giambrone

the picture helped thanks.
I disconnected the hose and started the car. A healthy stream of air comes out irregardless of the blue solenoid being plugged in. I could practically inflate my tires with the amount of air coming out....

SO basically, my rx failed the test...
what now?

oh BTW thanks for all your help

HAILERS

GIAMBRONE.......Did you do this with a fully warmed up engine?? Probably did. Tell you what, if it does this with a warmed up engine, do this. On the right side of the engine there is the air control valve that you found. Now look at the top of the air control valve. See two vacuum hoses close together? With the engine running, pull the REAR one off, and see if you feel a vacuum on the hose. Not the nipple but the hose itself. Write back. Matter of fact, at idle both those hose should have a vacuum at the hoses themselves. Write back. This is one reason you have not been passing emissions with the flying colors you deserve (air pump air going overboard instead of where it should go.).

giambrone

I performed the test as you said...nothing, I couldn't feel any vacuum whatsoever at either the rear or the one in front of it...I even tested it with a paper.

thanks

HAILERS

Sounds to me and others, that you are not getting any vacuum to the solenoids. You should have been getting vacuum from the blue solenoid which is your Relief solenoid. SAme with the other vac hose. It, being the front one of the two above the acv, is the Switching solenoid. Tell you what. With the engine running and fully warmed up, take your meter and find a good ground for the negative lead (battery neg would be fine) then shove your meter lead in the back of the blue connector. Shove it in with the blue and yellow wire. The other wire is a black and white wire. The black and white wire should always have 12volts on it. What should happen at idle with a warmed up engine, is that the blue/yellow wire will get a ground put on it by the ECU.When that happens, the voltage will drop down to about 2-3 volts(if memory serves). When the ECU puts the ground on the blue/yellow, the solenoid opens and allows a vacuum to pass through and travel over to the other side of the engine to the rearmost of those two vac hose we have been working with. The vacuum will go down the nipple, into the acv, and pull a vacuum on a diaphram. The diaphram will close the *Relief exaust port*, which results in little or no air going overboard out that approx one inch black hose. ......Now the foremost hose of the two hose, is supplied a vacuum from the Grey plug on the Switching Solenoid. That plug shoud have a black/white wire with a constant 12v and a blue/yellow wire. The blue/red wire, at idle, fully warmed up car, will show approx 12volts, just like its black/white wire. That solenoid works just the opposite of the blue solenoid (Relief). On that one, no ground on its blue/red will allow flow thru the solenoid. That vacuum will go into the front nipple of the two were dealing with, go into the acv, pull a vacuum on the Switching diaphram, which will allow air to go to the PORT AIR hole passage and the split air passage. So at idle, check to see if the Blue solenoid has approx 2-3 volts on the blue/yellow wire and the Grey solenoid has 12v on its Blue/red wire. Its still going to be a easy fix. Just takes me a lot of words to describe how. If the voltages read as above, I'd be suspicious as to whether the solenoids are getting a vacuum from the bottom of the three *vacuum* hose on the front of the throttle body. I don't think the ECU went **** up because I think you wrote that you used a two light assy to rig the tps. I could be wrong about that. Too lazy to re-read the post. I'll attach two jpg:

HAILERS

LOOKY TWO:

HAILERS

There is yet an easier reason that you get no vacuum at the two hose above the acv. I hinted at it earlier. The tps could be set wrong. What happens when you set the tps, and see the two lights come and go, is this. The lights on the two light test rig, are tapped into the ground signal for the Relief solenoid and the Switching solenoid. Those are the blue and grey solenoids. If the tps is set right, then you will have a ground on the blue/yellow wire, from the ECU, causing one of the test lights to come on. The other light, when it does come on, represents the ground being put on the blue/red wire from the ECU. See the wiring diagram I attached in the first jpg. Follow the blue/yellow and the blue/red wires and see how the go to the *CHECK CONNECTOR*. The CHECK CONNECTOR is that green three prong connector you connect your two light test rig to. So if you go to your car, and get on the blue connector with the positive lead in the back of the blue/yellow wire, and see a full 12volts, reach over and move the throttle while watching the meter. If the voltage goes down to approx 2volts, then I say your tps is off and needs rigging. Write back if some of the above is too rambling. I do not proof read squat. EDIT: Well, when I was talking about the ECU putting a ground on the blue/yellow or blue/red wires, I don't want you to go putting your meter on ohms and looking for a ground on those wires. You'll see a voltage drop from 12v to about 2v when that ground is put on the wires from the ECU. You knew that, but just in case.....

HAILERS

This jpg is sort of a sorry outfit, but its as near as I could find to show the two hose and nipples we're talking about. The hose actually run from the nipples to two steel pipes at or near the rear, right side of the engine. Just double checking. And the vacuum comes from the two hoses, not the two nipples sticking up from the top area of the acv. I'm sure you got it right but it never hurt to double check.

HAILERS

Sorry, I did not ask you if you have a digital meter. Sorry about that. I could be wasting your time. I re-read your earlier posts and see where the dealer set the tps a couple of years ago. That could very well explain why, when you pull the blue connector off that air continues to flow at a high rate out of the acv exaust. Also could explain the lack of a vacuum at the two hose at the top of the acv. The ECU depends on the tps being set right so it can send a ground signal to the blue and grey solenoids at the right time. Its very possible, if the tps has been set two years ago, that it out of adjustment, resulting in the blue and grey solenoids not getting their ground signals at the right time. If you have even a cheap digital volt meter (twenty bucks at Radio Shack) we can set your tps in a nanno second and that should get the blue and grey solenoids working when the should, making the emissions of the car work. Wadda ya think??? Again, sorry I did not ask about the meter.

giambrone

I think the tps may be off because it doesn't idle quite as stable as when it was first set 2 years ago. Also the dealer told me then that the throttle body needed to be replaced. They qouted me an exorbitant price, I just said no thanks and havn't done anything since. I'm not even really sure what a throttle body does, but there is some hesitation when accelerating from a complete stop in first gear (it doesn't do this when I accelerate in first gear with the wheels already spinning, only when completely stropped). It doesn't really bother me too much, plus it seems that hesitation problems are rather complex with this car so it could be any number of things...

anyways thanx for all your help, I do plan on adjusting the tps this coming weekend...

KEWLEJ

on the bottom of the smog check test result in CAlifornia says that the state of CA is offering financial assistance to make emission-related repairs. And if you do not qualify for that you may qualify for a repair cost waiver, which allows your vehicle to be registered without passing Smog Check. has anybody tried that?

matt_ledbetter

I'm in Modesto and I'm one test away from having to try that with my FD. You have to spend $450 at a certified repair shop and then you can get a waiver for 2 years.

I'm going back for my last smog check today, so I'll post the results either way.

-Matt

matt_ledbetter

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=92392

turbo dan

Hailers-
what would you suggest I check for HC's 5 times the allowable limit on an '87 TII. Everything is stock except for a downpipe and a used only for testing high flow cat?

matt_ledbetter

Dan,

In addition to the PM I sent you, it might be a sign of a bad motor. I don't know enough about rotary emissions yet, but I know a blown piston motor will give you much higher CO readings.

It could be that you just have a ton of unburnt fuel because of a bad seal.

I would test the O2 sensor first...

-Matt



-Matt

matt_ledbetter

I found the results from my Turbo II....

Same exact setup....

2500 rpm test
CO2% - 14.6
O2% - 0.4
HC (PPM) - Max 140, Average 20, Measured 13
CO% - Max 1.00, Average 0.10, Measured 0.12

-Matt

matt_ledbetter

http://www.teamfc3s.org/webboard/Forum1/HTML/001646.php