How to. Push starter button for your FC
 

INTRO:
Welcome I'm glad you're interested in a starter button for your car and you will be too. Starter buttons are commonly found in the Honda S2000 and the Dodge Viper. What this method does is deactivates you keyed ignition for being able to start the car. However you must still use your key to turn the cars electrical system over and unlock the steering wheel. The reason we are retaining this is so that it remains difficult to steal your car. This method will not destroy any of the factory wiring or ignition. It is simply a bypass method and allows you to return your car back to fully factory settings.

There are some pics attached to help you. The best way to do this mod is to read through it first. Then get all the stuff you need and follow it step by step and don't question anything or get worried. If you do you will just confuse yourself and make it more complicated.

WHAT YOU SHOULD LOOK FOR:
When you are under the car looking for the wires this can be confusing. you need to locate a batch of wires right under the steering column. All of the wires we are concerned about have black quick disconnects in the middle. There is a group of 2 wires. a BLUE wire and another wire BLACK with WHITE stripe. They are grouped in one quick disconnect. The other group of 2 we are concerned with is a WHITE with RED stripe wire and a BLACK with YELLOW stripe. The last wire we are concerned with is a single BLACK with RED stripe wire. The wires we want are named.
IG2 Black with White stripe
ST Black with Red stripe
12V White with Red stripe
The last thing we are concerned with is the ground. Right in the middle of the column is a Philips head screw holding down a pice of plastic. This will be our grounding point. Note to ground anything here it must be touching metal. This means we have to place our item against the metal behind the plastic trim being held down. This is good because the plastic trim acts as a covering shield for us.

WHAT YOU NEED:
1 switch of your choice "any momentary button will do I used a type R starter button kit in this example"
one 40A 5 dull pole relay "found at auto zone, radio shack, starter button kits"
1 Philips head screw driver
1 sharpie
some masking tape
wire cutters
wire crimpers
some 8GA wire
some 6GA wire
some 12GA wire
3 male non insulated spade connectors
4 non insulated Female spade connectors 8GA
1 non insulated eye hoop connecters 8GA
4 insulated female spade connectors
2 insulated male connectors
2in heat shrink tubing 12GA
2in heat shrink tubing 6GA
soder iron and soder
1 dremel
1 dremel sanding attachment

MOUNTING AND FITMENT:
Remove the center console take it in your work area. Now flip it over and unscrew the white backing panel with your Philips head. Pop out the cigaret lighter. Now take your dremel and as evenly as you can circularly dremel sand away some plastic from the cigaret lighter hole. We have to leave some lip here for the beveled edge of the switch to catch on to or it will fall straight through. Now test fit and dremel as needed until we get a snug fit. If you used a Type R starter switch you will notice it has a ring titener you screw on the back of it. Now screw it snug. give it a few victory pushes!

WIRE AND SWITCH:
If you have a kit you have the wires you need mostly for the switch and relay.
If you don't soder one 12in 12GA wire on the end and heat shrink wrap them is my suggestion or use insulated spade connectors to match the prongs on the switch. Soder one 12in 6GA wire onto the switch and heat shrink wrap them is my suggestion or use insulated spade connectors to match the prongs on the switch. Attach 2 insulated female spade connectors onto the ends. Take some tape wrap it on the spaded end of the wires each separately and write on the tape 12V and on the other wright relay pole #85

WIRE PREP FOR RELAY:
Now take a 12in run of 8GA wire. Put 1 non insulated eye loop connector on and one insulated Female spade connector.
Wrap this in tape and label it relay ground pole #86

Now use two 12in runs of 6GA wire. Terminate the ends with 1 non insulated Male spade connector and 1 insulated Female spade connector.
wrap these in tape and label one of them ST pole #67
and label the other IG2 switch pole #30

Now take one 12in run of 6GA wire.
Terminate one end with insulated Female spade connector and the other with a non insulated Female spade connector.
Label this IG2 Harnes Pole #87A

Wire Harness Replacement Exstentions:
Now take 1 6GA wire 3in run and terminate it with non insulated spade connectors one Female and one Male.
Label this harness replacement 12V to button.

Now take 1 6GA wire 3in run and terminate it with non insulated spade connectors one Female and one Male.
Label this harness replacement Blue.

Now take 6GA wire 3in run and terminate one end with a Male non insulated spade connector.
Take one 6GA wire 12in run and terminate one with a insulated Male spade connector.
Now strip the non terminated ends on the 12in and 3in wire and tie them together.
Now crimp a non insulated female spade connector.
Label the 3in wire 12V harness replacement.
Label the 6in wire 12V to button.

