New guy, Which RX7 DO I HAVE ? @HELP@
 

ok got my first rotory i now alot about cars own a shop but not much about rx7,

so few questions:

i have a 1991 unknown model 5speed with i was told jdm swapped turbo engine ?

he said original turbo engine blew ?but the car wasent a turbo chassis ? as the hood is a non turbo ?

new engine is like new, with arc intercooler and tial bov ? he said new turbo ?

how do i tell which model it is ?

it has the split mirrors ? and everything electric inside ?

what engine do i have ? its single turbo jdm engine he said ?

whats my chassis code ?

whats s4 and s5 ? thanks

also my idle is ALWAYS at k ,,how do i fix it ?


and what are some of the first things i should chekc and or replace ?

2nd Gen Specs
2nd Gen FAQ
86-88 RX-7 Factory Service Manual
Google

If it's really a 91 then it's an S5

A picture would solve this from the start.

being a 91 NA to start off its just a BASE. they combined GXL and GTUs in 91 to make just a base

so how do i tell difference? its second gen bodystyle.

tell the difference in what? the body styles of the S4 and S5?

There's been a lot of vague and sketchy answers to this guy's questions. Unfortunately, the images of the original Mazda brochures in the FAQ have been down for about a month since they were hosted on Icemark's old site, so referring the OP to the FAQ is not really all that helpful.

First, S4 = 1986-1988, S5 = 1989-1992 (1991 in the U.S.)

In 1991, all non-turbo RX-7s were called "Coupe," not "base." There were various option packages on the Coupe. All had power windows, some had the upgraded 4-piston front brake calipers/vented rear rotors, some had the base brakes.

If the car originally had a turbo engine as the previous owner stated, then this car may have started as a Turbo model, even if now it has a hood without a scoop, which is a pretty easy swap and popular if you switch to a FMIC. If this car was a Turbo from the factory, it would have come with the upgraded brakes and the Turbo-specific seats and interior trim. Also you'd have an LSD. Is there a factory boost gauge in the instrument cluster? These are some things to look for to figure out what the car was originally. (Of course, there were apparently a few highly-optioned non-turbo Coupes that did have an LSD, but that is less common.) Maybe the best way to figure out what it was to start with is to check the tire information decal inside the driver's door. If it specifies 16" wheels, it was originally a Turbo since all NA 1991s had 15" wheels.

Unlike 1986-1990, all 1991s had power windows. Also, all '89-91s had the "split" or Aero mirrors.

As to the "chassis code," I guess you're referring to "FC" which is generally the shorthand by which these cars are known.

Trouble is, at this point nearly everything that originally was on your car may have been changed by a previous owner. Agreed that photos would help us identify the car.

The model it is: Frankenseven
The model it was: Doesn't matter, it is no longer whatever it was.

How is anybody on the internet supposed to know that without any pictures or even a description?

It is on a sticker inside the driver's side door jam.

See the FAQ. If your VIN indicates that it was made in 1991, then it was an S5. However, the S4 and S5 parts are pretty much interchangeable, so your car could have various parts put on it over the last 18 years.

Search the 2Gen forum for threads with "idle" in the title.

See chapter 00 of the 1989-1991 factory service manual and inspect all items in your car's mileage range to see if they need replacement. It would be nice if the previous owner can tell you when everything was replaced.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1989_1991/

Aaron Cake's website also lists a buying guide which lists the common problems with these cars:
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy1.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy2.htm

Things I recommend:
Engine Oil - Castrol GTX (see the manual for the proper weight for the temperature range of your region). Replace the two oil pedestal O-rings about every 50,000 miles (two needed).
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=10-1601-9954
Oil Filter - The ugly Mazda brand filter is actually very good.
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve F106 without the nipple - Makes changing oil very easy, even without jack stands if you have a low-profile oil pan.
Transmission and Differential Oil - Any type of synthetic. I like Red Line brand, but other brands are fine too.
Engine Coolant - Green ethylene glycol type mixed with distilled water.
Thermostat - Nippon
Spark Plugs - NGK
Brake Fluid - Flush the whole system with ATE Super Blue to make sure you know that it is completely flushed when the bleeding turns from amber to blue. Then next time you can either use Castrol LMA or ATE Type 200 to make sure it is fully flushed when it turns back to amber from blue.

I swapped a complete s5 interior into my s4, so if you were describing my car, no one would be able to accurately tell you JACK.

