im not going to let other people work on my car it will be me only not some shop thanks,


and i know i have to look at the #'s but which ones ? also what picture u need to check if i have emision system ?

The ECU should have a decal with a number printed on it. It's hard to miss.

You know, a lot of your questions about what was done to your car could probably be very easily answered by the guy who sold it to you. He'd likely know what ECU he used, what emissions components he removed/left on, etc. If you're still on good terms with him, a phone call might clear up a lot more than we can based on some photos and your descriptions. If you do talk to him, make sure you write down as much as possible for reference later rather than relying on your memory. Just a suggestion.

he doesnt know much as he has his friend mechanic swa it in, andlooks like the emisions are gone, he said its the jdm ecu in it ?

whats sensors control idel ? and were is oil preasure and temp sensors ?

whats a cpm flasher ? should i use it ?

First get what everyone says, the thermostat, and then check the connections for the oil, temp gauge from the sending unit. the oil one is located by the oil filter, and the water temp is by where the thermostat would be, i think. then i would put all new fluids in there, oil, coolant, oil for the tranny, etc. Then work on the idle.

you have a few things that control the idle. You have the BAC valve that is on the Upper intake manifold, i have a 88 TII so i'm not sure if the s5 has this, but on mine there is a a/f adjust screw on the passenger side by where the mass air flow meter would be. Also, on the Throttle body, there are two adjustment screws. One is for the tps adjustment, you can get a tool to do that from Mazdatrix. the other is the fast idle screw, you need to adjust that according to the fsm. also search on this forum in the second gen for a diagram of the vacuum hose, i know someone posted it up a while back. Anyone correct me if i'm wrong about these things and add to help this guy out.

ok were exactely is the a-f adjustment ?

and when i unpluged the mas air flow cone thing connected to the intake pipe now it idel's at 2k cold or warm, and then goes down littel to 1k, so i guess its not jumping to 3k to build oil preasure because the oil preasure sensor isint hooked up ?

and i can find the oil preasure sensor, and thanks for help its helpt alot it just i search but not sure what to search for like WHAT SENSOR SPIKES idel to 3,000 when cold ? also how di i know whats a good a-f setting ?

Then you are totally screwed. Sorry, but it is quite obvious that you do not have the skills to work on the car yourself. I recommend selling it before you ruin it further.

On the throttle body itself there are two coolant lines going to it, one thats on top, and one thats on the bottom connected to the block. The cold idle is i think on the back of the tb closest to the firewall. i has two nipples on it, one going to the intake mani, and one that goes to the other side of the tb. If thats not working right, then your cold idle doesn't work, so your going to hold the gas down till warm.

the af should be next to the map sensor if your car has it

Maybe already mentioned, but also check the VIN number on the left side (standing in front of the car) of the firewall. See if it matches the sticker in the door jamb. Then you'll know for sure if it started out as an S4 or S5, NA or TII. Pictures will then let us tell you (to some degree) what may not have been on the car before.

it looks good but why does it matter what it was so much ?

to the guy that said im screwed i have a honda/acura shop were we swap motors and build ground up, just rotory has all these vacuum lines and extra shit that im not familier with, and thanks to people that replied,.

and if i unplugged the mas air flow intake ube sensor and from then then idel was good what does that mean ?

did jdm cars have that ?

as now when i start it it goes to 2k warms up and goes to 1k ?? but no 3k is that because of no oil preasure sensor s?

Then you should know that when you can't figure out something you refer to the FSM? Right? Why don't you try it now to figure out the vacuum lines? I don't think the 13b is nearly as complicated as other motors once you start working on it. Get in there and start tearing things down and repairing it and familiarize yourself with it. That's how I did it. Two engines later, I can tear down a 13b to the core and build it back up. Now I just need to learn how to rebuild it.

Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but doesn't the engine shut off when the MAF is disconnected?

Yes

having a top mount and no hood scoop is a bad idea..

+1. you need to the the TII hood or switch to front mount.

u mite want to check your gaskets too, you mite be sucking air from somewhere. check the hoses that are connected to your upper intake mani. if i remember correctly, on the 3 nipples closest to the firewall(if you don't have emissions), the bottom one is for the cold idle thats on the throttle body, middle or top, is for the fpr and something else( can't remember right now). Then on the other side, i have only one thing connected(pressure sensor) and the rest is blocked off. and my bov is connected to the nipple by the bac.

hope this helps

do this b4 you continue anything else cause it sounds like your flooding on one rotor.

remove spark plugs, remove fuel injection fuse under hood, crank car for ten seconds. put in a cap full of transmission fluid in the two lower spark plug holes
put in new spark plugs and wires(tune up) if you haven't bought them already, you have two leading plugs on bottom and two trailing plugs on top. crank car and rev up to five thousand rpm for ten seconds. If you hear a gunshot see white smoke and get a smoother running car one or both of your rotors were flooded. If you dont have any vacuum leaks its possible it will solve your idle(ideal) problem.

The airflow meter (AFM) has a built-in microswitch that keeps the fuel pump on after starting, as long as the vane inside has airflow. All second gens have them.

isn't this your car?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4q519TcChw

yeah so afm i have unplugged and now it idels good, but no 3k spike,

and car only smokes first 5 minutes {:

Question: why waste everyones time, when you had a video?

I doubt your a wrencher, you might be a bolt on guy, that bolts stuff on in a shop, but thats about it..anyone can figure out what you have asked here, with just general automotive knowledge and the FSM.....:dunno:

anyone get the idea this guy is messing with you all. I've personally had enough of this thread.

It should be moved to the lounge.

HAHA you really dont like him very much do you, Oh and yea im with him since most of the stuff he is asking I found back in 05 when I first joined. Since he knows/own/works in a honda shop maybe he should just sale the 7 and buy a cheap honda/acura and let them help him fix it.

+1