GETTING ACCESS:
Ok we have our harness made and button formed in. Go out to your car open the driver door and move the seat back as far as it will go. Pop the hood and disconnect the negative battery. Go back in the car and look under the steering column u will see a air vent held on with 2 Philips head screws. Unscrew these the vent slightly pops down and pull it towards the door it will slide out of the vent coupler giving u the plastic pice with a vent clipped onto it. If it comes off don't worry it just snaps into place.

Put your center console trim back on and feed the wires over to you or to the steering wheel console.

Wire Prep Ignition: "note after disconnecting these the harness end is the side of the coupler that is not attached to the keyed ignition"
Now the tricky part get on a good angle and lay all up underneath there. you will see a group of wires coupled together with black quick disconnect sleeves.

Look for another group that has a White wire with a Red stripe and a Black wire with a Yellow stripe unplug this and label the White with Red stripe wire 12V.

Take one of your 3in harness patch wire you made and insert it into the Black with yellow stripe to reconnect this half of the harness.

HOOKING UP BUTTON:
Take the harness patch wire you made labeled 12V or to button.
Insert this one into the White with Red stripe use the 3in wire of this group here to patch the harness back together.
Now stertigicaly take the 12in wire from here and plug it into your 6GA wire coming from the button labeled 12V.

RELAY HOOK UP:
We have 5 wires we pre made now. On the labels they should have #'s.
30, 87, 87A, 86, 85
Hook these wires insulated ends to the relay accordingly. "see attached picture"

MOUNTING RELAY:
Look for a good area here to mount the relay by screw or glue such as epoxy or super glue. Plug the wire from the button labeled to relay or pole #85 into the relay pole #85 Make sure all the wires you need are plugged into the relay as you labeled them by pole #'s you should have 5 wires going into the relay and then mount the relay where you decided was best.

INSTALLING RELAY:
Look at the steering column you will see a Philips screw holding down a pice of plastic. Unscrew this and place your 6GA eye looped wire unto here and screw it back down this is our ground for the relay.

Now take the remaining unconnected wires from the relay you labled them IG2 harness and IG2 Switch and ST.

There is a quick connect wire with one wire in it. It is a Black with a Red stripe.
This is our ST ignition wire. Unplug this and label it ST main.
Take the wire from the relay labeled ST and plug it into the harness end of wire you labeled ST main. The harness end has a female connector.

There is a quick connect set with a Blue wire and a Black with White stripe.
This is where our IG2 ignition wire is. Unplug this and label the Black with White stripe wire IG2.
Take a 3in patch wire you made and plug it into the Blue wire reconnecting this half of the harness.
Take the wire from the relay labeled IG2 Harness and plug it into the harness end of the IG2 wire this is the factory Female side.
Take the wire from the relay labeled IG2 Switch and plug it into the other part of the factory harness this has a Male connector.

Tuck everything away nicely. Put back on the air vent cover.

Go plug the negative on the battery back on.
Now put your key in the ignition and turn it to the ON position this is 2 clicks. Push your clutch in and hold the button down until
the car starts up.

broom broom broom.

Smile your done mate.

Ok guys. I gave it one more shot and did the best that I can do. I had someone ells use spellchecker.net and i went over it and over it for errors. I hope its usefull. As for as I can tell its A+ if you have anything to add just let me know. My camera is broke I took the pics I had with my web cam sorry for quality.

Nice, now we have two detailed write-ups for this :)

cant u just wire a switch directltly to the starter?

!!!sticky!!!

Interesting but I guess it's convenient if ignition key and the push switch are located side by side so that you can turn the key and push the swith as one action.

Indeed you can. most macanics have starter buttons to test starters and ignitions.
You can just use a 2 pole relay. run a 12v to your switch and the other prong to the relay and the wires from the starter up to the relay.

However I like to keep all my stuff close buy.

there is one mistake on the lableing

Wire Harness Replacement Exstentions:
Now take 1 6GA wire 3in run and terminate it with non insulated spade connectors one Female and one Male.
Label this harness replacement 12V to button.

The lable should only read
Label this harness replacement

Wouldn't it be much easier, and quicker, just to send 12v to a button and then form the button down to the solenoid? The whole shebang would require perhaps 6 feet of wire and the button, and nothing in the harness would be destroyed, or even touched, and so could be put back to factory spec easily and quickly. I'm confused as to why your method, which is elegant in its application and well thought out, is worth the extra effort. Not being critical, just curious.
???????????????????????

