Leaking fuel?!?!?!?
 

After completing my oil change and tune-up, I started the car and is seemed like it was leaking fuel from the oil pan. I am not sure where the leak is happening, but it is not visible from above. Has anybody had this happen before? What gives?

PJ

the oil pan cannot leak fuel.
what makes you think this? smell? did you actually find liquid gasoline?
many of our cars have flooding problems. have you ruled that out?

do a search for -pulsation damper- if anyone says anything about leaking fuel they need to check into that b/c it is possible that your car could catch on fire

if your car floods at all, your oil will smell like gas

I know it's not from the oil pan... That's where the fuel is drippin from before it hits the ground. The leak is obviously higher up but I haven't pin-pointed it yet. I don't think the car is flooding. It takes about 4 seconds to start, but I'm guessing that's alright. It's definately leaking straight fuel... I put my hand under the leak and cupped some of it. It's fuel alright.

I'm gonna search for threads on pulsation dmapers now...

PJ

my car does the same thing currently....DONT DRIVE IT!!!!!!!!

there are definitely some threads for this. go to the one that is titled "I smell gas...Lots of it" it has the pictures that will show you where to look. but it is a small brass drum looking thing underneath the intake and you can see it without taking any parts out. it has a small screw in the end. and if you start your car and look at it there will "probably" be fuel coming out. it is on the passenger side pointint towards the front.

Justin

Cool, thanks, bro. I actually found the thread when I searched for it. About driving it, it won't happen anyways ' cause I don't have insurance for it yet, and it needs new exhaust components before it'll pass emissions. I'll look at it in the morning.

PJ

i doubt your PD is leaking that much fuel. (im not saying you dont need to check it!) in my opinion, if it is leaking enough for you to catch it with your hand, its probably the crappy rubber fuel lines going to the injector rails. (the clamps on these are crappy too)

on the contrary,

the screw in the center of my pd came out and it spits fuel like a son of a biatch. it is always good to check

Justin

hey pj

I just read your psot on the other thread and the reason mine is coming from the screw hole in the pd is because my screw worked itself loose. in other words i have screw loose:D sorry i couldnt resist the bad pun

it is just a suggestion and i doubt your problem is the same

Justin

With the engine not running, you need to pressurize the fuel rails. Just turning the key to the on position does not do this. You have to jumper a yellow in color electrical connector near the r/h strut tower. It has two wires going to it. It is not connected to a thing. You get a piece of wire and put one end in each socket of the electrical plug. Then turn the key to on. The fuel system is then pressurized and your fuel leak should start to drip. Just keep looking until you spot the source. Don't run the engine at all until you find the leak. Go to http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/Technical_I...ice_manual.htm and download the fuel section and you'll see the above procedure for pressurizing the fuel rails. Worse ocmes to worse, the fuel leak could be under the intake manifold and you'll have to remove it to find the leak.

Be sure to check your PD and the screw coming out or backed off, when the screw comes out or backs off it restricts the fuel going thru the dampner to your injector rail. This restriction could cause backup press to your hoses and if there old and brittle or the clamps are corroded they'll leak to. You need to jump the fuel system and find the leak. If the dampner isn't pissing fuel another indication the screw is out is it will have a hissing sound coming from it. They only piss when the baffle ruptures. Mine wasn't pissing out it was hissing and I could smell fuel. I popped the cover off the screw was just rattling around and you couldn't even blow thru the inlet tube going thru the dampner, once I put the screw back in I had no restriction. I replaced it with a new one from Mazdatrix.com 120.00. Hope this helps, let me know. Gary :)

Yup.. The screw was sitting in the cover. It was hard getting it back in without removing anything. With the little room that I had, I screwed the thing back in, but not as tight as I would have liked. I hope it doesn't come out again any time soon. Thanks, guys.

PJ

That may or may not have been your leak. If it was, it's not fixed. Even w/ the screw out it shouldn't leak fuel. The diaphram is ruptured and you need a new PD or you could JB weld it. My screw was in and I had no leaks but I epoxied over it for insurance. Many people have done this w/ out any problems including me. The concenses seems to be that the rubber fuel lines provide enough flex in the system to "dampen" the fuel pulses as the epoxy won't let the diaphram screw move any more. The screw just limits the travel of the diaphram. If you crank it down you'll surely rupture the rubber diaphram.

If your leaking that much fuel I'd look seriously at all the rubber fuel lines and even the injector o-rings.

Scott

OK, will do. Just to be sure: I can go ahead and cover the screw with JB Weld, right? I will do that.

Peace!

PJ

NO, DON'T JB WELD THE SCREW IN!


-Ted

OK, so which is it? Epoxy over the screw or not? I really don't have time to replace the pulsation damper. I have a Mustang GT waiting for a tranny rebuild and a T-Bird with delayed projects. I may get around to shelling out the ~120 bucks for a new PD, but I don't see myself doing it any time soon.

PJ

Buy a $10 metric banjo bolt and replace the PD.


-Ted

Buy a $10 metric banjo bolt and replace the PD.

ted please explain

Justin

We just went through this on the fc3s.org mailing list.
Someone posted the Earls fitting that replaces the PD with a metric banjo bolt.&nbsp Unbolt the old PD and screw in the new metric banjo bolt - pretty easy.&nbsp Sorry, I don't have the part number with me - maybe someone else does?



-Ted

what the hell is a banjo bolt

It's a bolt that holds brake line banjos (the end of the line) to the calipers. It is hollow to allow the brake fluid into the caliper. Now, if someone could supply the part # for the correct "Earl's" bolt, that would be great. Also, although I know what the PD is, I don't understand how the PD works. This would help me understand the banjo nolt fix. Can someone please explain?

PJ

EAR-807691 from Summit 12mmx1.25 thread.

