Oh no: new TII woes.
 

Hi guys, incase you havn't been following (ha, I'm not that special) threads about my recently bought TII, here's the scoop.

My name is Andrew, and I bought a TII. I drove it a little bit and figured it's atleast worth the price, especially since it's a near unfindable S5 TII and has quite a bit of modifications. My last few threads/posts have been about my car and while I was looking at it. I now own this car and I have a few problemos my friends.

I'm going to list everything I can think of.

a. Whoever owned it before me (bought it at a dealership) capped off a lot of lines. I need to know what all of these are/were. To this very minute I am reading manuals and the faq so please don't flame, although I am a noob and probably deserve it.

b. To shift the clutch needs to be 100% depressed and even than it still grinds. Can I adjust that?

c. At mild throttle the engine revs to 1500 and than backs down. You have to really be slamming on it for it to get past 1500. It than rears it's head skyward and explodes out of the box, nearly unsettling traction everytime. Any thoughts on this? This is near impossible to drive.

d. The ac, battery, and power steering were removed for a GReddy FMIC. Was all of this 100% necessary or would I have been able to keep some of these? Battery is in one of the storage boxes, ac is in my glovebox, power steering is gone :(.

e. Mods that I have found so far include...

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...rFuelRatio.jpg
Rotary Performance Air Fuel Ratio meter. Kinda nifty, how can I make use of this?

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...TurboTimer.jpg A'Pexi Turbo Timer. Seems neat.

Some Razo Type 400 shift knob. Does anybody know if that is a short throw shifter or is this just some ricer bs?

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...APexiS-AFC.jpg
A'Pexi S-AFC. This seems invaluable and will aid in the taming of this beast. Does anybody have writeups or links to aid in my learning process of this tool?

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...eterGauges.jpg Autometer Gauges. When driving in high RPMS, the boost gauge reads "vacuum" instead of boost. (i.e., in the yellow zone). What does this mean?

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...yoRadiator.jpg
Koyo rad. Definetly needed with a TII that is pushing itself.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...GreddyFMIC.jpg
GReddy FMIC. The root of a lot of misunderstandings for me. The installation of this has removed and capped so many things in the engine bay I'm having trouble tracing things back to their roots!

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72/FatalWhenEaten/APexiDualFannelAirCleanerPowerIntak.jpg" A'Pexi Dual Fannel Air Cleaner "Power Intake" Whoever owned this before me sure liked A'Pexi parts. Seems cool. It's kinda huge. I personally like the HKS Mushrooms better.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...n/BlitzBOV.jpg
Blitz BOV. Kinda ricey, kinda cool. Hope it's working right.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...N1Cat-back.jpg
Again more A'Pexi. This time the N1 catback. It also has some sort of aftermarket cat and downpipe.

Again, please don't flame me. I'm just trying to get to know my car better. I'm currently researching as much as I can so don't think I'm lazy. I know that I have tons to learn! I appreciate all help everybody has to offer! Have a good day everyone!

1. s5 t2 aren't that rare at all you just need to look around.

he capped off lines sounds like he's removed the rats nest.

your shifter problem is either you need to bleed your clutch or your tranny is bad

the a/c and powersteering were removed to lose weight

the battery being relocated to the bin is good it takes weight off the front end

and your problem with you boost gauge makes me think you have a leak in one of your IC connectors somewhere, this could also be part of your throttle problem

the shift knob is ebay jdm garbage

the FMIC is a good thing, works way better than the stock IC,

Rat's nest? Is that literal, slang, or sarcasm? Heh.. I don't quite follow.

I realize ac and powersteering deletes save weight. What I meant to say was "Will it be possible to put the power steering back on?

IC Connector leak.. I'll take note of that.

I knew the shift was lame.

The rats nest is the metal vaccum lines(mostly emissions)...that are under the Intake Manifold.
People remove this to simplify working on the engine.

Here is a link to a thread I started the other day concerning the emissions removal. It has some pics...although NZ(one of the gurus here) told me that I mislabeled one pic. I have an 87 TII that im doing some reapairs on and the rats nest is part of that.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/rats-nest-removal-pics-658057/


Jeremy

Emissions/rats nest removal, for reference: rotaryresurrection.com ---> 2nd gen ---> tech ---> turbo emissions removal

The a/c can be kept with the FMIC, but the a/c usually doesnt work in the FC's due to leaky orings or bad compressors, so most owners just say to hell with it and remove it all for room/airflow/appearance. Even when the a/c is "right" in an rx-7 it does not work all that great compared to most "normal" cars...on the highway it is fine, but in town it is near useless and saps out what little low end ability the rotary has.

