http://www.youtube.com/watchv=EIksAi...e_gdata_player
Car is 1988 s4 n/a

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

Video does not work.

Fixed

Ignore this post

FIXED CORRECTLY THIS TIME

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

That's definitely not 4,000 rpm. Look at your leading coil and trailing coil and you'll notice that both have a short lengthed Black wire connected to nothing. Jumper a wire from one to the other and see if that makes your regular stock tach work. The tach gauge normally works off of the trailing coil but either that coil, wiring connection or the tach itself is broken.

I see the one on the trailing coil. Any tracers on the leading coil?

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

Not sure what you mean by tracers. Each coil should have the same identical Black diagnostic wire.

Did all these problems happen at once? Or these all seprate issues you are trying to fix now? If the oil pressure reads lower than 25 on idle check it with a mechanical gauge. Dont make my Mistake. I blew out a front oil cover oil seal. And Passed it off as something else.

how long has the fuel gauge not worked?

This all happened all at once.

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

Bump

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

Update:
The car now refuses to stay running period. Before, as long as I gave it some throttle I could keep it running. Now I'm lucky if it actually runs. Starting to think its the trailing coil. Any ideas?

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

The car just needs the leading coil to start and run. And the 12 volts on both voltmeters is rather poor. How about some details. When was the last time the tach in the dash worked and if it did work did it mirror the aftermarket tach? How long has the aftermarket gauge indicated a 4k idle when it clearly is not idling at that level. The trailing coil is what provides the signal for the stock tach gauge. How did you wire in the aftermarket tach? The leading coil must have the Black diagnostic wire that ends in a bullet connector exactly like the trailing coil. Was it cut or did you cut it off?

Ok, I want to get this into the thread, I don't remember how clear I made this: I purchased the car modded as is. Now to answer you questions:
1. About 2 months ago the factory tach worked and mirrored the aftermarket tach perfectly.
2. About a month ago, after letting the car sit in the driveway for less than a week, the factory tach started not responding correctly. A week later it stopped working all together. This time frame is about the same time frame that the other gauges started acting up.
3. I did not wire in the aftermarket tach. It was there when I received the car. 4. Seeing as I cannot find the diagnostic wire on the leading coil, I'm assuming thats how they are feeding signal to the aftermarket tach. I did not cut it off.

As for the voltmeter, I did not have the belt as tight as it should have been. I currently have a healthy 14.3 volts.

Maybe now that we can play the question-answer game, we can hopefully get somewhere. I appreciate your help and everyone else's. :)

EDIT: When I purchased the car, the only issue it was having was constant breakup under any throttle, and once I located and fixed numerous vacuum leaks and it would actually DRIVE, it had so little power that I had to go WOT in 1st gear to climb any of the hills around my neighborhood.
Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

Besides the factory tach, which gauges began to act up? You mentioned the voltmeter was not acting properly due to a loose belt so outside of the voltmeter and tach which gauges started to act in a peculiar manner? Was it just the fuel gauge or the temp gauge as well. Your temp reading seemed to be at the halfway point which is too high as 1/3 should be the highest it is to read.

With the car running remove the two electrical plugs from the trailing coil. One has two wires while the other one has four of them. The car should still run. When doing this check to see if the aftermarket tach still works or not. If it stops then it was wired to the trailing coil and if it continues to run then it is relying on the lead coil for operation.

1. The fuel gauge, oil pressure gauge, and the temp gauge.
2. See above answer.

The car will not run long enough for me to perform that test.

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

Since you made the video the car will only stay running for seconds or how long?

1. IF it actually catches the fire it will immediately die. Occasionally it might rev up a little with my foot to the floor, but it just dies again. Its not flooded, I promise.

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

Since it now dies rather quickly have you checked for spark and fuel? Have you checked the relevant fuses? Have you tried jumpering the fuel check connector? Have you figured out how the aftermarket tach is wired?

1. Yes and yes. I can't tell if the injectors are firing correctly, and can't tell if the spark timing is correct, but it has spark and fuel.
2. No. I just got home from work. Which fuses need checking?
3. I was wondering if there was a way to jumper the fuel pump. Give me and idea of how to accomplish this?
4. Same answer as 2. I just got home and still have NO idea how the tach is wired. Why does that matter if it ran well before?

