the WP housing is 87-88 as is the fuel rail. The IC is the "smaller" Isuzu NPR IC modded to "top" fed inlet/outlet for duty as a "horizontal mount IC"; like most the Japanese JGTC race cars I have seen use use. The polished parts were painted w/ clear the dull parts painted w/ "flat aluminum." https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=908453 Here is a close up of that 89+ LIM. As you can see I cut off the EGR passage, ACV and had the EGR port, the small ACV passages and the EGR's primary port intrusion welded up. I thought it looked cleaner than block off plates and wouldn't be obvious to the un-rotary trained eye emissions stuff was taken off. :-P https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=908472 Here is the LIM's port to engine face. I cut a bit off that center bolt boss that intrudes into the primary runners, cut out the afore mentioned EGR intrusion, portmatched the runners to the gasket (once it was cut to match the street ported engine ports), polished the runners full length- roughing out below the 2ndary injectors though, and matched the LIM to 3rd gen UIM ports. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=908486 Top end of that LIM, shows the ports modded to fit w/ 3rd gen UIM. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=908497 Close up; maybe we can see some of that smoothness? https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=908502 Here is the bottom of the 3rd gen UIM. You can see how I milled the holes to match up to the 89+ LIM studs (which is much closer to 93+ than 87-88 pattern is!)- and also how I ported the runners to match the 89+ LIM. Note I had material welded onto the mounting flange area for more sealing surface- it gets very thin between the two primary ports when matching! The UIM runners are polished full length as well and the secondary throttle plates removed and bridge ported out. I cut off some of the solenoid valve boss that is in the Primaries shared throat to match the manifold contour and tapped the hole there for the Haltech's air temp sensor. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=908519 The whole UIM bottom, showing cut solenoid boss. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=908523 UIM from the front- showing the cut bridge and polish job https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=908524 |
This is the face of the polished 3rd gen TB
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=908531 Here is the rear of that TB. I ported the 2ndary bores to a smooth taper- and of course, everything is gasket matched. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=908537 The modded NPR IC. I have 2.5" inlet and 2.75" outlet welded onto the "top" (back really, as its horizontal mount) and ported out the end tanks to remove the casting "bosses" or "webs" and of course polished the insides! The horizontal mount IC minimizes lag due to being less than a foot from the turbo and TB intake elbow, has only one bend in the piping, does not block airflow to the radiator, is further back for weight and is vented by the low pressure area on the front of the hood. Good street/ roadrace set-up; I think. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=908545 A look down the IC outlet https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=908550 I polished the primary fuel rail, coolant neck and top. Just got carried away cleaning them up :-). https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=908556 Thanks! I am definitely going minimal-ist. Last night I was all exited because I found I could hide the passenger side wiring harness in the former wiper fluid reservoir area. No wires or anything on the whole passenger side engine bay untill the Haltech harness goes in now! Heres my polished end tank Griffin 26"x19" radiator that fits onto a carbon fiber box section behind/ below the IC w/ a Flex-a-light Blackmagic fan (that simply bolts on w/ the supplied hardware! BTW). To get it to fit between the IC and sway bar I am mounting the stock position oil cooler more vertical, the 2nd stock oil cooler will be above the 1st https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=908567 Thanks! I am definitely going minimal-ist. Last night I was all exited because I found I could hide the passenger side wiring harness in the former wiper fluid reservoir area. No wires or anything on the whole passenger side engine bay untill the Haltech harness goes in now! Heres my polished end tank Griffin 26"x19" radiator that fits onto a carbon fiber box section behind/ below the IC w/ a Flex-a-light Blackmagic fan (that simply bolts on w/ the supplied hardware! BTW). To get it to fit between the IC and sway bar I am mounting the stock position oil cooler more vertical, the 2nd stock oil cooler will be above the 1st! https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=908586 Well, my car is Series 4. The engine is S5 "block" w/ S4 rotors. If you mean adapting the 3rd gen UIM to S4 LIM-that would be much harder as you cannot simply mill the holes out; they are very far off. It would probably have to be done w/ an adapter plate like Garage Vanna uses. I picked up my S5 LIM cheap- you could as well (plus the 2ndary runners are a little bigger in S5 LIM.) Last pic is the waterpump housing. I used a grinder for the texture and then clear coated it like the polished parts. I like the look. My LIM actually has the same texture (started when I ground off EGR/ACV bosses), but I painted it to match the UIM. |
Quote: Very well DONE!!!!!. What is ROB doing to your engine?