The p/s could have been left as well, but the greddy piping is a tight fit between the PS pump and strut tower. When driving the engine moves side to side and transfers vibration through the pipe to the chassis, which kinda sucks. THe pipe also has to be ovalled slightly to fit. Whoever did the install chose not to deal with that.

The battery could have stayed in it's stock position.

You likely need a new clutch master and slave cylinder, but you could try bleeding your existing stuff and then adjusting the clutch pedal. There is an adjustment underneath where the pedal rod goes into the firewall. Loosen the 12mm locknut and adjust the rod so that it moves toward the firewall. DO NOT preload the clutch...you should be able to push the pedal slightly before it stiffens and engages the clutch.

Your bucking issue could be one of many things including TPS, bad grounding, etc. Really need more information on that to go anywhere.

you can put power steering back on. and a\c too. your pics look like crap, but astleast theyre there. batt relocation was probably for the i\c to fit. thats how my greddy is, as is most others.

and it sound like you might be needing a new tranny.. :(

Ok so I jiggled some wiring near the TPS while a friend sat and held it at the rpms where it bucked and the bucking stopped. Kudos to RotaryRes. I'm going to rewire the entire car, the clown who owned it before me has lots of tight wires. Atleast they are all a matching color, lmao.

Still slams into 2nd gear and grinds, are FCs known for bad 2nd gear synchros? I'll have to get a rebuilt tranny.

Is the power steering from my 90 gtu the same as the 89 turbo? My search results so far have lead to no. Will it fit and work just fine? My assumption is yes. Any thoughts?

the 2 and 5 gear synchros on all the 87-91 and 93-95 turbo type R gearboxes are known to be weak. You can get both synchros from malloy mazda for around $100. Apparently the 5 synchro is an easy swap but the whole deal has to come apart for the 2 synchro. I had my trans rebuilt before it ever went into the car because of this known defect.

In the meantime I'd suggest you double clutch or shift slowly to prevent further damage to the trans.

There are 2 types of PS on the 89-91 cars. Some cars have a 2 pressure hoses on top of the PS pump, and some have 2 pressure hose on top (plus the small low pressure hose on the side of the reservoir on all pumps). See the FSM for visual descriptions of both. Being a t2 yours should have had the 2 hose setup, so you need to find a pump from an 89-91 with 2 hoses. The 86-88 pump were all 2 hose, however one sensor on the bottom was different than the 89-91 so getting that one won't help you.

I thought I had remedied the 1500 thing but it didn't take. Let me explain it again.

Under light throttle, the car will not go above 1500 rpm, it will back down to 1k. This is fairly simple to overcome, just step on the gas harder. I however do enjoy reversing and taking off slowly without bucking, so could anybody help diagnose or atleast give a theory to why this may be occuring? I plan on rewiring the entire car.

It has some Defi VSB thing mounted on the dash. It displays RPMs and MPH. This is neat and all, but I can clearly see RPMS and MPH in my stock gauge cluster. What is the point of this? Are 2nd gen gauges known to be wrong? Could the previous owner have had larger rims on the car? Some insight would be relieving to me.

There is a new O2 sensor on the car. It says "A Norgren CO." and a product number. Through research I found out that Norgren is a reputable company in pressure and electrical regulating and diagnosing. Is this a wideband O2 sensor?

I have yet to mess with the SAFC as I fear for my car's life. It is, however, set up for a 3 cylinder. The RPMS it reads don't match the stock tach. Does anybody think it was tuned using the "Rotary Performance Air Fuel Ratio" light up blip meter that is in my dash? Does anybody have links to SAFC manuals or base maps for a stock turbo or one with similiar mods as me?

Thanks for all your help guys! I just hope it looks like I do my research before I ask questions, I don't wanna get flamed!

The N1 Catback has the ATS silencer. Does anybody know how to remove it? I tried messing with the spring and it wont come out. Perhaps I'm just a girlyman. Also, does anybody want the N1 catback system? I plan on buying RB. I'm more of a stock looks kinda guy.

A question on that tranny rebuild, is there a known fix for that or did you just have new standard synchros put in so you wouldn't have to deal with it for a while?

I'd imagine the syncros have been redesigned by now.