There can be several awnsers.
1. There is no reson you cant. It would require Ither a fuse and a relay to handle the current.
2. If the starter goes bad ive seen it burn evrything up.
3. you dont want to run it to your starter.
4. your key is still enabled. if you do it my way your key wont turn the car over unless you rehook it up for that.

It is all a preferance realy. If you want to keep evrything inside your car or run it outside. There is realy no advantage or disadvantage all a personal preferance. The key I like my key disabled but able to rehook it simply incase of a relay or button failure. As well it can confus alot of friends when they get in your car and try to start it.

However If you do know how to do the starter method it would be a great addition if you posted a how to on that. Just giving fokes more methods of enlightment.

i second that. really good write up. if i wasnt so tired of staring at wires and electronics after work i would acutally do this.

Seems that a lot of people want our threads stickied/archived, IceBlue. I wonder if we could get a mod to combine them, then the folks playing along at home would have one source for either install that they choose :)

What's the point of replacing one easy motion with two seperate motions that require the use of both hands? Why make it more difficult to start your car? Just curious.

what the fuck?

Take a switched 12v (switched by the ign. switch) of sufficient current-carrying capability to operate the solenoid, and send it to one pole of the button. Take the button's other pole and connect it to the solenoid. Done.
Remember, the button is only operating the solenoid. The solenoid operates the starter, so the current requirement for the source, wire, and button is only that of the solenoid. A relay may or may not be necessary, depending upon your 12v source. Obviously, you would disconnect the appropriate wire from the ign. switch, or the button would be redundant. For those not knowledgeable about electricity, don't try this until you're SURE of what you'll be doing. Ask someone who knows to help you. Iceblue's method will work, too, but this will get you there with less parts/effort/time.

RexRyder: the quote you dont want to run it to your starter. Was refering to a prefererance the person doing the mod dose not feel like running it to there starter.

NZConvertible: b/c you think a button is cool and you want to push a button to start your car.

WonkoTheSane: yea pm me and we could do a group write up the meany was to start your car from a button.

the reason for me is because everytime i try to start my car it just clicks, i usually have to turn the key from acc to start about 5-6 times to get it to start. yea i kno its some relay, but i like push button, and if i wire directly to my starter it would take care of this problem.

Perhaps.
or you could replace the relay.
Umm if you search for my previus post on this topic befor i rewrote it. someone has done this and if you PM them I am sure they would be more then happy to help you with it. Personaly I do not know off hand what wires on the starter to use I would have to ask my dad.

I just like pushing a button. I did it 4yrs ago in my miata and for some reson I love presing that button! :-)

nah, its cool.
don worry about it I know which ones.

same here

be careful here though guys--if you just wire a button to the starter, and for some reason the car doesn't start, the starter will keep turning. I know someone who did this on an older Trans Am some years ago. He ended up burning up the starter and killing a new battery.

if ur finger is off the button, then the starter wont spin

Sounds like there's a lot of confusion out there regarding the difference between the starter and the solenoid. You only need to activate the solenoid. The solenoid will then activate the starter. To run the starter directly from the inside of the car, you would have to run cables as thick as the battery cables to your switch.

I'm with you on this one.

that's not to discourage anyone who wants to do this customization. I appreciate the detail of the writeup = ) and wish good luck to whomever does the job.

but the only way I can see a push-button starter actually being cool is if it did everything necessary to crank the car (no key required). worried about stealing then? sure, that's why you incorporate biometrics (fingerprint scanner on the button, retina scanner in the rear view mirror, or both). plus rottweilers.

All of the street cars with a button IE the S2000, Viper, SRT10 truck have a key. The differance is the key only moves 2 notches b/c it dose not have the ability to crank like a normal ignition. Again the key turns the ACC and the ON for the car or you could say the electronics to run the car and the button simply turns the starter if the key is on the on position. If you run it to the starter it can crank at any time you press the button. The above is my method of choice. Some people prefer nikey some rebock but in the end they all do the same thing.

Biometrics that might be something I would do. however it will be exspencive. If I ever do it in my race car b/c it has a lap top built into it I will post it and post hte compiled code for the computer.

If there is any other programmers out there who would try tackaling it. Wire some code for a UrU Personal scanner or any other scanner of your choice and use a rs232 or usb port as a signal and send the signal to a relay if you pass the scann this turning the ACC or ON on in the car. I doubt I will get around to it but you never know.

