Has anyone founf an alternative ignition module for the FC leading coil?
I have a MS2 extra that keeps smoking them.

 

My MS2 extra has not smoked one yet. Are you unplugging the coils when you flash the firmware?

 

Yes, But I havn't done a reflash in a while. When i replace the coil it runs for about a half hour then the motor dies and smoke rises from the ign module. It's pretty frustrating.

 

probably be easiest to swap to GM style individual coils if you can't get the Mazda OEM stuff to work

 

Which GM coils? Is there a coil that the factory plug wires match up with?

 

Can you show a diagram of how the MS2 is wired up

For instance, I used the writeup on the DIYautotune website, and wired it up like so:

 

Looks like your using the 3.0 board. I have a 3.57 with the circuits run out the db15 on the other end. I have the 12v power to the tan wires on the coil pack and the trigger wire from the db15 to the red wire. NOW FOR THE BIG QUESTION. WHY DOES DIY SHOW SAY THE THIRD BLACK WIRE GOES TO ENGINE GROUND WHEN IT WOULD PREVENT THE COIL FROM FIRING AT ALL?

This is copied fropm their page.
Function Stock wire color MS2 V3.0 connection MS2 V3.57 connection MS3 / MS3X connection
NE + Red Pin 24 DB37 Pin 24 Main board pin 24
NE - White GND (pin 2 on our harness) GND (pin 2 on our harness) GND (Main board pin 2 on our harness)
G + Green Pin 25 DB15 pin 3 MS3X pin 32 (Cam input)
G - White w/ black stripe Pin 27 DB15 pin 4 Main board GND
Leading coil 12V Tan 12 volt switched power 12 volt switched power 12 volt switched power
Leading coil IGT Red Pin 36 DB15 pin 10 MS3X pin 14 (Spark A)
Leading coil ground Black Engine GND Engine GND Engine GND [/U]
Trailing coil 12V Tan (2 wires) 12 volt switched power 12 volt switched power 12 volt switched power
Trailing coil IGT Red Pin 31 DB15 pin 11 MS3X pin 33 (Spark B)
Trailing coil select White Pin 29 DB15 pin 12 MS3X pin 15 (Spark C)
IGF Yellow Not used by MS Not used by MS Not used by MS
Trailing coil tach signal Black To tach To tach To tach


This is very frustrating indeed

 

You don't have that one connected to ground... do you? That (i believe) would burn up a coil pretty quick.

This question needs to be brought up in the Megasquirt forum here. There's probably someone else that's run in to your issue as well.

 

No I beleive that is there for a tach signal, although DIY clearly doesn't think so. I have already posted this uin the MS forum, no responses yet

 

Have faith, Ken will reply to your topic. He's the MS moderator, and answers 98% of the questions, seeing as he designed so much of it.

Yes, the black wire from the leading coil is actually a tach signal. Although the dash tachometer uses the trailing coil, the one on the leading coil is for an underhood tachometer, probably for troubleshooting.

What are your ignition settings? Take a look about 1/3 of the way down this page:
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/megasquirt/ProgramMS2.asp

I know you're running a v3.57, but the settings should be very similar. I'm thinking if the settings are wrong, you could be overrunning the transistors in the ignitor.

 

Thats part of my issue, DIY says the trigger angle should be Zero and AAron says it should be 60. Which do you use?

 

I am also running the 3.57 board, I use 0, but that won't fry your coil pack, it deals with the cas.

Make sure you have the coil well grounded. is it in the factory position?

Make sure your spark output is set to "going low" (normal) instead of "going high" (inverted).

Check your dwell time.

I only have two connections on my lead coil, Lead trigger and 12v switched, though I think grounding the black fire should not cause it to stop firing, I've accidentally grounded the black wire while using a jumper to sort out some dash tachometer issues and it didn't do anything.

 

Coil is in the factory position, and I have added an etra ground to it. I suppose I could just be getting bad coil packs, (It's a friends car and he keeps bringing me used stuff).
I'll try to talk him into a new one. This should have been such an easy install, but it has been quite a pain.

 

True.

True as well. This not being set right would probably make the car run poorly, but still run.

This was what I was getting at mostly.

Doing that one burned up my coil in a heartbeat. My car didn't even start. As soon as the key turned on, the smoke escaped and I had a hard time trying to get it back in....

 

That's good to know Agreen, I only grounded it momentarily so I guess I was lucky.

As far as the spark polarity, I had issues with my old leading coil getting very hot, Ken suggested that the spark polarity could cause the coilpack to get very hot, but it turns out that it was just a bad coil.

solo, find a coil from a running car and see what happens, instead of shooting in the dark with these unknown used coils