This would be the preferred way to fix it. With it already leaking I'd definately replace it w/ the banjo bolt. Mine wasn't leaking yet and I tend to keep an eye on things so the epoxy worked for me.

Scott

Amm..All of this is really good info, however; where exactly is this little screw located? I have looked for it but I cannot find it. I am sure it really isn't all that hard to find but I really could just use some help, thanks.

i have the same problem like all of you.. ok does anyone have PICTURES or diagram? maybe it'll help me and others understand better.. ack.. i h8 leaks.

i could still drive with this leak right? ... Is this engine oil?

No, don't drive. It's a fuel leak which usually results in your car spontaneously combusting.

if you want pics go to "i smell gas, lots of it!"

Justin

Take my advice Fdxc... Listen to them, don't do what I did it'll cost you up the a$$ later on.

ok i think i vaguely understand the banjo bolt thing. now can i get one of these things at my local auto parts store?

Justin

I ordered mine today at a local hot rod shop. Shouldn't be too hard to find.

PJ

can i find one in the 2 days i have before i have to drive back to school

Probably...

The place here in town was the first I tried and their computer said they had 4 in stock, but they couldn't find them. So they special ordered one for me. Just write down the part # and pick up the phone book.

PJ

alright i live in a podunk no major aftermarket carparts stores town with Napa, Advanced auto, and a couple others do you still think i can?

hell of a quick response by the way

Justin

A banjo bolt is a special hollow bolt that allows fluid to pass through it.&nbsp I'm not going to try and describe how it looks like, but once you see one you'll understand.&nbsp The banjo bolt works in conjuction with a "banjo fitting" - your fuel lines use them.

The PD leaks gasoline, not oil.

The PD works by damping pulses in the fuel rail.&nbsp Someone (Blake?) has a nice .gif of the whole operation.&nbsp This will also expain why you're not supposed to epoxy the end with the screw in.&nbsp Does anyone have this URL?




-Ted

No don't drive with it leaking check out the threat before this one and you'll see why$$$$$$ This PD has a plastic cap on the front of it and on a 1987 Non-turbo it's located behind the water pump under the dynamic chamber. I thought I saw a pic of one in this forum before. By the way My 87 non-turbo hot starting problem is fixed!!!!!! I'll post it later today. Gary

no one in this piece of $hit town has one on saturday and i have to go back to Savannah tomorrow. so i did a temp fix. i took a self threading bolt and epoxied it in the hole. hopefully i dont blow up

Justin

oops i meant to say the hole in the end of the pd. so the pd still works

Justin

I wouldn't drive it like that even though you've prevented the leak, that screw actually adjusts a diafram of some sort and also allows fuel to pass to your fuel rail to your injectors. Do me a favor when you get your new one blow thru it, then blow thru the old one with the screw out. See if you notice a difference. I believe with the fuel restricted it's gotta be causing some internal damage or potential damage if not fixed. Good luck. Gary

i drove about 5 hrs straight today and i didnt have any problem. i kept the rpms below 3800 so i only supplied the primary injectors with fuel and kept the pressure down. i didnt seem to have any problems. the car ran perfect the whole way. i am gonna get the banjo bolt as soon as possible. unfortunately i have to drive to charleston tomorrow (2 hrs) then drive back. i hate driving it when it isnt completely fixed. but it seems fine (famous last words)

wish me luck,
Justin

Good luck Justin, let me know when you get the fix done. Gary

FD...Is this what you want?? http://home.earthlink.net/~burntoast...iondamper.html

OK, I failed emissions...

I scored 2.05 (1.20 allowable) in CO. At idle, I passed with flying colors- my failure was under a load. Could the PD have anything to do with this problem? I don't think it would, but I'm sure someone else knows for sure.

PJ

Hey PJ, did you ever get to change your PD? Gary

well i drove up to charleston tonight and the pulsation damper is not leaking at all but it feels like my car doesnt want to get gas. if i push on the gas hard it shudders and feels like it is trying to stall. i gan go 100 miles an hour easy but i just cant push the accelerator hard. i think this must be a result of my quick fixed pd. Any ideas, guys?

it is smooth. and drives fine as long as i dont hit the gas hard

Justin

Hey guys, can't find the link that covers his;
Can anyone give me the quick and dirty on why you should't replace your PD with a banjo bolt?

Thanx, Gregg

Justin, change your PD, all you did was plug the hole with a self tapping screw right? The original screw actually pulles the diafram when screwed in and lets fuel flow to your primary injectors. I'm telling you if that screw is out or the right one is not installed you'll get restricted fuel flow thru there. Do me a favor and pull the fuel rail off and see if you can blow thru the PD thru to the injector holes. I know this is some work but it's worth finding out. Gary

Ghebert.. Nope, I haven't gotten the banjo bolt yet. I will go see if they received it tomorrow- first thing in the morning.

PJ

yeah i know,
i really do need to change the pd, it is like 100$ i think and i have to find a place that has them. (i guess i could go to mazda:( ) i really want to upgrade to series 5 fuel rail. that would be ideal. anyone know how much that runs oem and a guestimate from a junkyard?

Justin

Hey Professor RETed,

Is replacing your PD with a banjo bolt good, bad, or a compromise?

Thanx, Gregg

ok, i know this thread is quite old, but i'm having about the same problems. i took the whole uim (upper intake manifold) off, and then i pressurized the system by looping the yellow plug on the pass strut tower, and nothing was leaking. the car only seems to leak when it is idling, and it doesn't do it consistently. when its not leaking, its running really rich and smoke is coming out the tail pipes. but if its leaking, no smoke out the tail pipes. its really pissing me off that i can't find the leak when i'm looking for it:mad: well i guess give me some insight on the whole situation. thanks.