Motor Is Hard to Turn
 

Ok I rebuilt my motor last year and had a few problems getting it started. Finally did and now the past few times I have run it, about 20 seconds into it, it just stops. it doesn't stall out, it just stops as if some one stuck a wrench in there. Now it is hard to turn, by hand and when trying to start it. I am still in the ATF to get compression stage. I anyone has any ideas let me know.

Thanks
Ryan

E shaft end play ........not enough or too much.

how would i remedy that?

First check the endplay with a dial indicator. Check your specs from OEM.
Sounds like you don't have enough. Once ur thrust bearing heats up it expands, doesn't have enough clearence and seizes.
Can also be a # of other things, but start there.

If you go to the factory service manual that is free and online, you WILL see a procedure to check to see if the Torrington bearings have dropped and everything is as it is supposed to be. the measurement requires the front E shaft pulley bolt be removed. Then you measure from the front of the Eshaft to the front of the pulley boss. The measurement should be 0.0961 MAX.

It's shown on page 1-67 of the 1987 manual on page 1-67.

Then again, it could be another thing.

Thanks, I am going to check all of that tomorrow. and maybe take the front cover off just for the hell of it and check all of that crap out. Again thanks and I will let you know what i discover.

Ryan

couldnt it be excessiv ecarbon build up??

I found the problem. I had taken out the front bolt a while back and in doing so a bearing dropped. I killed the bearing, hurt the thrust washer and destroyed the thrust plate. i think the spacer is still good but i am going to keep looking at it. Thanks for the hepl folks here is a pic.

Damn...that sucks...

Ouch. Remember that by doing that, you may have spread metal shavings throughout the engine. Pull your oil filter and split it in half to check for evidence of this. The babbet on the main bearings will absorb some of this, but if too much of it goes through, you will rapidly wear all the bearings in the engine. At the least, it will cause premature wear. At the worst, it will seize the engine and kill the bearings, stationary gears, rotors, eccentric, etc. And running with metal in the oil could cause the rotors to grind down the irons, thus making them unusable.

After a failure like this, you need to totally flush the oil system. Flush the pan, engine (use an air compressor to force oil through it) and oil cooler (make sure to heat the oil as to activate the bypass thermostat).

I don't think any of that is needed because i didn't run it that much. it did mess up the front of the main bearing on the stationary gear too. But that is all the inside of the bearing was fine. I put in another stationary gear and new of everything that was toast. should have it all back together tomorrow. The good news is that i can turn it by hand again so i think all is good. i love just having parts lying around.

i got it all back together, and i started it up. Runs a whole hell of a lot better. even ran on its own, but eventually stalled when it got warmed up. rpms got to low and the compression isn't top notch just yet. but i am very happy, its on its way.

i hope you at least changed the oil and filter...

It's quite likely that there are CHUNKS of metal that have gone through both the oil pump and and oil cooler It would have been best to flush everything. Engine oiling problems are NOT GOOD:

http://www.aaroncake.net/misc/tonypics/008.jpg

http://www.aaroncake.net/misc/tonypics/012.jpg

http://www.aaroncake.net/misc/tonypics/015.jpg

http://www.aaroncake.net/misc/tonypics/030.jpg

http://www.aaroncake.net/misc/tonypics/039.jpg

(Also notice the crappy ports on that center iron).

i will look into the metal chunk issue of course. but mine was not as bad as yours Aaron. there were no metal shavings at all on the shaft or around it. but i will get new oil and stuff.

Thanks

they make magnetic oil pan drain plugs to collect metal shavings. Or you can put a magnet in the pain. That would require you to drop the pan to check it, but it will attract bigger pieces of metal than a magnetic drain plug since the drain plug on the 13B is on the side of the pan and not the bottom.