interest in Solid Diff-subframe mount??
 

This happened after about 1100 miles and im getting pissed off because its the 2nd one.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...diff-mount.jpg

What i am asking in this thread is, Would anyone be interested in a solid steel mount instead of the POS rubber mount??

I am asking because im getting this done in april and i could get a whole bunch done while im there. Im sure the price would be very minimal and it is a permanent fix to an annoying ass problem.

i might take one depending on price

That happened two 7s ago when I put a racing clutch in. You could save yourself money and hassle and just put in a pinion snubber.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/finally-changed-out-front-diff-mount-164843/

http://www.ponyupgrade.com/files/186...904%20MMPS.jpg

Cost me $15 for two of them. Drilled 1 hole and slapped it in. No fabrication and no more broken diff mounts.

wow, i did not know that part existed. Ur the man

i've been needing to do this, thanks for the link.

actually now that i read it, i still need to have the stock mount. I want to get rid of it and replace the mount completely while having the stiffest mounting possible.

need to be careful with a solid or welded mount,the mount needs the rubber because the diff and shaft move up and down a little during load,with the rubber in place the pieces move in a independent way,if the shaft wants to move down and the diff up it happens thanks to the rubber,now if the mount is welded shut you have no play at all meaning that all pieces are gonna try to move at in the same direction putting more stress and load on the shaft and on the front rear end bearing causing it to fail,it did happened to me twice.

ok i see what u mean, but wouldnt the movement from the stock bushing still put stress on the bearing by allowing it to move?

not that much stress thanks to the rubber,the rubber acts like a dampener it takes most of the loads and vibration,i fixed my problem replacing the mount with the stiffer version,replacing the 2 round bushing that hold the rear end casing in place,stiffer tranny mount and a nice suspension setup.

Your the perfect person to ask then.

I just installed the MMR solid subframe, diff, trans and motor bushings. Should i still use that diff mount or can i get away using just a snubber without the mount?:dunno:

No,you keep the mount and the snubber that way the original mount wont move that much and it wont brake anymore,but it will still move a little in order to keep everything happy.

A little give can be a really good thing, when you start making things out of metal that used to be rubber there are new strains being put on different things.... like the diff itself for example...

dammit! y do u guys have to rain on my parade. What u are saying is really making sense so i guess i have to buy another fucking mount. So be it, if i do it right now i wont have a prob in the future:icon_tup:

You can run a soild front mount ONLY if you run solid diff and subframe mounts as well.

The reason people break the tab off the subframe is because they do not have all the other mounts soild. The deflection from the softer subframe and rear diff bushings stress the solid front diff mount and the tab on the subframe eventually breaks off.

If everything is soild, nothing moves and you have nothing to worry about. You already have all the other MMR soild mounts, you are good to go.

I bought a good used OEM mount for a few bucks from another forum member and welded it up. It has worked great.

ok, well that sounds like the easiest and seems reliable enough. I will try that first and if it doesnt work i will try something else.

When you get it welded, cut off the arm that holds the counter weight. It will be much easier to get the mount in that way.