shit man no need for a dd you can get tht motor out and rebuilt and back in over the weekend. no need to get a second car lol

Nope, not a spec, I have the Mazdatrix rebuild DVD, street rotary from mark warner and the FSM. Going to have a hard got at it the weekend, haven't got a chance the week due to work. But you're totally right about starting Tony, because actually starting was probably the hardest part. It just sat in my garage for so many weeks without me even touching it.

lol .. ok so as for my rebuild .. wat should i buy as far as parts (i.e. kits ... seals) from who?

I'm going with rotary aviation's rebuild kit ($501) and atkins side seal kit. Not sure whether or not to go with super seals as it's not much more and the benefits could be worth it (although I'm not really sure how much better super seals are than reg seals). Only reason I'm considering super side seals is because that's what went first on my engine last time (then I blew an apex seal later after driving it with broken side seal haha). Also considering going with 3mm seals as I plan to run 15 psi (+/- 3 psi) on 9.7:1 rotors (if anybody could chime in with some input on actual benefits of 3mm seals it would be great because I hear it works and that it does jack shit other than lower compression slightly).

Some good spots to check out for parts are atkins, mazdatrix and rotary aviation.

From what I've read, there are very few benefits from 3mm seals. Little bit of added protection, but more wear on the housings and lower compression, not to mention you have to have the rotors machined. 6 slots, not sure how much people charge, but doesn't sound too cheap to me. I would only go with 3mm if your apex slots are worn out of spec. A lot of people run 2mm with high power output, again from what I've read, its all about the tune...

I went with the Atkins Rebuild kit 'b' I think, but I splurged for new housings at ~$400 a piece about 5-6 years ago... they aren't that cheap anymore.

I did upgrade to 2 piece Atkins apex seals(curious how their doing at 10k, but I'm not opening it up to look) instead of 3 peice seals and solid corners with 3rd gen springs, basically all new rotor seals, with viton oil rings.

Quote from Atkins, "All of our apex seals are heat treated. The material for these seals has been developed by David Atkins over his extensive racing career in order to exceed stock apex seal life and durability. We have customers running 7 second quarter mile times with these seals. Customers use them in a wide variety of applications including turbo, NOS, superchargers, and naturally aspirated applications.
Detonation will ruin any apex seal, none are immune from this problem. Some apex seals will bend under detonation, and become useless, due to lack of compression, these may break but they will do so inside of the rotor and save your housings. The benefit of these is that they can takes much more abuse before breaking than other seals can before bending."

I would suggest to do it over a weekend, then you might not forget where everything goes, it is kinda easy though, because everything kind of goes/plugs where it goes...?...

ok before you jump the gun and buy. you need to open your motor and see whats useable and whats not then go from there. because who knows whats its like inside your motor.

and yea i'd say go with 2 peice seals. i remember the hell that the 3 pieces gave me. they were a bitch to get in place.

Sorry jallen but, how the hell is he going to get all the parts he needs on the Weekend? not to mention measuring the parts? then have it put together by monday. If he had a full rebuild kit and everything went smoothly, sure, but are you going to have the plates lapped and nitrided(something I didn't do, but should have) not to mention getting the correct spacer for the correct endplay.

yea i didnt realize what i said haha. but its easily something that could be down over the weekend if he had all the parts. i shoulda stuck a bit more of thought into that. so i guess this would be a 2 weekend deal. one to tear down the motor and get everything ordered then a second one to put it all back together. thats if everything goes smooth, which it most likely wont. never does hhaha.

thanks a lot my dudes .. jim thx on the info ... nick good looks on the personal experience, open that motor up and check them seals :p lol j/k ... thejallenator.. yeh meng im most definitely not getting this done in a weekend.. i'm still driving this b*tch, not good i know but i got noooooo choice .. until i find a spot to park it and operate on it .. im beat ..

anywho .. so far two piece kit is where to go eh?! from atkins ok ok

i need to mention that my motor isn't stock is had a good amount of work done to it (when i had some money to spend) sooo thats another reason im skeptical and trying to get as much info as possible..

you do realize what you mean by "a two piece kit" dont you? it only pertains to the apex seals. bust seriously before you get the thought of buying in your head you need to figure out what needs replaced first,. some kits come thing things others dont. and also the kits are different prices so its also a matter of how deep of pockets you have..but when it comes down to what "kit" ti buy everyone is going to tell you to go to every other place around. it seems to all boil down to preference IMO.

butt what do you mean by your motor isnt stokc? whats done to it?

yeh i knew its only refering to the seals .. ima get back to you on the motor work .. at work and there hawks about forums..specially with me lol

well you know .. the usual .. a bit of street portn and a little old haltech lol .. now does mods on the motor such as a street port change how the rebuild goes? or its the same sh*t?

same deal.

iigh kooo .. still dont know how soon im going to get into this rebuild .. definitely not until i find myself a dd