Check the door sticker and vin. That will get you the farthest.

look at teh brakes, if it is single caliper, than its a NA chassis, unless that was swapped..

Sounds like a Coupe though, mine is also a 91 coupe, but with everything converted.

mine has split windows and he replaced tranny with the jdm that came with the swap from japan, im just wondering which model original do i have turbo or gxl ro what ?

and no boost gauge on cluster its a 160mph and 9k rpm all black interior , has split mirrors and spoiler, big brakes and it has some steelies so not sure on wheels, what motor from japan.

picking car up in 3 hours then pictures sound good guys ? and sorry but same tike thanks for help !

please take some pictures if you can!

sounds like it was an N/a chassis....

engine could be anything according to your description... 13b turbo, 13b-rew, 13b-re, 20b...

whats the best 1b that there is ? ill post pictures and thanks for help and i hope u inform me with what i have etc, thanks


oh and he said the 5 speed is upgraded jdm meaning lsd ?

Seriously...can you find someone who speaks English a little better? If English is your second language, I'm not trying to be rude but people are trying to help you and 99% of what you are saying makes no sense.

stfu and don't post here if his English is bothering you. English is my second language as well and it's not cool when people talk shit especially when you are trying and learning. if you want to help then help if not stfu and go on to the next thread cause you are not f'ing helping

to the original poster, you should consider learning the most you can about these cars first b4 jumping into one.. it may become a headache if you dont know much about them and something happens.

good luck!

+1

OP, from the sound of it, your car started out as an S5 n/a (9k tach is a dead giveaway) that someone swapped a TII motor into. Pretty common, but can be a pain if the person who did the swap is a hack.

and JDM motors are a 50/50 gamble...

I'm trying to help but the ability to understand is quite crucial to that. Considering the amount of kids who post threads that sound like this, "yo dawg lik wutz gud for mah 7" you should understand.

I understand your reaction to my post considering your own experience, but if you re-read it, I simply asked if he had someone who could help make what he was asking more understandable.

If I moved to a different country I'd learn the local language...but I live in the US so it would be nice if others took the time to learn English like you did to help communication. That is all. =)

"5 speed" means the transmission, but not necessarily the differential. Most likely he included the turbo LSD, but it is also possible to attach the turbo transmmission to the non-turbo differential with a driveshaft sold by Mazdatrix, or by various ghetto methods.

Agreed. I have a lot of experience working with foreigners, leet-speaking teenagers, and the downtrodden, but the phrase "whats the best 1b that there is ?" still makes no sense to me.

Just so that you know where I am coming from, I will use the original poster's language in my reply...

iT s33m5 2 me that teh o-riginel postR iz poorlie edukated, haz mad sloppy typing skillz, uses l33t 2 much, n doesnt spell check hiz wrok. I dont c wut this has 2 do wit "trying and learning". Mane forn-speeking members on this forum hav gon thru a lot of fert n an attempt 2 communicate. Teh OP... not so much. I think teh OP should try 2 communcait betr, or hav som1 else communcait 4 him, as recommended bi Gringo Grande.

Pictures are worth a thousand words. If the car has been converted and/or repainted it could be difficult to figure out what it once was.

On another note, I agree with the idea that you should probably do more research on this car before you continue. RX7's can me a real headache if you don't know its quirks. Not only that, but if this is your first car I'd be extra careful. There is a lot of helpful people on this forum and a lot of information that can be found form using the search feature.

oh so funny. ha... gj.:jerkit: at least you tried.

oh heres pic tures, and original paint no rust,

it wont stay running it idleas 2k and dies !
if im driving and et go of gas under k it dies, and it is laggy, but man it has lots of power, when flored in second the 15" by 65 brake loose !

tell me what i have and what i should check, also what can i do to checkl vacuum and lines that are plugged ?

also oil preasure/temp dont work !
no thermostat , and lots of un plugged plug, it was converted he sai, check it out:

http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/h...9354/?newest=1

http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/h...9354/?newest=1

well i didnt know u guys just ride on people ? im starting new thread to many replies of bull shit !

LETS TRY AGAIN< NEW GUY WHAT DO I HAVE ? HELP-91 fc turbo
 

ok posted before thread with no pictures and got 10+replies of bs and smacking on me,

TRYING AGAIN:

i just bout this car for 3,300

came with truck load of extra parts from original motor like tranny,turbo , engine etc

he said jdm swap , also lsd tranny ?

car has lots of power spin in second gear when floored, has a jump idle he said it was ported ?

but problems as follow:

wont stay running, starts but have to give gas.

when driving its bogs when let of gas !

