Reference https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=1#post3485550
I changed my OMP lines as per this post, apparently teflon doesn't cut it. I had premix in the tank so it wasn't too bad. I thought the car was on fire though, a lot of smoke coming out from under the hood. I won't be able to see exactly what happened til I pull the UIM (tomorrow when it's cool) but it smelled like melting plastic and burning oil. Guess I'll have to bend over for Mazdatrix, unless someone on here has a good set. What a pita.

 

Yea jeez, im glad that they didn't ship to canada becuase I was buying them the other day. Guess I have good fate
That sucks tho, ****... The mazdatrix ones cost about 20$ per ******* line, thats just too much money considering how thin these pieces of **** are. Im very glad you informed us... ****...

Mine are broken. I'll ask my dad what kind of line he think will cut it.

 

I used small engine fuel line on 2 cars, havent had a single problem. Got it for $2 a 3ft section at home depot.

 

mmm, teflon should be just fine in this application... Tell us what you find when you get the uim off.

 

dont they sell ss brqided lines? if youyr going premix, just block off the omp and ake out the oil injectors and thats it.

 

hey im putting a set of SS lines on tonight and so far they look realy good. i picked them up off ebay for $106 shipped to me doorand shipping was very fast. check out the link ~~~> http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQg...sortpropertyZ1

 

nm

nice find

 

I've got 3/4 I'll let you have for shipping costs.

IIRC, the one that is broken goes to the front block injector. (not one on the LIM...)

All are in good shape, no leaks, but no copper sealing washers (do have the 1 piece copper "washer" that goes to the MOP.

PM me and I'll send you pics on tuesday.
I've got all 4 injectors if you need them as well. Cheap, just pay shipping.

 

Hmm... mine seem to be holding up fine and dandy. If anything ever happens to my teflon lines I'll be sure to say something.

 

I would just premix, it's not difficult at all, and the general consensus is that it lubricates better without causing carbon deposits..

 

atkins sells em for 18.50 a piece for oem. i just ordered some stuff from them. ordered on wed. and it got here in california on friday morning.

 

Teflon PTFE melts at 635*F and "starts to breakdown at a low 500*F. Thats PFTE, other forms of it may melt at lower temps.

 

Sorry guys, I was totally wrong the oil lines are fine. I got out there this morning with an inspection mirror and I could see they were ok. I think I must have spilled something under the uim and it was burning off. I ran the **** out of it a little while ago with no problems. I'll save you the trouble "I'm an idiot"

 

Whoa! I just now was informed by MRX_Rotary of your thread here. I'm glad I didn't know about it before your last post - would have really bothered me! Whew!

But really, I have no reservations about the material, I was reading thru this wondering how you could have gotten the wrong stuff. 500 degrees max service temp is just that, and 500 degrees is been-dun-fried-my-injun-a-long-ways-back-and-now-its-flaming-my-fuel-lines temperature. That is hell-hot. And like Kenteth said, that's not even the melting temp, only the service temp! These stated temperatures are not exagerated numbers. They are for real - as in engineering spec numbers. You can rely on it. If you got the clamp rings on tight, you can forget about any future problems coming from these lines.

Ok, so, all is well afterall. I dunno about you, but $20 for much-better-than-new lines was worth every penny. Plus, we have about 4 feet and 4 spare clamp rings for future repairs, or for doing 2 lines on somebody elses 13B. To each, his or her own, I guess.

 

it would be good to plug the oil injector holes as well.

 

I only put the premix in while waiting for the oil to come up the lines. It probably takes half an hour of steady running to get oil to the injectors with empty lines. I'm afraid I'd forget to add the oil if I was always premix. I'm just going to keep the oil injection system in good shape.

 

I really like those stainless braided lines. Only problem is you cant see if the oil is actually going through the lines with those. I'm assuming if you dont get a CEL the oil is going through the lines.

 

That would be smart huh? lol :0

 

Well, the fitting of the SS lines are grate I haven't had time to get everything else back together to see if im going to have problems from them but I don't think anything's going to happen there really put together rite.

 

Man thats crazy, theres no way that it should normally take 30 minutes of steady driving for the oil to come up the lines! What that kind of pressure, it wouldn't be enoughe to squirt it out of the injector! no way!

I think theres something messed with the pump.. there has to be. It should come right up the tip of the line within like 5 seconds, there should be some pressure in there as well.

 

Nah, that's how it works evidently. I guess you could think of it as sucking on a nipple. The injectors suck on their lines. It's up to the metering "pump" to keep these little suckers from sucking all the oil out of the engine and into the chambers / intake manifold. It supplies the lines with the prescribed (metered) doseage of oil. MRX_Rotary pointed out to me that two of the lines get a smaller dose than the other two - that it was supposed to be that way from something he read.

I really didn't research this - just did a little thinking - and I might have it wrong. Somebody will correct me here if I am, I'm sure...

 

I was going to delete my omp system thinking that if I pre-mix only that there would be less carbon buildup because 2 stroke oil burns cleaner then motor oil!

I found out on this forum that you do not want to delete the omp system because during deceleration the ECU stops the flow of fuel (containing the pre-mix)!

If you think about the percentage of time driving under deceleration conditions you get the idea of how much the pre-mix is not getting into the rotors.

What do you think about this?

 

20 year thread resurrection, i think that's a new record.

the premix debate has been a beaten dead horse for long before this forum even existed. in truth, i still believe that premixing is far superior to the OMP system, because crankcase oil leaves behind hard carbon deposits where premixing leaves an oily film that doesn't leave deposits. i have firsthand seen many engines of both that were ran on premix and OMP for 100k miles and the premixed engines showed less wear and far less carbon deposits.

if the question is why not do both? because i have also firsthand seen that the OMP system leaves a wear line in the rotor housings directly leading from the oil injector port in the housing. this tells me the benefits of the OMP system are less than the drawbacks of losing lubrication for a few seconds. premix also does not immediately go away once fuel shuts off, oil remains on parts in the engine afterwards.

 

The picture is from my last engine after about 70k miles, after seeing this I am determined to reduce the carbon buildup in my new replacement engine!

Thanks for your insight, I might need to reconsider keeping the OMP system operational on my engine. There is the option of modifying the system to using only 2-stroke oil from an oil reservoir fed by gravity. Anything to reduce the carbon buildup on the rotors is a good thing!

 

I have just rebuilt my OMP and attached the lines following some pictures I took while disassembling two engines.

As far as different amounts of oil being delivered, I noticed that there are metering jets installed in the rotor housings and metering jets on the ends of the delivery nozzles used in the lower intake manifold.

Do these different metering jet pairs deliver different amounts of oil? If so, no big deal, they have been calibrated by the engineers!

That being said, if I attach the wrong line in the wrong position on the OMP it should not matter, all four lines get the same amount of oil fed into them and the jets determine how much gets let into the engine.

Here are a couple of pictures of my OMP assembly:




My question is about the two mounting brackets for the four lines.

The positions I have are the same as my reference pictures, I need to know where the brackets bolt to?

Could someone please post a picture where they bolt to?
Thanks!