go for it and write your results. im planning on this in the next few, and say your engine doesnt need a rebuild but you wanna rebuild it, do i need a whole bigass kit for like 1000 dollars or can i just buy what i need for cheaper

Doing a full rebuild is always recommended, but you can always open your engine, check what parts you need to replace and only replace those, if you happen to be on a budget.

well its just that my engine has maybe 10k on it and it was just opened out of the crate so i know everything should be okay, i just wanna port my engine myself, and clean it all up while im down there.

This is how she's sitting right now... waiting for some MSD Blaster 2 coils and ignitors to arrive for the DLIDFIS setup

Attachment 716412

it's all looking good from where i stand.

I got those holes in the rotor housings welded then I ground them down smooth. I put the inserts back in but with my port job I'm thinking of taking them out.

SHE'S ALIIIIIVE! :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2xQFLT1wls

I wouldnt worry about the sleeves i ve been running without them for a while with no issues. and good job with the car. by the way i like your sound effects and fast fowarding on your video!!!!

Fixed the last details on the ABS delete :)

Attachment 716413

Coils and ignitors finally arrived... finally ready to work on the DLIDFIS setup :)

Attachment 716414

Motor doesn't sound like its running properly at all in your video. One of the rotors keeps dropping out...either an ignition or fuel problem.

i had a nice stock SA a few years ago (NODE has it now) and the Reactor system really works very well, even the 35 year old untouched original car breezes thru the CA smog check.

If I lived out in cali I would probably just throw one on my n/a every year or two(dont know what it is out there) to make smog easy. Thank god NC only requires "smog" on OBD-II vehicles =D

i want that lower intake manifold :) how hard is it to come by one of those ?

Just fiddling around with some details

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWgOgHZQjEk

Any idea what brand itbs tgat is? I'm in love. I can't find much for itbs for a 13b

TweakIt ITB's

Check them out:
http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_...roducts_id=117

I havn't seen one yet. Seeing his made me start looking for one.

Getting some more stuff... aluminium oil catch can

Attachment 716415

... a gunmetal shift knob, and a slim HID kit, since my old "fat" one died

Attachment 716416

DLIDFIS is finally in! :)

Attachment 716417

You can see 2 MSD Blaster 2 coils at the front, and the stock one near the engine.

The big heat-sink at the back is mated to 3 GM HEI ignitors.

efihardware also has them.

http://www.efihardware.com/products/...ttle-Body-Kits

should have painted the engine :)

I know I know :(

Almost thereeee :lol:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9vO0QYZBvg

Very interesting. What are you gonna do for the rest of the exhaust?

ok that was weired :D

Right now... just that, the S4 header and no cats.

After breaking in the engine, I'll go with a fully custom exhaust.

2" OD primaries, collected, and 3" from the collector to the back.

Wow what a different build! a exhaust might be a good idea, no emissions made my n/a would shoot flames sometimes. bad news if it shoots it under your car.
I like how rare our cars are getting. I never see them anymore.

heh Initial D fan?
I think i stayed up three days straight watching the whole series.

Now every time I look at my FC I wish i was downhill racing. heh,
But awesome build
Keep up the good work.

Some updates!

My precious.

Attachment 716418

Our home-made injector tester

Attachment 716419

Getting rid of the remaining ABS thingies... cables and the computer itself

Attachment 716420

Attachment 716421

Going wing-less!

Attachment 716422

Attachment 716423

Some more detailed pics of the DLIDFIS setup

Attachment 716424

2x MSD Blaster 2 coils for Leading

Attachment 716425

1x OEM coil for Trailing

Attachment 716426

3x GM HEI ignition modules, with a big heat sink

Attachment 716427

With only a couple of kilometers since the Rebuild it still runs terrible, hehehe -- idleing at about 1400rpm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzSCitjncaE

I'm in love, hehehe

Attachment 716428

Fiddling around with the timing and the lean/rich pot

Attachment 716429

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jfdwCawJE8

Glowing exhaust section...

Attachment 716430

Bye bye old fat HID kit

Attachment 716431

Hi new, slim one

Attachment 716432

... and new gunmetal shift-knob

Attachment 716433

Oil catch can installed, where the ABS pump and and Cruise Control used to be

Attachment 716434

Attachment 716435

... and that's it for now

Oops, disregard. ;)

IS it running right yet? I've never had a rebuild sound like that when I started it....

Check out the videos I posted, it is running.

Sorry, but it sounds awful. Your exhaust should NOT be glowing. Something is VERY wrong.

Seriously, how would you expect it to sound?

It's a just rebuilt, NA 13B with a huge exhaust port, and bits and pieces of other rotary cars... DLIDFIS ignition, an archaic ECU, thermal reactor/heat exchanger exhaust with a S4 NA header... no cats...

That exhaust section glowing is basically because the "tune" is shit at the moment

Something is very wrong. It shouldn't be making the exhaust glow.

You deleted the exhaust diffusers, right? Doing that kills the flow through the exhaust port which may be partially why it sounds so bad, but I still think something else is wrong. It sounds very bad.

Timing is more than likely way off which is a ez fix. If it we're my car woulda kept stock coils and tossed a msd box on the leading.

When you say the stock coils, you refer to the FC coils? Remember... my car didn't even come out of the factory with those coils, not even a CAS. This car came with an electronic distributor and "those" coils... FB-style ignition.

DLIDFIS sounded like the best way to go, before getting a standalone EMS.

Regarding timing... the thing is that setting it right isn't easy with the car idleing at about 1400rpm... we can get it down to about 1000rpm but it isn't very stable at the moment.

Pineapple Racing's Rob Golden recommended to set Leading to 0° with this type of intake/exhaust porting.

I'm also open to any other tips or feedback you guys might want to share :lol:

Set the motor at tdc, zero out ur distributor and go from there. Had same problem when I stabbed my cas a tooth or 2 off.

I'm looking forward to seeing this thing in full operation. Great build, dude! Keep it up.

Thanks a lot for the tip. I'll look into that as soon as possible!

Yeah, it is running like it is 180degress out of time or something.

My point was I have rebuilt motors and they don't run that poorly when started, It was limping around and seems that it must be detonating in the exhaust for it to be that red hot.

Having been around rotaries for the past 8 years, hearing dozens upon dozens of engines, some stock, some heavily modified and everything in between, I never heard one that sounded like yours. I've done the "walk of shame" driving home with a blown motor, it didn't sound as bad. I am sorry you felt insulted, but your engine sounds terrible. Something is wrong.

Timing WAY off can cause the exhaust to get that hot and glow. You said you were playing with the "lean/rich pot" are you referring to the screw adjustment of the vaf or does your car also have a standard s4 variable resistor? I ask because i have no idea what is standard to that ecu.

No one knows what is standard on this ECU :(

Yes, I am talking about the variable resistor.

-- btw, if you guys can help me out with this I would be impossibly happy :)

Have you checked compression since the rebuild? My very large street port(intake/exhaust) idles like stock. Your car should absolutely NOT run the way it does, it sounds terrible.

checking timing is key, but also make sure your coils are firing, especially in order. Don't want any backwards or upside down.

What kind of numbers should I expect from a freshly rebuilt engine with less than 40 miles?

By the way... let's not forget this engine came with a thermal reactor... this means that stock, it ran even richer than a S4 NA engine.