DOESNT SMOKE at all, but little oil in filter pipe.

no thermostat, oil pressure and temperature gauge don't work !
he said its jdm ecu that came with swap !

and there's barely any clutch

BUT MAIN PROBLEM is runs like crap doesn't ideal good and lots of misc and unplugged plugs,

if someone can answer all an help out 50$ paypal that second, im looking for help sorry for spelling im 48 years old and from Europe, yes i have worked on many cars and own shop but never rotaries !

thanks for help !

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN4928.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN4929.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN4930.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN4931.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN4932.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN4934.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN4935.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN4916.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN4918.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN4919.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN4921.jpg

Get one ASAP. Mazda OEM only.

Frequently Answered Questions.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=494667

Throttle Body Modification thread.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+throttle+body

Another, useful link.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+throttle+body



my paypal account is marshessn@gmail.com

i never asked anything about throttel body mods i asked to fix my problems and possibole causes and how to check what should be olugged in and out .

If you search on here your questions have been answered. The people on the other thread you started were trying to help out, but with so little info it is hard. Post a VIN or something that would help with identifying the chassis. Pictures are a good thing. Also don't start multiple threads about the same thing as it will just annoy people and in turn you will get less help. Be patient and have some thick skin, search and you will be rewarded.

maybe you should understand that things i posted were relevant to what you need.
just like you said you dont wanna hear about TB mods?
well you have one, and the only way to know 100% would be to read up.

maybe if you took a chance to read those threads instead of making a stupid reply, you would know that when a TB mod is done,

"....wont stay running, starts but have to give gas.

when driving its bogs when let of gas ! ..."

happens.

ok, well tell me please what u c in pic tures ? whats model was it gxl ?

there are no pictures. use a different or better upload service, like the forums...

carfax your VIN #...

check for vacuum leaks, do a compression test...

if you dont have any clue about your car... then you are already in over your head with this.

Your pictures don't work. Upload them into your post.

look again and heres more sir:

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN4922.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN4923.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN4925.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN4926.jpg

Looks like you have an S5 base model. From the looks of things it had been sitting for a while and you need to do a full tune up and search on here for any questions you have. Sometimes you have to search for a long time, but the info is here.

idling like crap and having poopey driving could be related to the JDM ecu.
there's a reason why not a whole lot of people use them.

idling like crap and having poopey driving could be related to the JDM ecu.
there's a reason why not a whole lot of people use them.

well i think its the swap, so what should i look to c if swap id done correctly ? whats with the plugs and wires just laying un plugged ? normal or no ? and why doesnt temperature and oil preasure gauge work ?

Don't worry too much about the unused plugs. There are a shit ton of them in these cars. I doubt it has anything to do with why it's running poorly.

Open the passenger door. Take off that plastic running board that says mazda on it. Pull up the carpet under the passenger side dash. Take out those bolts/nuts holding the aluminum plate on. Take a peek at what the number on the ECU is. Then look around the engine bay to see if other things in there have that same number. You can probably find a different turbo ECU on here for a decent price. Or a local bone yard too.


I can't tell what model you have, but you do have an 98-91.


As far as I can tell, there's an ARC aftermarket top mount intercooler, a Tial blow off valve, + aftermarket cone filter. They also re-did the grounds to get rid of a common hesitation at 3500 rpm's.



Try just a basic tune up. Plugs, fluids etc.



As for the gauges, it might be the JDM ECU.

