HAILERS

There is yet an easier reason that you get no vacuum at the two hose above the acv. I hinted at it earlier. The tps could be set wrong. What happens when you set the tps, and see the two lights come and go, is this. The lights on the two light test rig, are tapped into the ground signal for the Relief solenoid and the Switching solenoid. Those are the blue and grey solenoids. If the tps is set right, then you will have a ground on the blue/yellow wire, from the ECU, causing one of the test lights to come on. The other light, when it does come on, represents the ground being put on the blue/red wire from the ECU. See the wiring diagram I attached in the first jpg. Follow the blue/yellow and the blue/red wires and see how the go to the *CHECK CONNECTOR*. The CHECK CONNECTOR is that green three prong connector you connect your two light test rig to. So if you go to your car, and get on the blue connector with the positive lead in the back of the blue/yellow wire, and see a full 12volts, reach over and move the throttle while watching the meter. If the voltage goes down to approx 2volts, then I say your tps is off and needs rigging. Write back if some of the above is too rambling. I do not proof read squat. EDIT: Well, when I was talking about the ECU putting a ground on the blue/yellow or blue/red wires, I don't want you to go putting your meter on ohms and looking for a ground on those wires. You'll see a voltage drop from 12v to about 2v when that ground is put on the wires from the ECU. You knew that, but just in case.....

HAILERS

This jpg is sort of a sorry outfit, but its as near as I could find to show the two hose and nipples we're talking about. The hose actually run from the nipples to two steel pipes at or near the rear, right side of the engine. Just double checking. And the vacuum comes from the two hoses, not the two nipples sticking up from the top area of the acv. I'm sure you got it right but it never hurt to double check.

HAILERS

Sorry, I did not ask you if you have a digital meter. Sorry about that. I could be wasting your time. I re-read your earlier posts and see where the dealer set the tps a couple of years ago. That could very well explain why, when you pull the blue connector off that air continues to flow at a high rate out of the acv exaust. Also could explain the lack of a vacuum at the two hose at the top of the acv. The ECU depends on the tps being set right so it can send a ground signal to the blue and grey solenoids at the right time. Its very possible, if the tps has been set two years ago, that it out of adjustment, resulting in the blue and grey solenoids not getting their ground signals at the right time. If you have even a cheap digital volt meter (twenty bucks at Radio Shack) we can set your tps in a nanno second and that should get the blue and grey solenoids working when the should, making the emissions of the car work. Wadda ya think??? Again, sorry I did not ask about the meter.

giambrone

I think the tps may be off because it doesn't idle quite as stable as when it was first set 2 years ago. Also the dealer told me then that the throttle body needed to be replaced. They qouted me an exorbitant price, I just said no thanks and havn't done anything since. I'm not even really sure what a throttle body does, but there is some hesitation when accelerating from a complete stop in first gear (it doesn't do this when I accelerate in first gear with the wheels already spinning, only when completely stropped). It doesn't really bother me too much, plus it seems that hesitation problems are rather complex with this car so it could be any number of things...

anyways thanx for all your help, I do plan on adjusting the tps this coming weekend...

KEWLEJ

on the bottom of the smog check test result in CAlifornia says that the state of CA is offering financial assistance to make emission-related repairs. And if you do not qualify for that you may qualify for a repair cost waiver, which allows your vehicle to be registered without passing Smog Check. has anybody tried that?

matt_ledbetter

I'm in Modesto and I'm one test away from having to try that with my FD. You have to spend $450 at a certified repair shop and then you can get a waiver for 2 years.

I'm going back for my last smog check today, so I'll post the results either way.

-Matt

matt_ledbetter

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=92392

turbo dan

Hailers-
what would you suggest I check for HC's 5 times the allowable limit on an '87 TII. Everything is stock except for a downpipe and a used only for testing high flow cat?

matt_ledbetter

Dan,

In addition to the PM I sent you, it might be a sign of a bad motor. I don't know enough about rotary emissions yet, but I know a blown piston motor will give you much higher CO readings.

It could be that you just have a ton of unburnt fuel because of a bad seal.

I would test the O2 sensor first...

-Matt



-Matt

matt_ledbetter

I found the results from my Turbo II....

Same exact setup....

2500 rpm test
CO2% - 14.6
O2% - 0.4
HC (PPM) - Max 140, Average 20, Measured 13
CO% - Max 1.00, Average 0.10, Measured 0.12

-Matt

matt_ledbetter

http://www.teamfc3s.org/webboard/Forum1/HTML/001646.php