I had to print my own writeup to do this to the 7 im working on right now so I decided to giv it a little bump

post a video of you starting the car thatd be hott!!!

get the pivot, it's plug and play almost with your turbo timer harness :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...C/DSC06764.jpg

lol @ biometrics.. i didnt have a choice to put in my starter button, so dont flame me for that.. but i hooked mine straight up to the starter.. super easy, then you run the wire into your car through the shifter hole(technical term right there) and the place i put the button is where the cigerette light is.. just take off your radio sorround and unscrew/break off the lighter. then screw your button in right there.. i did have a problem with my starter tho. i dont think it was because of the button tho (cold starts are a b*tch for me =\ ).

you know... no one would EVER suspect that start button being there....


IF IT DIDN'T HAVE THE WORDS "ENGINE START" ON THE DAMNED THING!

paint it black and no one will ever notice it! that way, it can be a security feature and a good one at that.

Hm. What if we use our cigarette lighter? :-P

I mean... I have to plug my inverter & radar detector in *somewhere*!

-=Russ=-

lol You havent hard wired thows in? I place my radar jammer at the top left of the window and run the wire down the inside of A frame. Inverter hard wired to.

Pics /vid you say. I may be able to fees this finaly I am going with my grandma to get her a digital camera so I would imagin I could take some pics that day with it.

picked up the security starter so it's cool...

http://www.the-pivot.co.jp/product/starter/ssk-e.html

sweat feature

how much was it?

Here's what I want to have: Remote key location. I will leave the current ignition on the steering column, but only to lock the wheel. The actual keyed switch for turning on the electrical system will be hidden somewhere else in the car. Take that, thieves!

You mean somewhere you can easily reach from the driver's seat, yet a location no thief would ever think to look. Where would that be exactly?

Did we really need another thread on this???? Is not the one in the archive and the 20 others enough.

I guess the ricers decided there was not enough threads on this:(

how many theives actually "hot wire" a car? They usually break the ign mechanicism(sp?) and crank the car like usual, that relieves the problem of the ign lock.

Actually, what I was thinking was to put the actual keyed ignition switch where the cigarette lighter is, and mount the key to the knob of the cigarette lighter. Just push it in and turn it.

IceMark I wrote this in 03-03-05 at that point there was no writeup in the archives. This one just got dug back up when someone was posting ?'s about this.

this isnt 'another thread' icemark, just the revival of an old one.

why modify a car at all ... why dont we all just drive kia rio's :D

just fuckin with ya, imo it gives a car a more euro sport car feel. I think that the write-ups where very well done (good job guys) hopefully i'll be able to install one on my car soon.

btw i had a friend that had his key snap when he went to start his car (but i have a strange feeling thats not a common problem :wallbash:

I had to rescue my girls FC one time b/c she broke the key in the door. Anyhow this thread needs to go I need to redo it. There is a flaw in its design unless you use 2 relays and I came up with a much betor design that acts like a built in fuel cut unflooder for S4's.

hmmm have you posted that yet??? i found 2 relays that i think will work (i think they say 30-40a)

No I have not rewrote it. Maybe in a few weeks.

You need two 30a 4pole relays identical to the photos provided. Wonkothesane has a two relay writeup if you want to try and figure out yourself what changes need to be made to keep the keyd ignition working proporly have at it.

id just get a removable steering wheel so then you can do away with the column-mount ignition. Move the ignition to the dash and put the button under the little panel next to the security light. Press it and it flips up, revealing the infamous 'little red button'. if im not mistaken the F1 has a setup like this. and lets face it: the F1 is just plain cool

Here is my push button start..

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...7/aaf11429.jpg

Though it was out of necessity, not really done on purpose. My ignition switch was going out, so instead of getting a new ignition, I jsut rewired the starter solenoid. It gets its power from teh cigarette lighter, with no relay

Or a fuse. Good job you will soon burn your button up leaving you stranded and or catch your car on fire.

Well, its a 30A switch, so if anything goes it will be the wiring. How many amps does the solenoid pull? Anyway, i noticed with the new setup, the starter motor turns a lot faster than it used too

Hi can you please help me with more elaborate pictures. You can e-mail it to me at esjoson1126@yahoo.com. Thanks I will greatly appreciate your help.

Thanks,
EJO

Push Button starter
 

Can anybody please post a more simplified push button starter with pictures.