Mastercylinder replacement
 

Brake mastercylinder:

anyone removed and replaced it? any issues?

Naww.. its pretty easy.. just make sure to bench bleed it. And have a ton of paper towels handy. That shit it messy.

i just want to remove the plastic top... cant figure how to take it off.

Well.. I *THINK* you just pull REALLY hard... don't pull at an angle or pry.. it'll break it off inside the master.

hmm, you sure?

Nope.... thats why I used the word "THINK". :)

pull really hard and it will come off. Pull at an angle or pry and it will break. Learned from personal experience about a broken reserve tank.

pull really really hard, like put in table vise and both hands on tank hard

its got a real thick O ring which pretty much keeps it in place.
So YES pull hard and even.. pull straight out other wise you can damage either one.
(Tip i got from a Just Brakes CT when i took in my car for the bleed)

-edit, a friend of mine which does my brakes at his job showed me how one day i was hangin out w/him at his job waitin for him to get out of work :molepoke: :icon_tup:

so how do oyu bench bleed it anyways >_<

When I got mine, each brake line hold had little red plugs in them. I filled the reservoir, and pressed the "plunger" with a screwdriver (I held the MC with both hands, had the screwdriver handle against my belly). I unplugged the first hole, closest to the rear, when fluid came out I plugged it again.

Release pressure on the plunger/screwdriver, and press again. Remove second plug, wait for fluid, plug it, release, etc.

I don't know if that's the "correct" way, but it worked for me.

Every FC I have bought has to have brake work done. It's hydraulics every time. I'm about to start the 3rd.

When I bled my master cylinder I did it a clean way. I hooked up the master cylinder to the brake booster as it sits normally in the car while it was dry.I then hooked up some plastic threaded nipples to each of the brake line conections.

After connecting these I ran a piece of vacuum sized hose from each nipple in the fluid resivior. Next I filled the resivior with fluid. I then secured the hoses so they would take some pressure and not move all over.

I then had an assistant sit in the car and SLOWLY press the brake pedal. Eventually fluid would come through the hoses and push the air out too. All the air bubbles will quickly rise to the top of the resivior and only fluid will be pulled in.

repeat this procedure for awhile until no bubble come out. Then pull the nipples one ata time while connecting the brake lines. The bleed the brakes at the calipers in regular order (PR, DR, PF, DF).

Just place a towel under the master cylinder to absorb and drip when connecting the lines.

how are you guys taking the reservoir off? flat head screw driver?

I used two hands and pulled like heck. It has two large grommets that the nipples on the bottom of the reservoir go through and they are TIGHT.

Maybe pull a little harder on one end then harder on the other end and grunt a lot. PUll HARD.

lol... is this the only way? i have this feeling i will break it!

no hercules.. you wont break it.

Just brakes wont touch my car since it has "aftermarket brake parts" (Hawk HPS pads.)

Wow. thats gay.

You saying its not possible? :) I broke one-one time. Had to go dumster diving at the local u-pull-it.

haha.. well hercules, i think you went super saiyan to actually manage to break it.. congratulations! you've ascended hahaha..

Hehe... Naww. I think it was just old and brittle.

when you refill you brake fuild use DOT 3 thats the good S*it

you guys use DOT 3? I thought you were supposed to use laundry detergent.... :pat:

No... DOT3 is the NORMAL stuff.. I think you'd have a hard time finding anything less than DOT3.

I always use AP Racing fluids... The 5.1 stuff is really good, but pretty expensive.