A little help with cleaning up rats nest
 

I am pulling the rats nest and following the guides as much as possible but wanted to know if all the following need to be blocked off or if they need to be ran and where. Does it matter which vacuum port goes where?

The twinscroll is on the other side of the upper intake(this is all upper intake) and the middle vacuum port, correct?

S4/s5?
TII/NA?

s4 TII

I have a diagram for an S5 TII. I don't know for sure what the differences are, but here it is anyways.

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/l...e-routing2.png

I still wonder about the larger ports that are circled and what they need to be connected to if anything or if they should just be blocked off.

and there is one that is larger in the set of 4, is there something special it needs hooked up to?

I honestly have no idea. My S5 does not have those same nipples I do not believe. Where does the FSM show them going?

Here's a recent thread I posted about when I removed my rats nest. I also have an S4 TII and follwed the diagram in the thread exactly. It really cleaned up the area under the UIM. Just be ready for the new fuel lines. $7 a foot, I bought 6 ft and ended up with a little extra. Hopefully this helps.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/double-rats-nest-removal-twin-scroll-addition-913213/

I gotta question about your vacuum setup. I'm trying to run a S5 myself. I'm trying to remove the emissions and realized the vacuum lines hook to everything. I wanted to know if setting it up like that effects the way the motor runs at all? And if so, what did you have to do to fix it.

that big one is a vac for the brake booster

Vacuum/rats nest reduction definitely affects the way the motor runs. Some of the systems removed have a purpose but in real life don't do a whole lot: EGR (s4), hot start solenoid (aka fuel pressure control), double throttle system, sub zero start system (s4). Removing the air pump and ACV will make your car backfire and smell rich. Removing the BAC valve, fast idle system, or deceleration damper (dashpot) can make your car stall. Removing the twin scroll solenoid system on the s4 T2 will hurt your low end torque. On the n/a engines the vacuum routing and emissions equipment are also tied in to the intake air systems (6 port and VDI system) so you have to be mindful of those.

Now with all that being said... on an s5, if you pull everything out and just raise the idle up with the stopper screw then it will still run ok and have a lot less crap to fail. You won't have a clean-smelling exhaust or the most consistent idle, but you can make it work. It comes down to what you're using the car for and your preferences.

There's nothing to really "fix" from emissions removal that is done correctly (no vacuum leaks), only things to tolerate.

I do not honestly know. I removed my emissions from my TII engine before swapping it, so I couldn't tell you if it effects how it runs or not. I removed my emissions stuff to simplify my setup, and to help eliminate any potential problems before start-up.

I kept my BAC as I kept A/C. I had to adjust the TPS and set the timing to get it to idle correctly, but rather then that it runs good, no stalls or anything weird.

I do get occational "fireballs" after the exhaust is nice and hot, also the exhaust coming out does stink (IMO any car with the cat removed smells about the same).

I appreciate the help guys. I'm still getting familiar with all this.

lunchbox. I have a few questions about your diagram though.
Where on the UIM where is your pressure sensor line attached?
On the oil filler neck did you cap off the lines besides the ones for your oil catch can?
what's the random vac line in the middle of the LIM?

One more stupid question. Where do you get those caps?

Pressure sensor is connected to the nipple below the BAC.

I ran both lines off of the oil filler neck to the catch can. (I'm unsure if that is how it is supposed to be, but it seems to be working)

That random line is where on my manifold it has two nipples that I connected to one another. That is how they were when I swapped the lines to silicon so I just put it back that way. Here is a picture of it.

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/l...DSC01114-2.jpg

Those caps you should be able to get at any Auto Parts store.

Thanks man your being a big help. I got another one for you. You said you kept your BAC? Well i think i might have problem. On the bottom there is a line that runs to the hose in between the turbo and intercooler. Any way i bought a BOV and an BOV flanger adapter, but it doesn't have an opening/nipple for the line. Can i cap it too or is that a no? I'm asking because the line broke from the hose and i don't have a stock BOV.

I'm sorry I'm confused. Sounds like you have a shortage of nipples to run a bac & a bov.

What are you asking if you can cap off?

If you referring to the small vacuum nipple on the bov, it needs to go to a vacuum. I forgot which nipple that I ran it to. I can check and let you know.

I have an S4 (midpipe turbo/intercooler) that is metal and it has 2 pipes coming out. One goes to the BAC and the other can go to a BOV. You can get hose from an auto parts store to replace that hose, I forgot exactly what size it is.

yeah i got a metal midpipe off ebay but it doesn't have any nipples to attach that line. That's my problem. just the flange for a BOV.

will this also work on N/A S4? if not.....link plz

what i want to know is. what did you do about the fuel lines from the fuel rails to the hard lines from the tank? longer lines? and if so where can you get them?

and the coolant line from the TB to the water pump if you remove the bac? also longer?

Not sure about the coolant hose, but just run new fuel lines. It's important to get proper fuel rated hose, which is expensive. I bought 6 feet from a local parts store at $7 a foot. I had a little extra when I was done.

Post #13..........just why would someone run a hose from one secondary injector bleed port to the other??????????? Odd at best. And counterproductive.

Just in case you missed what bostonspgs said, read the above again.

That is a series FOUR intake, not series five (I'm fairly sure of that).

The only VACUUM on that side of the FOUR nipples is the BOTTOM nipple. The larger of the four that are one above the other, is for the oil injectors spider which in turn feeds the top of the oil injectors metered air (as in NOT vacuum).

That BOTTOM nipple on a stk turbo car feeds the waterthermo Valve that in turn controls the outer set of secondary throttle plates to some extent.

Of the other two smaller nipples, either on of them normally feeds the primary fuel injector air bleed and that nipple on a series four turbo car is located right inbetween the two OIL injectors on the intake manifold.

The other small nipple is not used and is capped off on production cars.

A friend mention "earls" online. I googled them and it took me to summit racing where i found "earls super stock" hose. Any opinions about that? It sounded promising.