Iron porting attempt 2 pics inside
 

well i felt these ports would have been pretty good if u dident go thru to the coolent area, but know haw far i can go on the next port.. so it just a long learnig experence... but i think a few more tries and i should be really good

Before

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8/DSC03027.jpg

After

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8/DSC03029.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8/DSC03030.jpg

lemme know what u think...

BTW no smoothing has been prformed, in a real port i would smooth it with sanding drums

JB weld it!

hahaha, thats a bad iron anyways, so ill just wont do that one the next one hahahh

crazy ass port... do i have to post my old thread? well here it is lol

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/i-would-like-see-pix-your-port-jobs-435807/

yummy ports

Your after pic looks familiar to me... Aaron Cake knows It better though...:D... Awhile porting always use longer strides and ALWAYS keep the bit moving.

Here Is my first crack at porting - turned out very good

http://www.aaroncake.net/misc/tonypics/048.jpg

holy crap!


those primaries are way too big...

:pity:

(... So by my woes to be nearer, my God, to Thee...)

im using kahrens stage 1 porting template

stage 1?


looks like a 4 port secondary template... :p:

That's the rear secondary plate. Don't you see the bell housing bolt holes and oil filter pedestal?

Both primaries and secondary plates are the same size... pic shows my rear sec plate.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...8/DSC03029.jpg

that is a secondary iron? look again.

thats a pri port not secondary

i know felix :)

Mmmmmmmm, except for its closing angle, that port looks great IMO ^

Those are not before and after pictures are they?

I should have mentioned.

On the left is felix's port.

On the right is Kahren's port, which is what the left should have looked like?

http://gallery.502streetscene.net/da...m/IMG_0025.JPG


mine are also the kahren stage1 ports. here's one of my primaries before i did the smoothing. yours look like a different shape felix

here's a secondary. (i know you have an NA, but your edges still need to be ATLEAST as smooth as these)
http://gallery.502streetscene.net/da...m/IMG_0054.JPG


and make your exhaust look like this

http://gallery.502streetscene.net/da...m/IMG_0021.JPG

Hey jacobcartmill How long did it take you to do the intake port and exhaust port?

probably about 10 minutes with a tub of vaseline. :D

lol, got to pay for it one way or another. But seriously you did the work yourself? It looks like you put some time in to each one.

my newest attempt


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8/DSC03052.jpg

i just sanded and polished it


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8/DSC03069.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8/DSC03068.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8/DSC03067.jpg

tell me what u think on a scale of 1-10 1 bad 10 awseome

truthfully?

4

i wouldn't use them in my rebuilds, the lines need to be smoothed out. the burrs need to be cleaned up and the bowls need to be blended.


keep working at it though, practice makes perfect.

BTW like 10 peeps have asked if i went thru into the coolent area, NO that hole is for the EGR!!!!!!

well if thats a 4 i best keep practicing

remember, its not how big you port it felix, its making the air flow that counts. those ports wil do absolutly nothing for power since i can see you only ported the end of the port. you have to reshape the whole dang ding dong dang port. just think to yourself... hey, would it be better if the air went in a straighter line rather than into a 45 or even 90 degree angle? try to not only ope the port, but simply rehape it. thats the name of the game. what your doing is just making it bigger which in the end, sucks.

i think that is paritaly true, but this is a copy of kahrens port that is making 195 hp at the rear wheels.. so i have to fear wid this port

FWIW: The stock port TIMING is already good enough to do 200 rwhp. Work on airflow. Most of the time on a good port is not spent making it larger. It is spent making it flow better in the area where the port runner makes it's transition to the port window. This is something you can not see with a template. Port size is only half of it. I actually add material in some spots to my ports.

think i should show him the link?

felix its not about cfm's hor how much airflow the port has, its all got to do with velocity. if i was to port my engine, i would look at it, then i would probobly add some stuff ( jbweld ) into the port at the areas where it forces the air to speed up slightly so that you get more air in there for every combustion cycle.

so i would actually only port it slightly in some areas.

yeah man, no offense to Kahren but that port timing is a bit too much for the stock primaries, it looks as though it disrupts the air flow more than even the stock ports. smooth flow not huge ports is what it is about. plug up those damn EGR ports too btw! ;)

it's basically about how you want to setup the motor. huge ports increase top end power, mild smooth flowing ports gain all around power.

of course though someone will come along and totally disagree with me and flame me for it though. :p:

Actually Kahren knows his sh!t really well!

i know he does but what works for someone doesn't necessarily work for everyone.

the port would work but i guess i should take into consideration of what this engine is being built for. all out power?

this engine is being built for streetable power

I remember that.... he was pretty livid. "RIGHT into the water jacket!!"

Have you driven a properly done large streetported car? Come over here and take mine for a spin. We're talking pure torque from 2k rpm on up, stock ports don't have anything (other than emissions, heh) on a street port with large timing but small runners and port bowls.

I agree velocity is VERY important, not all large street ports are just hogged out holes........ you can do a big port with very mild "lift" in piston cam terms.

I'm glad when I get my motor ported I'm sending it to Karack....this shit looks hard! And I suck ass with a dremel :rlaugh:

that's because porting with a dremel sucks ass!

happy port, RB street port, but then i took it up and out a lil bit more..to my likeing, so "mild street port" (left is stock port right is ported on the 6th port pic)

Edit: did it with a dremel, takes a while but it comes out much better and easy for someone that has not done it before

Huh? According to RB's site they don't have a template or a price for service on porting a 6port. All of their porting services or templates say "All rotary Except 6-port" or something to that effect.

Did RB do this themselves or was it with a template? If template you sure it was RB?

keep practicing dustin.... along with keeping velocity in high priority, make sure that everything that you have done is smoothed out. Small points sticking up/out will heat up faster than the rest of the engine and will result in pre-combustion.

Felix, buy some damn templates already! :) Don't freehand for your first (or second) port job. Spend the $50 to buy someone else's experience, as all the vendors have a lot of R&D into their ports. You're into the oil ring area at some minor points. Not enough for it to matter, but it's something to avoid. When porting the primaries, there's no reason to increase the size of the bowl. If you do, you'll just run into the water jacket, and then it's time to bring out the welder...

silverrotor's primaries are just a slight bit larger then mine. Obviously, I don't recommend increasing your primaries that much or you WILL run into the water jacket. You need to heavily taper at the bottom, but not so much at the top. silverrotor's car idles quite nicely, with only a slight lope. Under boost it's pretty strong. :)

He did buy some templates, Kahren stage 1 templates :)

I'd rate it a 3 becasue I'm nice, there is alot of work that needs to be done on the port. It might be cheaper for you to take it somewhere and have it ported.

Dude......

1) I think you need a better Die Grinder Burr...

2) Next time to try it.. get a freakin DEATH GRIP on the die grinder, with BOTH HANDS, find a bench that is just above lap level and go VERY SLOWLY... especially when you get near the trace mark....

I sit there with the air hose running up my back and over my shoulder, left hand on bottom, Right hand on top with my right cheek on my right thumb and eyball down the diegrinder as i go...

Instead of moving my hands, I move my whole upper body... this goes back to my Air-Brushing days... its much easier to get a smooth line if you lock your wrists and arms and move your torso

When i get done with the die grinder part... most people think its already been smoothed.. and I've only ported three motors!!! (I went through a few junk housings first though!!!!)

Keep practicing bud... you'll get it!!

make sure you war a mask and goggles too bro.

WORD.

My uncle got a piece of iron stuck in his eye. And He HAD goggles on. He got it out. And can see fine. But that was after they dug the oxidized rust out of his eye. So be careful.

Damn now I'm going to be paranoid.