Use a regular compression tester and let the pressure build. Should be over 100psi in 3sec with a strong battery.

Set your main pulley to the yellow mark (or the mark to the "right" nearest the coils, if your pulley doesn't have paint on the notch) Remove the distributor and remove the cap then set the distributor marker (arrow) on the base of the distributor nearest the gear in line with the divot on the gear shaft itself.. Hold the rotating assembly inside the distributor still and stab it back into the front cover... That should put you within tweaking distance of spot on for your timing.

I wouldn't recommend running it for very long in it's current condition, you will damage the new engine and/or set the car on fire. If the timing is set close the car will not have a hard time idling. So the fact that you say it runs at 1400rpm strengthens my assumption that the timing is off even further.

A rebuilt motor will be a little down on power initially, but should NOT have any problems moving normally under its own power at normal rpm range from minute one.... Biggest problem on a rebuild is idle and fuel consumption until compression runs up.

Good luck dude.

Took the whole DLIDFIS setup out, and replaced it with a stock ignition.

Runs like a charm.

In other words, something seems to be messed up with the DLIDFIS setup itself... need to take it apart and re-check everything.

Idleig at about 900 - 1000rpm at the end of the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6EaGSPa2SU

How does it drive under load?

Nothing like in the videos I posted before.

It pulls, it even pulls harder than it did before the rebuild... and the engine wasn't blown or anything -- it was stock with 75k miles.

Throttle response with the failing DLIDFIS was impossibly awful... you floored the pedal and had like 1sec lag before the engine revved up.

Even starting it up is a billion times easier.

Oh... and the exhaust isn't glowing anymore!

And there you have it ;)

Does sound like an exhaust leak though.

Got rid of the exhaust leaks

Just messing around a little... still have to figure out what's wrong with the DLIDFIS setup... running regular (dizzy) ignition at the moment

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDHRdcIHoEQ

nice job. this is pretty legit.

Sounds like a serious vacuum leak.

Trying to figure out what was wrong with the DLIDFIS setup, we finally figured that something was actually wrong with the DLIDFIS diagrams we had... the green cable form the dizzy had to connect to the GM module's W terminal, and the red one had to go to the G terminal.

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Natalia, my girlfriend, helping out!

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She modified the filter box to make the HKS filter fit in

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Perfect job!

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"Asado" with friends!

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All done! (for now...)

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRo5RqwY9t8

Now I just need to break her in... and continue with the mods :D

Attachment 716443

Looking the pictures the first thought that popped into my head was "why the fuck is she wearing a scarf?". Then I realized while its close to 100 here you're prolly in winter.

Hehehe, exactly! That was a pretty cold saturday morning

Did you plug the pipes on the bottom of the rubber intake tube after getting rid of the IAC? It looks like the large one is open in the picture with the glowing exhaust pipe... If so that would cause the AFM to be out of whack.

The pipes are properly blocked :)

850 miles already! Running stronger and stronger...

Can't wait to reach the 1000 mile mark! Shifting at 4000rpm is a torture!

Here are my pretty premix bottles :)

Attachment 716444

I just have an old 20oz sprite bottle I have different measurements on for my premix.

So I came across a fue issues... maybe you guys can help me out here...

I even made a seperate thread to see if I get some input on this...
https://www.rx7club.com/general-rotary-tech-support-11/distributor-timing-advance-issues-please-help-972651/#post10817955

The car was running great, had plenty of power... sometimes had a tad more, some other times a tad less... but overall pretty good.

About a week ago, my brake booster craps out. The brake master cylinder was leaking a bit into it, eventually destroying it. So I took it to a shop and they rebuilt it. Good.

Now... I installed the rebuilt brake booster... no issues. I start the engine... no issues. Now... I take it for a spin, and the car feels like it has about 50% de power it had before... idles just fine, but I get sluggish acceleration, pretty aggresive backfires, RPMs going up in an irregular manner, bucking, etc.

I immediately assumed this was some kind of ignition issue, so I checked timing with a timing light. Strangely, no issues there... car idles at about 1200rpm, and I get 5* L/20* T (stock). The car still runs like shit though.

So... what now? Since the only thing I did for the car to run like this was fixing the brake booster... I thought it may be some sort of vacuum-related issue. Maybe the vacuum advance or something was working semi-properly with the leaky/broken booster, and the fixed one messed everything up for some reason...

So I disconnected the 2 vacuum hoses at the distributor and... the car runs better. Not 100% better, but I would say... 85% better.

Now... why would this happen? What should I do? :(

I have not followed the thread along. Just read this last post.

I would agree you had some sort of brake booster vac leak that you adjusted everything to and made it work well.