Again, thank you and please bear with my questions, I'll provide you with all the info I can.

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

Because it isn't running correctly and since then you have gauges which are not working as good as you say they have been. Also, it now appears when the video was made you had to fight to keep the car running by adding some throttle. Question is how much throttle, and if the throttle had to be used to keep the car running then that doesn't really classify as idling.

Do you happen to have a spare CAS?

There is a Yellow and Black relay to the right of the steering column. Two rows of wires, five in all. Bottom row has two wires one being Black and the other Brown. These two wires are to be jumpered together. W/key to on or start the Blue wire in the same plug should have at least 10 to 12 volts. When it does the pump is receiving voltage.

To even start the car I had to have the throttle wide open. Then, until it reached normal operating temp, i would have to hold the throttle cracked or it would die. Occasionally it would still die.

At the risk of sou ding like a total newbie, whats the CAS?

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

Crank Angle Sensor. Used to set the timing. You need to read up about it and check it.

I'm talking to you and cooking dinner. Could you possibly link me?

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...estion-978911/

Post #9 shows you what you need to know. Yellow line om Main Pulley set to the fixed pin marker and CAS w/top removed looks just like the position in the pic.

On an S4 the pertinent fuses besides the Main fuse would be the two EGI fuses and the 15 amp Engine fuse. If you have spark then all of these fuses must be good.

Fuses are correct. Could the CAS have jumped timing? O.o

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

Usually if it was set correctly then it stays that way, but since your car does not run in a healthy manner then it should be checked, and if needed to be reset it takes a couple of minutes if that to do.

Which mark on the crank pulley is the one that should be lined up with the pin? There are 2 within a quater inch of each other.

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

The crank pulley as seen from the front of the car.

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

The CAS as seen from the driver's side.

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

The pic is somewhat at an angle but it appears to be slightly off.

Sorry, its rather dark outside. I have adjusted this thing many times and nothing changes in how the car reacts.

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

UPDATE:
I feel retarded. The tank is bone dry. And I found a massive vacuum leak on the back of the manifold. Let me put some gas in it and see what it does. Will report back.
Also, I set the crank angle sensor perfect. Should run great if there aren't anymore leaks.

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

Is this the wire I'm looking for Satch?

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

Thats for pulling error codes. The diagnostic wire on the trailing coil is exactly like the one on the leading coil, no difference.

On the lead coil there is a White plug w/two wires that are B/Y and G/Y. These two wires connect through the connector to two wires from the coil. One is Tan and the other is an off Red wire. Along w/these two wires is the Black wire that is very short in length and ends in a plastic bullet connector.

Black arrow points to it in the picture.

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/9670/leadingcoil.jpg

Heres the wires I have.

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

Wrong side!

These two wires connect through the connector to two wires from the coil. One is Tan and the other is an off Red wire. Along w/these two wires is the Black wire that is very short in length and ends in a plastic bullet connector.

From the coil, from the coil, from the coil, from the coil!

I don't see one at all... Am I that blind? Lol

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

Perhaps you have a coil off of a JDM car. There should be an identifying stamp on the coil which states what model it is and so on. Mine says N327.

I seem to have the same stamp.

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

I think you're the first person I've seen to not have the diagnostic wire. It would have helped to have to see if your tach itself was the problem or something else at the trailing coil so it's not that vital to have.

The Yellow/Blue wire at the trailing coil is responsible for sending the tach signal. You/ll want to see if the plug is perhaps not making good contact or if the wire has been corrupted.

Its clear its some Electrical problem, Im guessing a ground somewhere If all these things happen at once. And i would check the wireing harness grounds. And find out what is working and what is not working.

if all the gauges are acting up its not going to be some coil issue. its also possible you might have an Electrical issue with the key switch.

I felt the need to post here that finally having more time to wrench on the 7, after setting the CAS correctly and trying to fire the car over a few times, I decided to check the CAS again. What do ya know, its out. Again. Time for a new CAS?