If it's a 91, and was originally an N/A then its just a coupe. In 91 the FC's only came in Coupe, Turbo, and Convertable. The issue with it bogging and idling bad sounds possibly like a Throttle Position Sensor issue to me. Does the idle jump at all when its at a stand still? Then it probably points to a TPS. Also check to make sure all your vacuum lines are on because it also could be the result of a vacuum leak somewhere. Have you thought about removing emissions on the engine to make things simpler? http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...s_removal.html read through that, if you feel like you can do this it would make the whole system simpler and making finding your issue easier, it all depends on if you think you're up for that now or not. And if most of the plugs that are unplugged are green those are test plugs and are not plugged in. As for the gauges it could be the ECU if it is a JDM ECU, or it could be the sensors are bad or are not plugged in correctly, if thats the case it should be an easy fix for you. The oil pressure sender looks like this http://www.mazdatrix.com/86-92Electrical-Engine.htm the 5th item down on the list, and is located near the rear of the block, if there is not a plug slid onto the top nob, then that could be your issue with that. The 8th item on that page is your water temperature sender and I believe on S5s is still located on the water pump? I could be wrong but check there first to see if that item is plugged in as well. Now for the clutch issue does the clutch stick to the floor? Or does it just feel like its slipping? If the pedal sticks to the floor your culpret will either be the clutch master cylinder which is located on the right side of the wire wall, or the line that goes from the clutch master cylinder is input into the slave cylinder which is on your tranny. They will need to be rebuilt or replaced. If it's a slipping feel you're probably going to have to replace the clutch. Hopefully this helps you out.

Why another thread? You should have stuck with the initial thread. There's no reason to start multiple threads for the same thing. If the other one was getting rowdy, let a mod do their job. This thread should be closed/merged with the initial thread.

As for what it is. Who cares? Figure out what it is now and how the problems can be remedied.

Also, do what others tell you to do. Search. Although you might not wanna type leik dis n2 teh serch feel'd.

Good luck on your research

Oh another thing you'll definitely want to put a thermostat in because I noticed you said you didn't have one! If you remove the water filler neck the thermostat will go inbetween that and the water pump housing.

ok iw ill do that, why is my temp gauge at very top high point ? not working ? also oil preasure gauge,

I SEARCHED cant find a list of thing needed to be done to swap a jdm motor into non turbo 91 fc, also how do i tell which turbo/motor i have ?

also is the intercooler and bov any good ?

If you really want to know what model your car was originally, you should have at least read the advice we offered you in your other thread. Did you check the label in the driver's door jamb regarding the OEM tire sizes? If the car came from the factory with 16" tires, your chassis was originally a Turbo. If 15", it was a non-turbo. There was no GXL in 1991 so if it is a non-turbo, it is a "Coupe."

However as has been stated above, there have obviously been a lot of modifications done to your car since it was new, so what it was originally probably doesn't matter much.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/techmenu.html

This should be able to answer most of your questions I think. Are they pegged out to the top? Because that could mean that they're grounded out improperly. The motor is most likely an S5, you can read from the link I posted ways to be able to tell because there is a lot to swap the earlier series motor the later car.

And yes they're both an Improvement over stock, especially the ARC intercooler. Make sure there's a vacuum line to the BOV too just in case. You'll get there, hopefully that page will help you alot.

In English, tranny is short for transmission, which is sometimes called a gearbox in Europe. The transmission is located beneath the center of the car.
http://www.16paws.com/rx7/fd_t2_tranny_med.html

In English, LSD stands for Limited Slip Differential, which is located between the rear wheels. The LSD is supposed to have a yellow metal tag.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=1118673

The car also has what looks like a very nice TiAl blowoff valve, ARC upgraded intercooler, boost gauge, and air/fuel ratio gauge.

http://www.turborx7.com/portingpictures.htm

That could be part of the problem. Buy a Nippon thermostat. Do not buy a Stant thermostat.

Is the clutch fluid level low like the brake fluid level?

Yes, it will run like crap and not idle good if a moron performed the engine swap and unplugged the plugs. You will need to take the car to a good mechanic to fix that mess.

Two comments ( of varying usefulness)...

First, none of your issues are really "rotary" related. Once you get beyond the keg itself, all the subsystems are fairly standard automotive stuff, so don't hobble yourself thinking it's all weird rotary voodoo.
If you think of this car just like a Honda or Nissan (or whatever brands you're familiar with) that some yahoo has been all over, it might make it easier to approach.

More pertinently...the ECU has nothing to do with either the water temp or oil pressure gauge. If they aren't working, the problem lies in the sending units or the wiring to the gauge cluster but leave the ECU out of the picture...for a change, this isn't it's fault.

You really need to approach this car as though it was still a NA and you're going to swap it yourself.
Clearly, whoever did the work did not have a grasp on all the details involved, so you're going to have to assume that he screwed up everything and start from scratch.

I've been working on a swap project with a friend (V-8 into a third gen) and am constantly amazed by the sheer stupidity of the original builder(s). Not only is there a lot wrong, but it was harder to do it incorrectly than it would have been to do it right.

Assume nothing is correct and start over.