I would go through all the tune-up procedures. Including setting the TPS, timing, idle, etc

First... to correct my previous post, Leading is set to 0º, and Trailing is at +20º

Engine's idleing at about 1100rpm, TPS is now set to 0.98k Ohm... was at about 0.8

So I was just checking timing again... and I noticed this...

With the distributor vacuum hoses disconnected, I was able to see the timing advancing progressively when pushing the throttle.

Now... with the vacuum hoses connected I tried the same thing... and I noticed that timing advanced VERY abruptly... I just feathered the throttle linkage and I could see timing going from 0º to about -12º instantly... in about just a 100rpm difference (yes, a hundred).

Any ideas? :(

So... I haven't had the time yet to fiddle around with the brake issues, but I will tomorrow.

Still... my car now seems to be riddled with shit and issues... out of nowhere

Power's pretty shitty... I have a timing light with me and will set the timing properly tomorrow...

When shifting... gears won't go in unless engine revs are under 2000~2200rpm... happens with every single gear

... and just to add to the while shit situation... today I did a slightly aggresive turn while driving and for a second or two the car completely lost power...

Your distributor has two forms of timing advance. 1 is mechanical, a weight and spring setup that will advance strictly based on rpm. 2. is the vacuum advance diaphragm, which the two hoses go to. The help to advance the timing based on engine vacuum, which is the abrupt timing increase you see based on little throttle inputs. I would be fearful of a "rebuilt" brake booster, as I have NEVER heard of that done before. That could and very may well be causing a nasty vacuum leak in the engine, which will fuck up idea and make the car run badly). TPS should be set based on voltage at the ECU(1vdc) not based on resistance, since the resistance method doesnt take into account the resistance in the wiring harness itself. If you're having problems shifting I would look at the clutch hydraulics or possibly a problem with the clutch itself.

I personally would get the TPS set properly and cap off the brake booster line from the manifold to verify it isnt a vacuum leak. then start searching for problems with those two things out of the way.

Any luck with this thing?

Yeah... nothing nice

On the shifting issue... seems like I destroyed the clutch disc during my several "engine vs brakes" fights

Regarding brakes... I just got a full caliper rebuild kit and a new brake master cylinder... seems like the one I had had been repaired and was causing the whole brakes dragging/locking issue -- since playing around with the pedal/piston didn't help much

When I get this whole thing sorted I'll go back to setting the ignition timing

So, after a long while, I have all this stuff going in during the next couple of days...

Attachment 716445

- FD Alternator
- Dual-Sheave Alternator Pulley
- 2 Alternator Belts
- Quick Release Hub + Steering Wheel
- Front + Rear Caliper Rebuild Kits
- Brake Master Cylinder
- Water Pump

More updates!

FD Alternator + Dual-Sheave Pulley

Attachment 716451

Steering-wheel is in...

Attachment 716452

Now... when replacing the waterpump, I came across this... this is the leaky old one...

Attachment 716453

Plastic impeller? WTF?

The new one isn't plastic, gladly

Oh, and the brake master cylinder I got earlier wasn't the right one... seems like my car has S5 T2 brakes, so I had to order another one -- much lighter, aluminium

Attachment 716454

aaaaand some other stuff came in!

Attachment 716455

New sparkplug wires since the old ones were already failing

Attachment 716456

New plugs, new plug combo... BUR7EQ for Leading since they are direct-fire, and BR8EQ-14 for Trailing since they go through the dizzy (DLIDFIS)

Attachment 716457

A nice pair of hub-centric spacers for the rear

Attachment 716458

Ever get it running right?

More information on the br8eq-14 plugs what are they form?

... the Gen I cars.

remember, this car have ignition distributor from GSL SE

Some updates... I also got a Foresight roof spoiler... makes me want to get the stock one back too!

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and also got this... a *cute* eBay muffler and Rotary-Works Header... those are 2.5" OD primaries... huge!

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That thing is going to be fucking loud.

^Thats a feature! :) Could we get a video when its on?

Finally got to work on the car a bit again... haven't gotten the exhaust in, but was able to install a couple of other things

Attachment 661395

Getting all the pulleys out, was a PITA

Attachment 661396

... and trying to fit the Rotary Works Gilmer pulley kit in... FAR from being plug-n-play -- a lot of modification required

Attachment 661397

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Food time

Attachment 661399

And after several hours, finally we got the Gilmer kit working, and also intalled the e-fan I bought years ago

Attachment 661400

I'm glad I was able to keep the power steering -- just got the stock pulley and stacked it on the new Gilmer one

I'm slightly worried that the e-fan isn't turning on by itself when the engine gets to operating temps... but at the same time, weather's pretty cold down here at the moment, and with the new pulleys buzzing while driving, I haven't heard it turning on either. The small AC e-fan does turn on every once in a while, but that's it. No overheating at all.