Also, try adjusting your TPS and cheking the ignition timing.

Does Malloy Mazda sell redesigned, stronger synchros or just the OEM synchros brand new? My 5th gear is starting to grind now too so it looks like I'll just rebuild the whole thing.

RPM won't matter so much as throttle position. Are you talking about cruising at high RPM, or holding the pedal to the floor and taking it to redline?

I still have the weird 1500 bounce. Also I have some new friends to join the list of evergoing problems!

Boost problem is remedied, I'm just an idiot.
2nd and 5th gear still friends, replaced clutch master cylinder and readjusted clutch pedal to no avail, actively seeking a new tranny. I'm going to put real thin stuff in the tranny and see if that don't atleast fix it for awhile.
O2 sensor looks like just a stock replacement.
SAFC issues are being held in the SAFC forum. Please post there if you have input.


--My interior lights dim when I hit the brakes, lol.

--It idles at about 800 and than drops to like 700 every 5 seconds. It sounds like a dragster, it like idles and pops.

--What is this? http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...n/100_4655.jpg I'm reading the FSM I got from cochranracing.com as we speak.

--This went/goes to the power steering? http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...n/100_4657.jpg

--THis went/goes to the Air pump? http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...n/100_4656.jpg

--This went/goes to the main Cat? http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...n/100_4661.jpg
--I'm guessing so because this is how the cat looks http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...n/100_4659.jpg

--When starting I have to tap the gas after it starts and hold it at a high rpm like 1000-2000ish (wherever it stops without hesitating back to 1000, lol) to get it to stay running. If you start the car clutch in out of gear it just starts, turns a few times, and sputters to a stall. TPS related? I had a friend with a Honda whos throttle body wasn't working right so it kept dying after it started so we started it with the gas open a little and it started.

Nobody has any input? I'd really like to know what that first link is.

Rebuilding a transmission requires a big long 18"(or something) socket and a LOT of work.... I recommend taking it in to a professional or buying another used transmission without sloppy syncros.

Is it ONLY in 2nd and 5th that you are having a hard time getting into gear? Could just be a bad pilot bearing.... they can cause a condition where its hard to get into any gear... doesn't explain the grinding, but definately doesn't help the grinding. Putting in some good redline MT-90 fluid can help prolong transmission life as well.

OK I expressed I'm looking for a new tranny if the thinner tranny fluid doesn't work. Anything on any of the other issues?

In the first pic where does the lines run to? does one go to the bottom of the turbo(wastegate actuator), and the other one to the compressor side of the turbo? if it does its a boost controller.

As for the SAFC I think it needs to be on 4 cyl … look on the bottom of this page. http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/safc.htm

probally should look into a wideband so see how your car is running also, make it easyer to tune that SAFC


As for the jumping idling problem, sounds like a vac leak, spray some starting fluid around the engine bay, if you hit a vac leak it will rev up a bit

Putting it on 4 cylinder changes the way the rpms and stuff are displayed, it does not change runability whatsoever. It's an output only feature.

And yes, it's on 4 cylinder now.

I can't get under the car to see where it goes, but on the back of it it says "A Norgren Co. R04-125-NNEA" or something like that. Is this a stock piece of equipment? I don't have an unfooled around with RX7 to make comparisons, I'm trying to undo a hackjob here.

Is it under the dash? If so it may be the amplifeier for door speakers.

Oh and that is a manual boost controller, the thing you asked what it was in the picture.

2nd and 5th gear are the most likely to fail in the tranny, so most likely that has happened.

It plugs into the turbo right after the IC piping and right above the apexi intake I have.

Manual boost controller? That's old school than. Is there a way to remove that? Did something stock used to go in it's place? Can I take that off or is that keeping me from hitting Fuel Cut?

My dashboard went completely out now, It doesn't fluctuate when I hit the brakes. It's not a blown fuse either. I love this car...

the MBC is used to turn boost up! so if you take it out and just connect the 2 your boost will probally go down.

Can manual boost controllers bring the boost down too? I'm boosting 6.0 right now, which is 2.5 less than stock I believe. I don't think the boost will go down because I have a free flowing exhaust. Correct me if I'm wrong.

I read an article on MBCs. I guess they are positioned in between the active source of boost and the wastegate. So if I remove the MBC will the wastegate still function properly? I want to bring the car back to stock.

YES, the WG will work properly if you remove the MBC, and connect the nipple on the cold side of the turbo to the WG