Tell him to stop and finish my transmission!!!!! Hi Banzai, Rob built me a S5 "block" w/ S4 rotors, 3mm seals, stage 2 street port, stage 3 oil mods at the 5yr warranty specifications. Looks awsome, I am confident it will make some HP and last a while. He will get that trans out for ya, I bet he is busy from the healthy business of summer rotary restorations and all the extra work of moving shop. Quote: Now maybe you can keep up with that red '57 3800 sitting in my drive! Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk! Oh Yama-kun, I can keep up w/ that 3800 now- and once I get the engine together and running it will be even faster! We have a rule here on the forum- Now that you've posted in the 2nd gen forum you have to get one soon :-). Now go tell my sister that! Heh heh. Thanks Vaughnc, that makes it much easier to view. The parts looked even better after baking for 6 hrs at 600 deg. The clear was a bit clearer and the flat aluminum lighter/more shiny. It seems fairly durable as well so far; I scuffed it w/ a screwdriver and needle nose pliers a couple of times putting the TB bits back together and it didn't scratch or chip, just looked a it darker there. I would use VHT 1500 on other items from what I've seen so far! Ian |
Originally posted by vaughnc thank you drive through please: |
Originally posted by Scott 89t2 sure, as always. I scroll down to see all the pics you post up AFTER, I already clicked on every one above LOL :cursing: |
i went for the twinturboteddy bling bling on my engine...... that is on my FD. if i get really bored with my TII i'll swap it over to FD UIM etc but its too much work right now. if you guys want polishing done ask TTT he is amazing. works speaks for itself!
http://67.83.39.159:8085/photos/rebuild/rebuild-19.JPG |
Originally posted by BLUE TII Here is a close up of that 89+ LIM. As you can see I cut off the EGR passage, ACV and had the EGR port, the small ACV passages and the EGR's primary port intrusion welded up. I thought it looked cleaner than block off plates and wouldn't be obvious to the un-rotary trained eye emissions stuff was taken off. :-P |
That is absolutely beautiful!!! I absolutely love the attention to detail, patience, and amazing display of being "anal" when it comes to perfection. I have just one question, and I have wondered this for a while- How does the horizontal IC get fed air with out a duct that neglects the rad? I know the hor. IC is what necessitates the very inverted scooped hoods on many of the JDM racecars, but have always wonderd how you can feed air to both a horizontall charge cooler and a vertical radiator at the same time.???? The theory of less cahrge piping makes perfect sense but howdoes it get air? I plan on doing a new FMIC soon, and would love to take advantage of that design. The suspense of your anticipated reply is already killing me!!!!!!:)
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Quote: hey is that the LIM i sold you??!!>.wow looks very clean! ANd that NPR IC looks good with those inlet/outlers..
Yep, thanks! It worked out great, fcturbo2. Vosko, that is some shiny ass stuff. My TII is my daily driver/beater so I have tried to keep it low maintanance. Plus, lots of polished aluminum looks very American Hotrod to me; like polished billet wheels. Still, looks damn nice! My finish of choice would have been bronze anodizing like my TE-37s :-). Thanks for the nice works Boost; the devil is in the details- for sure, I got a little devil in me :-). Quote:How does the horizontal IC get fed air with out a duct that neglects the rad? I know the hor. IC is what necessitates the very inverted scooped hoods on many of the JDM racecars, but have always wonderd how you can feed air to both a horizontall charge cooler and a vertical radiator at the same time.???? I am placing my radiator behind and below the horizontal IC and there is a CF inverted hood scoop for the IC w/ lip at the front to maximize the low pressure area already present on the front of the hood. The CF vent is going on my alum NA hood. A CF box section is sealing the triangular gap left between IC, radiator and stock radiator support frame and I will probably add a short angled sheet of CF below the back part of the IC/in front of the radiator to further split the airstream and shield it from radiator heat. Another bonus of moving the radiator back is that I will have a CF cold airbox fed by air from the front grille. The radiator is completely vertical and at speed is still fed by ram air entering the front grille, but some of that is going to go right out the low pressure area of the IC vent. It will be up to the Black magic fan to pull enough air through the oversize 26"x19"x3" radiator to make up for any loss of ram air pressure. The twin stock FC oil coolers are in front of the IC vent, so recieving full airflow regardless of if it exits the IC vent or radiator and should help keep things cool as well. At low speeds and at a stop, there will be much air being drawn through the IC vent by the "puller" radiator fan to prevent IC heat soak and more area open area in front of the radiator to draw air in to aid radiator cooling. If you see flaws, don't hesitate to point them out. I will take pics when it is done and of course let everyone know how it works out. Ian |
for my TII i'd probably go the same route. looks damn good!!!!!