I located my e-fan thermostat in the plug located at the bottom driver's side of the radiator... is it a good place for it? Or should I tap into the water pump housing/neck for a better temp reading?

First off, should have got the gimer kit from mazdatrix. Theirs is plug n play. My buddy had bought the rotary works kit and had to have machine work done to them. On the other hand, they are half the price as the mazdatrix set, so i guess if you can make them fit your sel then money saved.


Second, the belt that came with your rotary works gilmer set is one size too small and will burn up your alternator. You have to order a one size larger belt (maxdatrix sends the wrong size belt too). Its i think a 300 tooth count and the next one up is a 320 tooth count i think. My buddy burned up his new fd alternator with that small belt. You can find the belt for $25 online but i dont remember where? Lol. Just search for 320 tooth count gilmer belt. Also the gilmer belt is supposed to have like hslf an inch of slack compared to a vbrlts 1/8" or whatever it is. Once you get the correct size belt then it will qiuet down a lot. My buddies car is a large street port turbo car with a straight pipe and a straight through muffler and all you could hear before was the belt not his exhaust lol.


Third, put the sensor on the top of the radiator, just when the coolant comes in from the thermostat it will trip the sensor and turn the fan on.

Ok, so I relocated the sensor -- was originally here:

Attachment 661020

... and now it's here

Attachment 661021

My question now is... this sensor turns the fan on at 88ºC / 190ºF, which sounds good... but it turns it off at about 79ºC / 174.2ºC -- is this a problem? I heard the thermostat opens up at about 177~183ºF

Please let me know what you guys think :)

The theromostat hould open at 185* F but it takes time gor the coolant to get out ao by the time it reaches the sensor its at 190* and then it cools down and shuts off. It will work fine. The thermostat control sensor i used previously was adjustable for different temps but it broke and the fan just decided not to come on one day. Warranteed it out like 4 times within a tear and a half. Now its on with ignition power (through a relay of course). I need to buy a new kit for it. It takes so long to reach operating temp :( just a temporary thing until i fifure out what to do.

The theromostat hould open at 185* F but it takes time gor the coolant to get out ao by the time it reaches the sensor its at 190* and then it cools down and shuts off. It will work fine. The thermostat control sensor i used previously was adjustable for different temps but it broke and the fan just decided not to come on one day. Warranteed it out like 4 times within a tear and a half. Now its on with ignition power (through a relay of course). I need to buy a new kit for it. It takes so long to reach operating temp :( just a temporary thing until i fifure out what to do.

Thanks for the feedback! :)

Of course dude. Thats what were here for :)

Did you order the longer gilmer belt yet?

Been searching a bit but I am having no luck finding it :(

I asked my buddy (who has it) to post and sent him the link. If he doesnt post i will get the website from him.

Btw, lunch in that pic up there, wth is are those? Loks delicious! Lol im a cook and always attracted to foreign foods with great presentation :)

Great! That would be really helpful


Those are called "empanadas". The ones at the top which look "closed" are the actual empanadas, the "open" ones are called "canastitas", and are basically an open version of the empanada.

The filling for these tend to be either spiced ground meat with green olives (and sometimes eggs, and even raisins), ham and cheese, chicken, cheese + prosciutto + arugula, cheese + dried tomatoes + basil, and well... whatever you may like, hehe.

More info here -- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Empanada
Specifically the Argentinian variants

Hi!!! I'm the buddy with the link :] this belt has been on my engine for about 2k miles now, no problems whatsoever.


I have the same kit as you and subsequently had the same problem. Hope this helps =]

Great! Thanks a ton! :)

-- btw, got a sweet deal and bought this

Attachment 660396

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Attachment 660399

- TWM 48mm ITBs + Short Horns + TPS
- Racing Beat UIM for 13B 6-Port engines
- 2x 550cc injectors
- Fuel Rail + FPR

:D

And I also forgot to mention I got these, so I can send the whole dizzy setup to hell as soon as I go standalone

Attachment 660379

Great, now you have ITBs while keeping the aux ports working :) I am doing a similar build (see sig) and I was just wondering on how you get proper vacuum for your brake booster. Shame on me I actually forget on where the boosters vacuum hooks up tp. (Neither of my cars is stock anymore lol)

Oh btw I really want to hear how that thing sounds with ITBs ^^ Thats going to be awesome :icon_tup:

Yes vids asap when those itbs are installed. Your going to love that induction noise. I have used a side draft carb set up a few times (dell'ortos) an even with my loud ass exhaust if i would go half throttle the intake noise would be as loud as my exhaust. It wa so cool!

Im planning an ida set up for the big bridgeport engine but until then i have to figure out my injector issue (stock efi again currently)

Yes! That should be good!


I hope this helps --

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Here's a more clear shot on where it connects to the LIM

Attachment 660275