need help wiring horn button
i have a nardi competition wheel and a works bell rapfix II QR and i can't seem to figure out how to wire the horn button. i don't see any connector to plug in the wire coming from the works bell. if anyone can tell me how i can get this thing going that'd be great. i've searched and all the threads talking about how to install the whole thing are basically useless or don't say how to actually do it. i have a 91 NA FC
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4 Attachment(s)
Attachment 629703
heres the wire coming from the hub. its a spade type Attachment 629704 this is right under the hub under the steering column Attachment 629705 Attachment 629706 |
1 Attachment(s)
the way the button works is it essentially grounds itself to the steering column, if you have the stock wheel you will see a circular piece on the back which rides on a spring loaded pin.
Here is the pin im talking about Attachment 629702 I used an ebay boss kit so the install was a little different, post some pictures of what the QR looks like. |
could i use the ring from the stock wheel???
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5 Attachment(s)
heres some pics of the QR
Attachment 629697 the wire coming from the QR Attachment 629698 the inside of the hub and QR Attachment 629699 Attachment 629700 Attachment 629701 |
The collared release part of the hub goes to the Horn button.Connect the 2 wires to the horn bottom from the collared hub (attach your 6 allen screws to steering wheel)
With the diveted part(that attaches to the steering shaft hub) you can put the black to Ground and run the red to the wire that will connect (through those little screws on the other side) to line up with the RED wire on the Collared hub. Those little flush phillips screws are contacts for the collared hub to steering hub,SO IF you get them WRONG your HORN WILL BEEP when you put the steering wheel ON! That sort of lets you know that you didn't follow instructions..lol! |
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
(Post 11877031)
The collared release part of the hub goes to the Horn button.Connect the 2 wires to the horn bottom from the collared hub (attach your 6 allen screws to steering wheel)
With the diveted part(that attaches to the steering shaft hub) you can put the black to Ground and run the red to the wire that will connect (through those little screws on the other side) to line up with the RED wire on the Collared hub. Those little flush phillips screws are contacts for the collared hub to steering hub,SO IF you get them WRONG your HORN WILL BEEP when you put the steering wheel ON! That sort of lets you know that you didn't follow instructions..lol! |
I have no idea what your parts actually look like physically but perhaps this will help.
The spring loaded plunger on the column switch is carrying the ground signal from the horn relay. Connect it to ground and the horn honks. Your new hub system has to transfer this signal through the hub(s) to the horn button, without touching a ground. The signal goes to the horn button, which connects to ground when pressed. On the back of whatever the first part to go on is, there must be a copper/brass slipring that is isolated from metal. This ring transfers the signal from the spring loaded plunger to the hub assembly as it spins. There must be an insulated path from the slipring all the way through to the horn button. The horn button is usually grounded to the wheel/hub itself, which, being directly connected to the steering column, is grounded to the chassis. As I said, I don't know the specifics of how your particular parts are made, but that basic circuit is what you need to have and it should be pretty easy to figure out. |
I understand how the horn works and how the oem wheel has the ring so its always in contact with the spring loaded pin when turning the wheel. What my problem is, is since its all aftermarket and there is no ring to make contact with the spring pin. Im wondering if there is something that single red wire connects to or do i have to fab something up to make it work.
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Have a pic of the part in question?
Need to see the side that will contact the plunger (theoretically). The slipring from your original wheel is easily removeable and that's how I've adapted the many hubs I've used. |
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11877482)
Have a pic of the part in question?
Need to see the side that will contact the plunger (theoretically). The slipring from your original wheel is easily removeable and that's how I've adapted the many hubs I've used. http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/z...228_095535.jpg http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/z...228_095645.jpg the red wire is coming from the red QR base http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/z...228_095653.jpg and of course the spring pin http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/z...228_095706.jpg |
ok i figured it out but i cant take the hub off to put the ring so its useless
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Why cant you remove the hub?
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Originally Posted by jjwalker
(Post 11878119)
Why cant you remove the hub?
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Loosen the hub nut but DO NOT take the nut all the way off.
Attach steering wheel to hub. Jerk the steering wheel toward you HARD like you hate the bitch until it loosens up. (if you take the hub nut all the way off, you'll hit yourself in the face when it comes off.) |
Originally Posted by jjwalker
(Post 11878146)
Loosen the hub nut but DO NOT take the nut all the way off.
Attach steering wheel to hub. Jerk the steering wheel toward you HARD like you hate the bitch until it loosens up. (if you take the hub nut all the way off, you'll hit yourself in the face when it comes off.) |
I learned the hard way at work once. I had to take the steering wheel wheel of an older ford f150 and I took the nut all the way off and was using all the strength I had to get that mofo off. I ended up with a bloody nose and a busted lip.
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Also, try pushing one one side and pulling on the other...rocking the wheel.
The part that sticks is not the splines, it's the taper at the back. Rocking the wheel will break contact on the taper and the wheel will slide off. |
Originally Posted by jjwalker
(Post 11878177)
I learned the hard way at work once. I had to take the steering wheel wheel of an older ford f150 and I took the nut all the way off and was using all the strength I had to get that mofo off. I ended up with a bloody nose and a busted lip.
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11878193)
Also, try pushing one one side and pulling on the other...rocking the wheel.
The part that sticks is not the splines, it's the taper at the back. Rocking the wheel will break contact on the taper and the wheel will slide off. |
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