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QUOTE: Plus, lots of polished aluminum looks very American Hotrod to me; like polished billet wheels. ------------------------------------------------------------ Oh yeah! Hey, do the rest of these folks know that your show car is a Gremlin X with polished Americans, a hi-po, super-flo, extra-capacity JC Whitney oil filter, mounted to the slant six that you pulled out of that '72 Dodge Dart? Well, at least when you do the stop-light shuffle, if you lose you can always say, "so, you beat a Gremlin X." Now how 'bout that Pacer that you have tucked away in the corner of your shop? But I digress. |
I am very impressed with your quality of work Blue TII. I was going to ask:
Did you had any problems clearing the fuel rail with that FD manifold? Did you have to modify the throttle cable to work with the FD TB? Also, how much more airflow does your setup flow over a stock S5 motor and manifold. It certainly seems that there would be a large % flow increase with the FD intake and TB. Has anyone else done this or dynoed any results??? Once again, thank you for the great writeup and pictures... Graham :werd: |
Looks amazing... I have a couple questions.. What did you use to port the runners on the manifolds? Can you explain your polishing process?
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I LOVED the quality of this guys work. Every time this thread pops up I have to change my pants...
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Funny when threads come back from the dead. Now Blue TII is gonna be swamped with questions.
Just FYI, that is a Jspec LIM, incase you didn't know. |
Heh. Like 2 weeks ago I started painting my engine manifolds etc with the exact same paint. However my rotor housings are flat black, and thats what Im doing my entire engine. Ive already done my turbo (cold side + wastegate stuff and misc hard lines, 1500F paint baked on). It should hold up. The cold side of the turbo shouldnt get over 350F at any point.
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Do You need to bake the paint on, or will running the engine with it on do a similar effect?
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Originally posted by xfeastonarsex Do You need to bake the paint on, or will running the engine with it on do a similar effect? |
:goes to change his pants again:
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Originally posted by DomFD3S If things in life were always this simple. it be the same thing. I dont have access to a baker and would like my intake to look similar to that one, already started to clean it up. If it just dries will it flake off or will it still be durable? |
That is very very nice!
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He has the coolest IC setup, is Blue TII still here I don't see him that often anymore?
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In terms of durability? I don't know. It may flake. It may not.
But, the baking/curing process is what allows the "paint" to do its job. Essentially, it "activates" the paint. http://www.speco.com.au/vht_flameproof.html "VHT Flameproof Coating only attains its unique properties after correct curing (refer to the instructions on the can)." As indicated by the link provided, IF you don't cure it/follow procedures,...it probably will not withstand the claimed "1500ºF". |
Thats what I was thinking but was not sure. Thanks for the site, Ill read through that.
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That is some bad ass work.......got me thinking of how to do mine.
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I'm still on here, I'm just usually busy playing w/ my car.
It seems all that work I did and parts I used to increase VE of engine worked even better than I had imagined... My turbo would boost creep from 6.5psi WG setting to over 20psi by 4,000rpm :( This turbo is BNR stage IV w/ the stock '89+ turbo exhaust housing bored out for a T4 "O" trim turbine wheel clipped 15 degrees, ported WGs. So it is not the most restrictive exhaust side... I am just finishing up the crazy WG/housing mods that I think will bring that boost creep well under control. I will document these mods for you as always- it is interesting stuff! BTW, all the mods done to the intake system would probably have made the car fairly undriveable w/ out the benifits of all the Haltech E6Ks adjustability. I wouldn't try this on a daily driver w/ stock, stock + piggy back, or Microtech, etc. A couple of examples- The polished manifolds allow fuel to condense on them like CRAZY when they are cold even though they are above the injectors since the overlap of the extended port pulses the mixture back up the runners. W/ E6K I was able to adjust for this and make it run great from a cold start by 1. upping the cold start injector "prime" opening 2. upping the throttle pump coolant correction factor 3. upping/re-shaping the coolant factor 4. changing the fuel VS air temp map Also having all 3 throttle plates open at the same time w/ out the 2ndary plates in the UIM blocking flow coupled w/ the responsive turbo/IC/intake set-up and stiff suspension I had to increase the throttle pump dead band as the throttle is so sensitive going around corners w/ slight bumps the bouncing of my foot would change the throttle position a few degrees and that was enough HP to upset the car balance. It sounded like a rally car going around a corner- Brahh, bahh, brahh, braaap, bahh, bahh, brahh, braap so on... All in all, w/ some tinkering by a complete stand alone novice (me) I was able to get it all running smoother than stock driveability. Well, stock 16yr old TII driveability- never drove a brand new one... Starts right away, runs smoother, NEVER floods and has twice the HP. All the HP mods are nice, BUT if I had to choose between them and the suspension mods- I would choose the suspension mods hands down! And they are cheaper/easier :) It handles soo much better. If you manhandle it like I was used to stock, it handles substancially better- but if you are smooth w/ your inputs it opens up a whole other world of handling. |
Great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
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Good to see someone knows how to use the search button! :lol:
That was uhhh ..... Quite the dig! |
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